A good all around blade

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Hello guys I am looking to slow down my game to develop my technique. I read using a 5 ply wood blade would be good. Some recommend the Korbel blade but I think (might be wrong) it is to old and there should be better blades in the market. I like the stiga nostalgic but can you give an advise? Thanks in advance.
 
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Just to clarify I am intermediate player but I still need to create awareness of my strokes and develop my technique.
 
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Nostalgic is quite a beast, imho. An updated Clipper, quite demanding/unforgiving - but powerful. It may not be what @OP seeks.

"Slow down to focus on technique" does suggest a Korbel to me, for limba lovers at least. A Xiom Offensive S would do equally well, probably, in that case; I prefer its handle, and it's quite affordable to boot.

Now I'm not a limba guy (or gal) and would prefer the Yasaka Sweden Extra. A yummy control machine.
 
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Stiga All Round Classic.

I hate that blade. Smallest sweet spot of any blade. (Which makes sense since it’s from the 1960s). Even a $10 Chinese blade is much better.

Get a more modern Allround blade like the Stiga Allround Evolution or Stiga Azalea Allround.

(The 1960s are over. Allround Classic and Mark V rubber do not perform well with the 40+ ball. Azalea with 2.0mm Xiom Vega Intro is the modern beginner / control setup )
 
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I hate that blade. Smallest sweet spot of any blade. (Which makes sense since it’s from the 1960s). Even a $10 Chinese blade is much better.
You really should talk to the Captain and tell him why he loses his matches.

Get a more modern Allround blade like the Stiga Allround Evolution or Stiga Azalea Allround.
Really? When I started table tennis around 1992, the Allround Evolution was already on the market. So it really is a modern allround blade.

(The 1960s are over. Allround Classic and Mark V rubber do not perform well with the 40+ ball. Azalea with 2.0mm Xiom Vega Intro is the modern beginner / control setup )
You should really talk to the winner of the singles championship from Hamburg and tell him that it's normal to lose 3 sets in the finals with his material. He is playing Mark V and Donic Vario without boosting. (Kai-Enno is the tall guy with the blue shirt)

I have one and I can confirm it is old. There are way more modern woods nowadays.
There is no "old" or new, Korbel is a classic blade which will be played forever.
Korbel is also not an allround blade. It is an OFF blade and I would recommend either Primorac or maybe Persson Powerallround if you want a faster allround/slow offensive minus variant.
There are so many great All+ blades like Tibhar IV-L, Stiga Allround Classic, Donic Applegren Allplay...
 
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You really should talk to the Captain and tell him why he loses his matches.


Really? When I started table tennis around 1992, the Allround Evolution was already on the market. So it really is a modern allround blade.


You should really talk to the winner of the singles championship from Hamburg and tell him that it's normal to lose 3 sets in the finals with his material. He is playing Mark V and Donic Vario without boosting. (Kai-Enno is the tall guy with the blue shirt)


There is no "old" or new, Korbel is a classic blade which will be played forever.
Korbel is also not an allround blade. It is an OFF blade and I would recommend either Primorac or maybe Persson Powerallround if you want a faster allround/slow offensive minus variant.
There are so many great All+ blades like Tibhar IV-L, Stiga Allround Classic, Donic Applegren Allplay...

A good player can with with a crappy blade. I can even win a lot of matches with the classic. But why use it when there are better choices? If modern blades have the same control but with a bigger sweet spot, then why not use the better product?

I made the mistake of using the classic when I was a beginner. After I switched to a $10 Chinese Allround blade I noticed that the sweet spot was bigger and therefore more forgiving.

The evolution from 1992 is a lot more modern than the 1967 classic. Azalea is probably the best choice.

And Mark V doesn’t generate as much spin as other modern “control” rubbers. Same point. Ditch the inferior 1960s products because there are better choices available in 2020 for the same price or less.
 
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Ok. I will give a little more generic answer. There is a link between the sound blade make (it's pitch specifically) and blade's speed.

https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1tnzuhP98Iwl3_ZYIKs770Z4GeEXB1cPaF6xXC3IMLfg/edit#gid=0

Go on that google sheet and find a blade with "frequency" around 1150-1200 from a brand you like. There is sky high propability it will be either faster All+ or Off-. You can ask here wether it is really bad, look at your club and try it or whatever process you do before buying.

My answer will be rather dissapointing but gear does not matter as much as your skill using it. Gear still have some to say, but imho skill is more important (maybe excluding the cheapest premades).
 
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A good player can with with a crappy blade. I can even win a lot of matches with the classic. But why use it when there are better choices? If modern blades have the same control but with a bigger sweet spot, then why not use the better product?
What do you mean with "bigger sweet spot"?
https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/fo...et-spot-really&p=285789&viewfull=1#post285789
I made the mistake of using the classic when I was a beginner. After I switched to a $10 Chinese Allround blade I noticed that the sweet spot was bigger and therefore more forgiving.
I don't think that the sweet spot was bigger but the blade was just better for you overall. It also doesn't mean that a 10$ chinese allround blade is always the better choice for the threadstarter. Throwing more or less everything out of the window just because you made some experience is a little "difficult".
The evolution from 1992 is a lot more modern than the 1967 classic.
The Evolution should be something around 80s.
Azalea is probably the best choice.
Might be but also every other blade within the All-All+ range.
And Mark V doesn’t generate as much spin as other modern “control” rubbers. Same point. Ditch the inferior 1960s products because there are better choices available in 2020 for the same price or less.
What do you mean with "spin"? To be honest, if we talk about getting as much rotation as possible into the ball, classic rubbers might be even superior to modern rubbers. When I was young and switching from normal to speed glue, I was less susceptible to rotation and was inflicting also less rotation. The "bouncier" the rubber the shorter the dwell time on the rubber. Rubbers which generated the highest amount of spin were something like the Tackiness C, a really slow rubber with nearly no catapult.
 
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So with all this discussion I would choose between stiga azalea all around and Butterfly Korbel. What do you think I usually play aggressive but I need to learn how to chop and block more.
 
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One thing that would be useful to know is what you are currently using. If we knew that, it is easier to recommend a suitable replacement that would be somewhat slower but not too much slower.

But Korbel is still a great blade these days. It is a blade that there are pros who use still. So, the design seems to have withstood the test of time. Still, there are lots of different blades that might be suitable.
 
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One thing that would be useful to know is what you are currently using. If we knew that, it is easier to recommend a suitable replacement that would be somewhat slower but not too much slower.

But Korbel is still a great blade these days. It is a blade that there are pros who use still. So, the design seems to have withstood the test of time. Still, there are lots of different blades that might be suitable.

I use andro Treiber FO with tenergy 05 FH and Joola Ryzhym tech BH. My only streegh in my game is my FH loop and counter. I need to diversify my game and learn how to block and chop or have a more consistent Bh loop. I was thinking base in all this discussion to buy the xiom all around S rasanter 47 fh and rasanter 42 (1.7) Bh
 
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