Innerforce Layer ALC blade compared with ZLF version

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There is confusion on thickness of rubber for a lot of people. I consistently hear people say that thicker rubber is faster and harder to control.

On the faster part: thinner sponge can be shown to be faster on direct contact. There are videos that clearly show this to be the case. The sponge dampens contact. Less sponge causes a faster shot than more sponge. This is simple physics.

Thinner sponge is easier to control if you are making direct contact. But not if you are spinning the ball.

Thicker sponge is actually slightly slower. It is harder to control in direct contact because the rebound of the sponge makes how the ball comes out less predictable. But thicker sponge makes it so you can let the ball penetrate deeper into the sponge before it hits the wood. If you are making spin contact (tangential--which is sort of the opposite of direct contact) you will get more spin with the thicker sponge. And the rebound of the sponge and topsheet will not cause the ball projecting out to be less controllable because of the tangential contact and how the topsheet grabs.

Since on offensive topspin shots, you control the shot with the amount of spin, the thicker sponge makes it easier to control shots with heavy spin because it makes it easier to create that spin. This also makes it so, on those kinds of heavy spin shots--which in table tennis are called loops--you can swing with more force and not bottom out and still spin the ball.

So, you might get a faster shot when spinning the ball with a thicker sponge. But that is not because the thicker sponge makes the rubber faster. It is because, provided your contact is tangential (brush contact) you can put more power into the shot.

So, for someone who is mostly looping or making spin contact on all shots, it is actually easier to control a shot with a thicker sponge.

Therefore, if you are sort of hearing a harsh, sharp, high pitched sound on contact, from the wood, then thinner rubbers will be easier for you to use in general. If you are hearing a more muted, soft sound, [or, very high level players with powerful impact hear a popping sound like a cork that is not as high pitched as the sound from the wood], then you will be better off with max thickness.

The corking sound, is actually the sound of the rebound of the topsheet, almost like the sound made when you crack a whip or pop a cork out of a champagne bottle. The sound is actually caused by how fast the rubber moves, after it has been stretched and distorted by the ball contact when the rubber rebounds to its original shape. Likely, you are not getting this sound as it takes high level technique and considerable force on impact to stretch the topsheet that far sideways to get the pop. So if you hear "crack", probably you are hitting the wood. You can still spin if you hit the wood. But not nearly as much. And if you hit the wood and spin, I would call that a drive loop rather than a loop.

One more detail on this, if you really want to make over the table BH loops, you need to not hit the wood for the shot to be consistent.

So, based on what you want, I would get the max. Even if what you are doing and what you want to be doing are not yet the same.

A decently high level player can spin the ball with either thick or thinner. But thicker helps you learn NOT TO contact the wood when you want that spin. So, that may also have to do with why you are having trouble with openings. That and the thick balsa blade would be a bad combination for learning over the table loops. (BH flips are over the table loops--FH flips can be loop or direct contact).

Why Tenergy, for what you are saying you want, nothing is really as good.

Why do I use MXP and FXP. They are good enough and I can get 4 sheets (2 MXP and 2 FXP) for the price of 2 Tenergy. And MXP/FXP are good enough; slightly faster, slightly less spin. I would take the extra spin. But I would rather the extra $$$. :)

Also, what makes Tenergy unique, there are other rubbers that get as much spin. There are other rubbers that get as much speed. No rubber has a sponge anywhere near as good as the Tenergy sponge. And it helps you feel the ball better than any ESPN sponge. So, if price were not a consideration, I would get Tenergy. I actually may get Tenergy next time I buy because I am starting to need new rubbers.

Why the OSP Virtuoso Plus? I have tried a lot of blades. There was a point where I was using a Timo Boll ZLF. Now, that blade was really great. I still have it. I got it from a friend who was sponsored by Butterfly. But one day I tried a friends blade (it is always good to take a few hits with someone else's setup to see how it feels) and he had an all wood blade and I realized how much I missed that all wood feeling.

I tried a bunch of different things. But the blade I am using now, I just never wanted to put it down or try anything else after. It may not be good for everyone. But it is perfect for me. So.....that is why I use the V+.

How refreshing to get such a logical explanation regarding the characteristics of less or more sponge thickness. I have asked this question of suppliers on a few occasions and have simply received the stock answer, as you have stated, that thicker sponge is faster and harder to control and I have been dissuaded from ordering the thicker versions. I knew that there was more to it along the lines that you have explained although my thoughts were simply that a thinner sponge would allow the ball to bottom out more easily and therefore potentially go long off the end of the table. Everyone should read you post, including suppliers.
I am interested in your comments on your current setup and also that you once used the TBZLF blade. That must have been significantly faster and have less control than the Virtuoso I would have thought.
I believe that you have been instrumental in helping me make up my mind on the direction that I am going to take. It is coincidental that it was exactly what my thoughts were initially but without the in-depth knowledge that you have applied to reach that conclusion.
I had been waiting to see if prices might drop due to the lockdown but this seems unlikely so I will place my order as soon as there is the likelihood that we can resume play.
If you are in agreement, I would like to keep in touch occasionally to let you know how it is going. Is there a way we can do this outside the forum?
By the way; why UpSideDown?

Best regards
 
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By the way; why UpSideDown?

I teach yoga. I used to skate vert ramps in competitions and then in the circus. So, some people say it is because I have spent so much time UpSideDown.

Mute Invert.jpg

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Handstand In Sheep's Meadow.jpg

Handstand with Legs Parallel to the Ground.jpg

Handstand Split Side View.jpg

But I think it is because I see things UpSideDown and BackWards and that gives me a clearer perspective. :) Note, I told you almost the opposite of what everyone says about thick and thin sponge. But....seeing it from a unique angle, my answer is more complete....because it us UpSideDown, it is really RightSideUP. Plus, when people try and turn it into an Acronym (USDC or USDCarl) then it is clear I have a currency named after me. :)
 
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I am interested in your comments on your current setup and also that you once used the TBZLF blade. That must have been significantly faster and have less control than the Virtuoso I would have thought.

First: My OSP Virtuoso Plus is about 92 grams. The result is, it is not noticeably slower than the TB ZLF was. It might be a little slower. I no longer can really remember. But, man, nothing feels as good to me as this blade.

I do not need any more speed than this blade. But, truthfully, I don't need any more speed than a Stiga Allround Evolution either. I can make nasty shots with spin and pace with any blade. Because that is much more about technique than equipment. Which is also why, a younger player, who is developing, who could be using legs and hips but isn't because he is using a blade that is so fast that he has to cut down his stroke to get the ball on the table, is slowing the pace at which he will develop good technique. A slower blade will force you to learn how to use your legs, hips, core rotation, weight transfer TIMED WITH THE WHIP OF the forearm and wrist.

The key part is in capitals. You don't need a lot of force. You just have to pop the timing of legs, hips, weight transfer, core rotation with the whip of the arm and the contact of the ball. When you do this you can make powerful shots very efficiently. It is more about everything being timed and coordinated. Rather than it being brute force. And when you do that, the power comes right from the ground up.

Then the other thing, if you are really spinning the ball, you are not really using the blade so much for speed; you are not even letting the ball compress the sponge enough to touch the wood. Instead you are using the stretch and distortion of the topsheet and how it rebounds, so you are using the rubber; not the blade. And when you do that, a blade that seemed slow, will still produce shots that are quite fast.

That TB ZLF feels really good. I love that blade. I really like the feeling of Zylon without the carbon.

Zylon is a soft material almost like plastic. Really, closer to a polyester. Very similar to Kevlar. They used to make bullet proof vests from Zylon too but they found that after a certain number of years, the material changed and stopped being bullet proof. So, not as good for a bullet proof vest. And, that soft material that has some rebound to it, helps you hold the ball on the blade face and then rebounds to help propel the ball out. Which means you can generate a heck of a lot of spin if you know how to use it.

But on an inner layer, when the composite material is deeper, Zylon without the Carbon is actually a bit of a waste of time. Because when it is alone and deeper, it can't really do what I just described to anywhere near the same extent as it can when it is next to a thin top ply. That is why I said, not to get the IFL ZLF. But I didn't feel like explaining it. Too many words.

So the TB ZLF is amazing for spinning the ball. However, the Koto top ply is hard and I like the soft feel of Limba better. And Zylon, like most composite materials dampens the feeling of the best vibrations from the wood. So the feel of the wood and the ball contact feel muted compared to a good all wood blade. Which is why, that day, which I already described in a previous post, where I tried my friend's all wood blade, I realized how much I missed the feeling of an all wood blade. And how good LIMBA feels to my hand.

I have lots of blades. I have about 20-25 blades. More than enough. I have given a bunch of blades away too. Since I started using the V+ I have not really bothered trying anything else. Nothing is as good, at least not for me.

I name my blades. My Clipper that was 95 grams, (wow was that a beast), was "The Death Stick". The ZLF was "The Wand of Destiny"; I never thought I would switch from that one. (Those are both wands from Harry Potter). :) The black tag Viscaria that I had that I sold to Anno Van Doorn from MyTT (some people will kill me for the fact that I sold a black tag Viscaria for $70.00 but Anno liked the blade and I didn't need it, so I was happy for it to be in the hands of someone who liked it) that blade was really a beast and it was called "Mjolnir", that is the name of Thor's Hammer.

Now, in Harry Potter his wand is a regular old wand. But he likes it. And it works for him. And it has special powers, but only against Voldemort. His wand is made of Holly and Phoenix Feather. In the last book the Holly and Phoenix Feather wand is broken and he needs a new wand. In the end, he ends up with the Death Stick, also known as The Wand of Destiny and also known as The Elder Wand. That is the most powerful wand in history and the true owner of the wand cannot be beaten in a fair wizarding duel. So, Harry ends up with the Death Stick, and decides he doesn't like it. So he uses that most powerful wand to fix his broken Holly and Phoenix Feather wand. And then puts the Death Stick in Dumbledore's tomb. In other words, he chose a wand that was less powerful because he liked it more. :)

So, the Virtuoso Plus is named: "Holly and Phoenix Feather".

Maybe my story there makes why I use the blade make some sense. :) Either that, or I just like telling stories. :)
 
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I have the innerforce ALC tenergy 05 on th and goldarc 8 bh and i must say it's a treat to play with it.
Thank you Servet, good to know. I am not aware of Goldarc 8 but on looking it up it appears to get very good reviews and many users. It would appear faster than T05FX but similar to T05. How do you compare it to both of those as you must have tried T05FX or made a conscious decision to use Goldarc instead?
 
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I teach yoga. I used to skate vert ramps in competitions and then in the circus. So, some people say it is because I have spent so much time UpSideDown.

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But I think it is because I see things UpSideDown and BackWards and that gives me a clearer perspective. :) Note, I told you almost the opposite of what everyone says about thick and thin sponge. But....seeing it from a unique angle, my answer is more complete....because it us UpSideDown, it is really RightSideUP. Plus, when people try and turn it into an Acronym (USDC or USDCarl) then it is clear I have a currency named after me. :)
Brilliant concepts for the UpSideDown name; either way. Great pictures too. I guess that you must be in great shape with your teaching.
 
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Thank you Servet, good to know. I am not aware of Goldarc 8 but on looking it up it appears to get very good reviews and many users. It would appear faster than T05FX but similar to T05. How do you compare it to both of those as you must have tried T05FX or made a conscious decision to use Goldarc instead?

The goldarc 8 compared to tenergy 05 has less how to say it life on it's own.It doesn't have the catapult effect like tenergy but has a better feeling and for me it grabs the ball better.I compared them using on fh and bh and i was amazed how good it was on both sides.On passive shots or in the short game for me goldarc 8 worked better.It has better control than tenergy 05.Speed is almost like tenergy.When you hit the ball harder it is a treat i must say.It lasts long and doesn't loose it's properties even after 3 months playing with it (3-4 times a week 2hrs) ofc you need to keep it clean.I must say it's the 47.5 version in MAX (2.1mm).
I ordered one more sheet and I think i will play it on bh,because i can change the direction of the ball so easy with it and i like to try the victas v15 extra on fh based of some reviews.All in all there are fields where for me the goldarc 8 was better than the tenergy 05,but I can say that this combination of blade and rubbers worked wonders for me (it elevated my game in so many aspects).Hope this helps a bit.Greetings!
 
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I don't know what happened to the text from my reply but I remarked on how good the pictures were and also how interesting both the reasons behind the UpSideDown part of your name are.
I assume that you are pretty well toned with your teaching and that must assist you in your TT significantly.
 
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I don't know what happened to the text from my reply but I remarked on how good the pictures were and also how interesting both the reasons behind the UpSideDown part of your name are.
I assume that you are pretty well toned with your teaching and that must assist you in your TT significantly.

I am a bit older than in those photos. The skate photos were 25 years ago, back in my 30s. :)

But for my age, I am in decent shape and definitely I move like I am younger.

Glad you liked my explanation of UpSideDown & BackWards sometimes being RightSideUp. :)
 
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The goldarc 8 compared to tenergy 05 has less how to say it life on it's own.It doesn't have the catapult effect like tenergy but has a better feeling and for me it grabs the ball better.I compared them using on fh and bh and i was amazed how good it was on both sides.On passive shots or in the short game for me goldarc 8 worked better.It has better control than tenergy 05.Speed is almost like tenergy.When you hit the ball harder it is a treat i must say.It lasts long and doesn't loose it's properties even after 3 months playing with it (3-4 times a week 2hrs) ofc you need to keep it clean.I must say it's the 47.5 version in MAX (2.1mm).
I ordered one more sheet and I think i will play it on bh,because i can change the direction of the ball so easy with it and i like to try the victas v15 extra on fh based of some reviews.All in all there are fields where for me the goldarc 8 was better than the tenergy 05,but I can say that this combination of blade and rubbers worked wonders for me (it elevated my game in so many aspects).Hope this helps a bit.Greetings!
Thanks Servet. It is not a rubber that I knew anything about until your post. Certainly one to consider it seems.
Best regards
 
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A lot of controversy here... XD Anyway,
FX-P is awesome close to the table, good control, good spin, just lacks the higher speed-gear of the other high end rubbers, but you don't need that for your game so it's perfect.
Actually, Emmanuel Lebesson a pro french player, used it on both sides before, now on bh only. And he uses an all wood blade that is even slower than innerforce alc... around innerforce zlf speed



You know what rubber he is using on FH now?
 
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You know what rubber he is using on FH now?

Red Joola Rhyzer Pro 45? I noticed, but nothing I have experience with. Medium-hard sponge, good spin. Probably faster than FX-P, that's about it. I heard it's better at a couple of steps back from the table.
Probs comparable with Evolution EL-P.

Joola Ryzer Pro 43 (bh) is a different discussion. all in all I can't differentiate it much (on paper) from FX-P without trying it.
Hence it's probably a good ref point for FX-P.
 
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A lot of controversy here... XD Anyway,
FX-P is awesome close to the table, good control, good spin, just lacks the higher speed-gear of the other high end rubbers, but you don't need that for your game so it's perfect.
Actually, Emmanuel Lebesson a pro french player, used it on both sides before, now on bh only. And he uses an all wood blade that is even slower than innerforce alc... around innerforce zlf speed
That last point was actually hillarious btw. ALmost ANYONE would back of the table to lob... but not Lebesson. XD

Anyway, among those blades, I'd say please forget about fang bo carbon and Long 5, they're fasssst. and close to the table you don't want it to be that fast... If I were you, I'd go with the Innerforce Layer ALC. (with FX-P both sides) As Zlf might be slower than what you bargained for.

How does FX-S compare with FX-P please?
 
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UpSideDownCarl said:
I am a bit older than in those photos. The skate photos were 25 years ago, back in my 30s. :)

But for my age, I am in decent shape and definitely I move like I am younger... :)

I remember when Carl took me and PingPongHolic to Robert Chen's basement TT club one late night around midnight. Robert Chen was prolly in his 50s that night and lamented his footwork... he said he had "The Footwork of an ELEPHANT" That night, the 4 yrs of footwork training I had in Korea still did not crack my thick skull and I wished for such Elephant footwork.

I have improved to the point of Hippo footwork.

Point?

Some footwork is better than none.
 
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Basmundo, I have used both.

FX-P is slower, more controllable and spinnier on the low to medium impacts. On full impacts, it is slower, but very spinny. Still pretty linear of a rubber, a little dynamic, but not full.

FX-S is a modern dynamic soft sponged rubber. Medium pace on slow to medium impacts, extra spin on brush with faster bat and real extra catapult on fast bat half-solid or solid impacts. Real turbo spin gear on big swings - both brush and loopdrive.

If you more solidly impact the ball and are not using MAX swings all the time, you will likely have better control and performance from FX-P, although to top end isn't terrible.

If you like a larger swing or have a real fast bat speed, you will REALLY like the spin (and yes, even pace) you can make with FX-S if you are one who "catches and Throws" the ball, instead of bang into it head on.
 
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Yeah. I think Der may have just listed the rubbers backwards.

FXP has a dynamic sponge with more catapult and it is slightly softer. FXS has a sponge with little catapult. So what you put into it is what you get out of it. It gets excellent spin, but it does not have as many gears as FXP.
 
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