Which Blade to choose

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So i asked a few days ago wich rubbers i should chose for close to table play (dissability on legs, bending knees...).
They told me to go for short pips on the FH.

So this is my choice so far :
fh : Yasaka Razka Po 2.0 and Bh: Tibhar super defence 40 (like to push on bh).

Now is my question wich blade should i take.
This is what i found on the web :

Yasaka ma lin extra off (my favorite i think)
Avalon p700
Joola Viva
Stiga Clipper
Tibhar force pro black edition

Im searching now 3 days and i'm clueless :)
 
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Is it conventional wisdom that a 7 ply is well suited to close to the table disruptive/ blocking play with short pips on the forehand? Honestly don't know but just assumed that a seven ply is more suited to further away from the table aggressive play?
 
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If you're just starting to play table tennis, or you've developed an all-round, counter-attacking style of play, look for a blade that is categorised as Allround. These blades will consist of hard inner plys of wood, with softer outer plys. It'll be a medium speed blade and it'll help you to control the ball.
 
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You guys should read what Jurgen has said about how he plays and why he was recommended short pips.

I'm a intermediate player and thinking about new rubbers.
I read a lot about hardness, spin, trowing angle..... But I can't chose

I have a disability on my legs so i play close to the table. Cant bent good my knees so topsin is hard for me.
I like to push on the BH and dont attack often, on the fh i attack non spinny bals

I play with accoustic and bh : razka soft and fh: T05

Anybody any suggestions for me ?

I think the Acoustic would be fine for the new rubbers.

But I also think any of the blades in your list would be fine. The one that would be last on my list is the Ma Lin Extra because of how hard the top ply is. But it still might be fine for you. But I would just keep the Acoustic if you were going to get the Ma Lin Extra.

Also, Jurgen, I edited the title so that "Which" was spelled correctly. :)
 
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I had a team mate with the same disability as you. He couldn't bend his legs so he played in a very upright position and moved very little.

He had a push blocking style of play, blocking with the BH and attacking with the FH. He used an Joola Chen Defender blade with a softyish offensive rubber on the FH and Long Pips on the BH. This setup worked really well for him.
 
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You guys should read what Jurgen has said about how he plays and why he was recommended short pips.



I think the Acoustic would be fine for the new rubbers.

But I also think any of the blades in your list would be fine. The one that would be last on my list is the Ma Lin Extra because of how hard the top ply is. But it still might be fine for you. But I would just keep the Acoustic if you were going to get the Ma Lin Extra.

Also, Jurgen, I edited the title so that "Which" was spelled correctly. :)

The problem is my Accousic has been broken a little bit at the top. can glue it i think, but i'm gonna use it as my back up blade.
I'm also thinking when short pips doesn't work for me which blade is the best for inverted rubber that suits my position at the table. Can t generate much spin on the fh, with that in mind.

On the web they say, use stiff blade but Falck is not playing with a stiff one ???? so i'm more confused.

I have also a Defplay senso blade and that feels so slow that i am scared to buy a allround blade because of the lack of speed. All blades sounds like if u don't have a style of playing just for everybody.

One thing the accoustic is great in is in blocking.

Sorry for the bad english ;-)
 
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I had a team mate with the same disability as you. He couldn't bend his legs so he played in a very upright position and moved very little.

He had a push blocking style of play, blocking with the BH and attacking with the FH. He used an Joola Chen Defender blade with a softyish offensive rubber on the FH and Long Pips on the BH. This setup worked really well for him.

I have done long pips but it doesn't work for me. Had a defensive blade, also not my thing.
Thanks for the suggestion.
 
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I have played the Tibhar force black. Great blade. Better construction quality than Stiga Clipper. If the black edition is too hard, Tibhar has a force blue edition which has a softer feel, yet with 7-ply speed.
Thanks,

What's the antvantage and disadvantage of hard or softer blade ?
 
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Jurgen, you don't need a slow blade. That was my point in telling people they should know what is going on with you and how you play.

If the Acoustic has a small amount of damage at the top it should not affect how it plays. Can you show the damage on the blade in a photo?

Any of the blades in your list would be fine. Another Acoustic would also be good. Don't get an All or All+ blade. The blade speed you are looking at will be fine. Just choose one of the blades on your list. The 7 ply blades are closer than most people realize. So, just choose one.

Acoustic
Avalox P700
Clipper
Viva
Force Pro Black
Force Pro Blue

Any of them will be fine for you. Whichever one you choose you will get used to because they are all in the right ballpark for what you need.
 
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Jurgen, you don't need a slow blade. That was my point in telling people they should know what is going on with you and how you play.

If the Acoustic has a small amount of damage at the top it should not affect how it plays. Can you show the damage on the blade in a photo?

Any of the blades in your list would be fine. Another Acoustic would also be good. Don't get an All or All+ blade. The blade speed you are looking at will be fine. Just choose one of the blades on your list. The 7 ply blades are closer than most people realize. So, just choose one.

Acoustic
Avalox P700
Clipper
Viva
Force Pro Black
Force Pro Blue

Any of them will be fine for you. Whichever one you choose you will get used to because they are all in the right ballpark for what you need.
acc.jpg
 
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Think that if you play close to the table you should have a fast, hard blade so the ball leaves the racket fast and in a low arc so you get pressure on the opponent. Do not want to big arc close to the table. Also need pretty fast and hard blade to be able to smash well with short pips. I think i would try the Clipper cr or Maybe yasaka extra special. A hard all wood 7 ply.

I think that you proably will ge som effect from the PO But the grip is not so good. If you use long pimple om the backhand you proably will get som pushes to your forehand. Short pimple is nog good at this ball, But a short pimple with more grip will make it easier for you to generate spin and proably will become safer aswell. I Do think the hardness is good thou. Better with a little softer for more safety.
 
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I’m no wood magician, but from the looks of it I would try to repair the damage by cleaning, gently sanding the tears of the wood ply that’s come loose so it can be refitted smoothly. Then glue it back together under pressure, fill in gaps with wood filler, sand/polish until it feels smooth and even to the touch.

It might not even matter that much for actual play in that spot, but having a loose flap of rubbers, or notable bumps/dents, takes away a bit of confidence.
 
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Think that if you play close to the table you should have a fast, hard blade so the ball leaves the racket fast and in a low arc so you get pressure on the opponent. Do not want to big arc close to the table. Also need pretty fast and hard blade to be able to smash well with short pips. I think i would try the Clipper cr or Maybe yasaka extra special. A hard all wood 7 ply.

I think that you proably will ge som effect from the PO But the grip is not so good. If you use long pimple om the backhand you proably will get som pushes to your forehand. Short pimple is nog good at this ball, But a short pimple with more grip will make it easier for you to generate spin and proably will become safer aswell. I Do think the hardness is good thou. Better with a little softer for more safety.
So Yasaka po isn't good ?
Just want to have less spin effect of the opponent when I hit with my forehand. That's the reason I try short pips. It's because I can't generate enough topspin on soft backspin ball of my opponent to lift him over the net with inverted on fh.

Any other short pips options ?

Play inverted on the bh : super defence 40.
 
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So Yasaka po isn't good ?
Just want to have less spin effect of the opponent when I hit with my forehand. That's the reason I try short pips. It's because I can't generate enough topspin on soft backspin ball of my opponent to lift him over the net with inverted on fh.

Any other short pips options ?

Play inverted on the bh : super defence 40.

It's not that it's not "good" I think what Lula was trying to say is that the Yasaka may have some rebound/catapult in the blade causing more arc, which he is advising against, close to the table. Also reading your most recent post here you mention: "Just want to have less spin effect of the opponent when I hit with my forehand". I think you would benefit from a blade with harder feel and less rebound, although rubber plays a more important role than this imo. But in my experience, a stiffer blade will be less sensitive to incoming spin and harder to generate spin than a blade with softer outer plys or one with more "elastic" wood like limba outer. So I would suggest (based on your preference) to stay away from Clipper or AVX P700 for the simple fact that they have Limba outer ply which is on the 'soft' side and the p700 has more rebound effect on harder strokes like a smash than the Clipper. Even more rebound and catapult with ALL+/DEF blades. don't even waste your time or money with ALL/DEF blades. This is in my experience. Also, I think pips with sponge would be more sensitive to incoming spin than pips without sponge.
 
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Easily fixable. I doubt it would affect blade characteristics much if at all. Keep as a backup blade. The good thing for me about playing with fixed blades like this is that it's not so heartbreaking if I get another chip or ding in it again, also I'm not afraid to bang it on the table so I'm likely to play "better" with more confidence with it.
 
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It's not that it's not "good" I think what Lula was trying to say is that the Yasaka may have some rebound/catapult in the blade causing more arc, which he is advising against, close to the table. Also reading your most recent post here you mention: "Just want to have less spin effect of the opponent when I hit with my forehand". I think you would benefit from a blade with harder feel and less rebound, although rubber plays a more important role than this imo. But in my experience, a stiffer blade will be less sensitive to incoming spin and harder to generate spin than a blade with softer outer plys or one with more "elastic" wood like limba outer. So I would suggest (based on your preference) to stay away from Clipper or AVX P700 for the simple fact that they have Limba outer ply which is on the 'soft' side and the p700 has more rebound effect on harder strokes like a smash than the Clipper. Even more rebound and catapult with ALL+/DEF blades. don't even waste your time or money with ALL/DEF blades. This is in my experience. Also, I think pips with sponge would be more sensitive to incoming spin than pips without sponge.

Makes sense, thanks !
 
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