says
2023 Certified Organ Donor
says
2023 Certified Organ Donor
Well-Known Member
Lula said:Think that if you play close to the table you should have a fast, hard blade so the ball leaves the racket fast and in a low arc so you get pressure on the opponent...
Lula getting RIGHT DOWN TO BUSINESS !!!
I agree with the recommendation as a part of two TOTALLY DIFFERENT ways to approach the problem of equipment suitable for close to the table play.
Close to the table players can be blockers, hitters, counter drivers, pushers, and pick-hitters/smashers.
Advantages of a really fast blade that is solid and quick rebounding are that with just a stretch of the arm and some motion (and some grip firming at impact) is that a player without too much conventional footwork can reach a ball with a stretch or small step, not apply too much torque, but time it and firm it... result is a well struck shot that is quick (since the ball is taken early on the rise) and can be pressuring.
Actually, Korean coaches in the late 2000s era preferred to start beginning players with such a bat. Often, this was a Schlager Carbon OFF++ with a first Gen medium sponge low throw Tensor (My ex-pro coach chose Yasaka Extend HS as a default) (Calibra LT is also right up the alley for this with a firmer sponge)
Within a couple months of lessons, Korea beginners would be BANGING the ball back and forth close to the table high speed 100x in a row no misses.
That is why I agree with Lula's recommendation. An OFF+ or OFF++ solid bat will make it real easy to drive the ball... which is pretty much the preferred shot. Blocking is like a drive. A counter drive is a counter smash.
The other, no so popular way (except with old-school pundits) is to go ALL or ALL+ blade.
Why? Such a blade is not so fast, so when you have a good timed and trained stroke and catch the ball on the rise or high over net, you can put more power into the shot and still land it. Blocks can result in soft or hard returns based on pressure of grip. You have a lot of flexibility. Number one thing going for this blade and control oriented OFF rubbers is you can time it and finish a long, hard stroke with a high degree of control.
So... it comes down to how the stroke and impact are done by default preference and ability.
For a player who can make a short stroke, time it well, and control the firming of grip right at impact, there is no beating the uber-fast blades with any modern OFF rubber in medium sponge. Lower throw rubbers the better.
Lula's suggestion wins here and I agree.
For a player who likes to take a longer stroke and really POUND it, and still want to land it... The ALL to ALL+ blade with a control rubber like Rosena of Karis M would be an utter BOSS of at the table counter-finishing dominance. Such a player simply invites someone to attack near the corners and pounces on those attack to finish the point.
All in all, I feel Lula's suggestion is gunna work out the best... none of the blades OP lists will be in this class.
For something that does not cost an arm and a leg and is readily available at somewhat reasonable prices...
For BTY products (you rarely see me pimp BTY, but I will list some of the stuff they sell in this class)
Blade: Get a used Gergely if you can find one... get a Sardius, get anything with T5000 in the name with a decent price used or new. Get a Primorac Carbon... A Schlager Carbon if you can find anyone willing to sell you one.
Rubber: so many ways to go... You could get Rosena and call it a day, You could get Calibra LT and be even more low spin, low throw and powerful. You could try out an older sheet of Bryce if someone is looking to give it away... even a SOFT rubber decent low throw like Nittaku HAMMOND is a great choice (I use it on BH)
You rarely see me on the forum advocate for a ridiculous fast setup, but for this gent the OP, it would suit the kind of strokes he needs to learn and do well with.
Last edited: