My way of cutting a rubber

Hello Yogi Bear

Your comment in the video about not relying on the point of the blade to cut the rubber in order to avoid tearing is particularly relevant. Although slightly off screen, you mention lowering the blade to 45 degrees to avoid this.

I was wondering therefore if the scalpel type blades with the curved cutting edge would be better for the job,; like this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Swann-Mort...3497789&sprefix=curved+scalpel,aps,147&sr=8-2

The blades and handle are relatively cheap. This would allow a more horizontal blade edge to be presented to the rubber for cutting and with the point of the blade away from the rubber. I am assuming, although I have no experience with this, that it would also be less likely to shave the blade edge accidentally with this type of blade. The only issue that I can see is that the handles are quite small and possibly not as easy to grip as a snap off utility knife.
I have not used scalpels to be honest since boxcutters are easier to find but seeing using sharp scalpels being used is not a problem.
 
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says Hello! My name is Cielo (pronounced Shell-o). I grew up...
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I'm so scared of using blades because I always think that I'm never going to get a clean cut. I use scissors all the time and has gotten used to it, but I always have excess rubber since I can't cut close to the paddle. LOL
 
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Hi Basmundo,

Korean club coaches 99% of the time are the ones who glue on new rubbers for club players there.

Almost ALL of them use box cutter to cut the rubber.

When I found a box cutter with a fat handle, I bought SEVERAL of them for the coaches at my club when I was there. They LOVED them as it was SO EASY for them to grip and control... and it used the SAME size of blades they use in their box cutters.

Korean coaches handle the ripping problem by:

- Using only a sharp point - The blades have tiny perforations every cm, so they just snap one off after every 3-4 cuts

- Impact control - They get cut started and keep firm pressure as they cut around in a single pass

I personall find it easier if I lubricate the end of knife a little and also the rubber side. That is why I say one should "Lick it" often. It isn't the only way, but you get the idea and concept of how it helps.
 
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Hi Basmundo,

Korean club coaches 99% of the time are the ones who glue on new rubbers for club players there.

Almost ALL of them use box cutter to cut the rubber.

When I found a box cutter with a fat handle, I bought SEVERAL of them for the coaches at my club when I was there. They LOVED them as it was SO EASY for them to grip and control... and it used the SAME size of blades they use in their box cutters.

Korean coaches handle the ripping problem by:

- Using only a sharp point - The blades have tiny perforations every cm, so they just snap one off after every 3-4 cuts

- Impact control - They get cut started and keep firm pressure as they cut around in a single pass

I personall find it easier if I lubricate the end of knife a little and also the rubber side. That is why I say one should "Lick it" often. It isn't the only way, but you get the idea and concept of how it helps.

Thank you Der_Echte that is very helpful.
 
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I personally use a sharp scissor to cut the rubber, and I always leave a bit of extra rubber. I do this because some rubbers are already factory boosted, and in some cases they can shrink after you've glued the rubber into the blade.

Also, it's nice to leave some extra rubber if you reglue rubbers
 
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I remember watching the owner of this club in Chinatown (NYC) cut rubbers on the blades the club sold and he did it with scissors and he did it really fast and it looked so easy. The cut was always perfect and it was very fast. At a certain point, because I was good friends with one of the guys who worked at the club, the owner and my friend started having me glue and cut rubbers when they sold blades. William (my friend who worked at the club) showed me a few things that made it easier.

In looking at videos on line with people cutting with scissors, I saw some interesting things to get around the handle. They were not what William showed me about how to get around the handle. The hardest part of cutting rubbers with a scissor is starting off, because when you start to cut, right at the bottom by the wing, the handle is in the way of where the scissors need to be. What I was shown was that you take the handle of the scissors below the handle of the blade. And until the handle is out of the way, you make little little cuts with the scissor. Once the handle is out of the way, the rest is easy.

Robert Chen was the owner of the club. I never got anywhere near as good as Robert of William at cutting rubbers. But, often Robert would cut rubbers for 10-20 rackets in a day. When you do it that often, you just get good at it.

I think, whether with scissors or any kind of knife, scalpel, box cutter, X-Acto, whatever, it does take a few times to get the skill so it comes out as well as most people would like. After doing it a few times it starts coming out pretty clean. [[There is no reason you can't order an inexpensive blade like the Yinhe Galaxy 896 and a bunch of Dawei 2008XP and practice a few times before doing it with more expensive rubbers like T05. 896 costs about $16. 2008XP costs $8. You get to practice 4x. You can try scissors and the knife and see which one is easier for you before cutting something more expensive. (That info is for Basmundo who I think may be nervous about cutting expensive rubbers when he has not cut before).]]

I don't think it matters what method of cutting you use. I think the scissors, initially take more skill to get the beginning of the cut to come out well. But once you get used to that part, the rest is really quite easy. So, I prefer scissors. But before I got shown how to use the scissors and get a good cut, I used a knife and felt more comfortable with it, because initially, it is easier that way.

In the end, all that matters is, you do it a little carefully until you feel comfortable doing it.
 
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Hi Basmundo,

Korean club coaches 99% of the time are the ones who glue on new rubbers for club players there.

Almost ALL of them use box cutter to cut the rubber.

When I found a box cutter with a fat handle, I bought SEVERAL of them for the coaches at my club when I was there. They LOVED them as it was SO EASY for them to grip and control... and it used the SAME size of blades they use in their box cutters.

Korean coaches handle the ripping problem by:

- Using only a sharp point - The blades have tiny perforations every cm, so they just snap one off after every 3-4 cuts

- Impact control - They get cut started and keep firm pressure as they cut around in a single pass

I personall find it easier if I lubricate the end of knife a little and also the rubber side. That is why I say one should "Lick it" often. It isn't the only way, but you get the idea and concept of how it helps.

Call me what you want, but I would pay to watch you lick a box cutter.
 
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Call me what you want, but I would pay to watch you lick a box cutter.

Why would I call a cash cow bad names? Some people swallow swords for a living, getting the business end of a box cutter wet enough to perform a task easier is easy business and easy money.
 
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I used to do it with a box cutter, but noticed for some rubbers it causes little pieces to fall off the edges of the rubber over time. Now I use a pen to draw the blade shape and then I use scissors to cut the rubber before I glue it on the blade. The problem I had with the box cutter method is now solved, but it's a bit harder to get the correct shape. If I do it carefully this works perfectly for me.

I have known someone who did it roughly with scissors but finished it off with a disc sander...bit strange, but that also seemed to work perfectly.
 
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Why would I call a cash cow bad names? Some people swallow swords for a living, getting the business end of a box cutter wet enough to perform a task easier is easy business and easy money.

PM me your address and a 5 minute video of blade licking action. I'll send you a few blades to play around with. Table tennis blades of course.
 
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I personally use a sharp scissor to cut the rubber, and I always leave a bit of extra rubber. I do this because some rubbers are already factory boosted, and in some cases they can shrink after you've glued the rubber into the blade.

Also, it's nice to leave some extra rubber if you reglue rubbers

Does T05 come into the category of rubbers that shrink after gluing? Also how do you overcome the problem of the prominent edge of the rubber coming away from the blade when you come into contact with the table when playing an enthusiastic push: by using edging tape?
 
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I remember watching the owner of this club in Chinatown (NYC) cut rubbers on the blades the club sold and he did it with scissors and he did it really fast and it looked so easy. The cut was always perfect and it was very fast. At a certain point, because I was good friends with one of the guys who worked at the club, the owner and my friend started having me glue and cut rubbers when they sold blades. William (my friend who worked at the club) showed me a few things that made it easier.

In looking at videos on line with people cutting with scissors, I saw some interesting things to get around the handle. They were not what William showed me about how to get around the handle. The hardest part of cutting rubbers with a scissor is starting off, because when you start to cut, right at the bottom by the wing, the handle is in the way of where the scissors need to be. What I was shown was that you take the handle of the scissors below the handle of the blade. And until the handle is out of the way, you make little little cuts with the scissor. Once the handle is out of the way, the rest is easy.

Robert Chen was the owner of the club. I never got anywhere near as good as Robert of William at cutting rubbers. But, often Robert would cut rubbers for 10-20 rackets in a day. When you do it that often, you just get good at it.

I think, whether with scissors or any kind of knife, scalpel, box cutter, X-Acto, whatever, it does take a few times to get the skill so it comes out as well as most people would like. After doing it a few times it starts coming out pretty clean. [[There is no reason you can't order an inexpensive blade like the Yinhe Galaxy 896 and a bunch of Dawei 2008XP and practice a few times before doing it with more expensive rubbers like T05. 896 costs about $16. 2008XP costs $8. You get to practice 4x. You can try scissors and the knife and see which one is easier for you before cutting something more expensive. (That info is for Basmundo who I think may be nervous about cutting expensive rubbers when he has not cut before).]]

I don't think it matters what method of cutting you use. I think the scissors, initially take more skill to get the beginning of the cut to come out well. But once you get used to that part, the rest is really quite easy. So, I prefer scissors. But before I got shown how to use the scissors and get a good cut, I used a knife and felt more comfortable with it, because initially, it is easier that way.

In the end, all that matters is, you do it a little carefully until you feel comfortable doing it.

Thanks Carl. Great advice as usual.:)
 
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Does T05 come into the category of rubbers that shrink after gluing? Also how do you overcome the problem of the prominent edge of the rubber coming away from the blade when you come into contact with the table when playing an enthusiastic push: by using edging tape?

From my experience, T05 is a bit factory boosted. The first two weeks with a fresh TO5 always felt like heaven.

I use a bit of edge tape on the vulnerable parts of the racket, I try not to use too much edge tape because it affects the weight of my racket.

The racket will not be as "protected" if you leave some extra rubber, and not using edge tape over the whole racket; but I don't mind
 
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From my experience, T05 is a bit factory boosted. The first two weeks with a fresh TO5 always felt like heaven.

I use a bit of edge tape on the vulnerable parts of the racket, I try not to use too much edge tape because it affects the weight of my racket.

The racket will not be as "protected" if you leave some extra rubber, and not using edge tape over the whole racket; but I don't mind

Thanks Archyan. I guess that the rubber could always be trimmed a bit on the large size to start with and then given a final trim to size after it has shrunk.
 
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Some of the rubber shrinkage issue actually has to do with the fact that, if you roll the rubber to ensure that there are no air pockets, that process stretches the rubber. So, even rubbers that are not boosted can appear to "shrink" if they are stretched a bit when they are glued on.

I don't know if Tenergy has any boost or not. I always felt it did not. The arc of how long it lasts is just way too different than the rubbers that have obviously been boosted. But I don't know and could easily be wrong. However the sponge is very pliable, very elastic and easily stretched.

I personally just don't use edge tape. I just don't care about what it protects. If the edge of the rubber comes up away from the blade, I will put glue on a business card, slide it in the part where the rubber is coming up and re-glue that area; or I will take the rubber off and re-glue.

But I also don't bother removing old glue unless it is really thick or uneven. To re-glue I will just add more glue. :)

Everyone does things differently. In the old days of speed glue, you would let the glue build and build before you pulled it all off. I have never re-glued rubbers with water based glue that the glue needed to be pulled off. So, why bother.
 
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I don't think the Tenergy 05 is boosted. I really think that their bounce has a lot to do with the spring sponge. I don't re-glue my rubbers often even after playing multiple days a week so I could be wrong.

But just like Archyan, I use sharp scissors and leave excess rubber, due to the "past experience" of rubbers shrinking. That doesn't happen anymore (to me at least) when I used the Tenergy series, now the Dignics series. Maybe it's just based on how people glue their rubbers? And how much glue they use? Not sure. But it did happen a lot back then.
 
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From my experience, T05 is a bit factory boosted. The first two weeks with a fresh TO5 always felt like heaven.

I use a bit of edge tape on the vulnerable parts of the racket, I try not to use too much edge tape because it affects the weight of my racket.

The racket will not be as "protected" if you leave some extra rubber, and not using edge tape over the whole racket; but I don't mind

If you are worried about weight, just put a small piece of edge tape at the 10 o'clock position. Not much chance of scraping anywhere else.
 
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