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    Thread: Glues

    1. Top | #21
      Basmundo is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by davidzhang View Post
      I'm in France now because of the current situation
      We also use DHS15 on Tenergy, nothing wrong with that !
      Don't believe people saying that one glue is better than the other for Tenergy, just avoid speed/VOC glue on Tenergy.
      I use DHS 15 because it's cheap in China and easy to apply but in Europe you can buy it on some online shops.
      You can also use any top brand water based glue, they are all almost the same (Butterfly Free Chack/Donic Vario Clean/Nittaku Finezip...).
      Try to apply the right amount of glue to have thin and homogeneous layers, if you want to glue boosted rubbers, don't use more glue, just apply more layers.
      Thank you David
      That is helpful. Is there any way of describing what is the correct amount/volume of glue?

    2. Top | #22
      Basmundo is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by yogi_bear View Post
      1 layer glue for wood a d 1 layer glue for sponge is good enough. Multiplelayers has its disadvantage like when you reglue it is hard to remove the glue from the sponge depending on the type of wbg.
      Thanks Yogi. Are you able to let me know what particular wbg are more easily removed while diving good adherence while in use? Perhaps you can PM me if you would rather not say on the forum.

    3. Top | #23
      yogi_bear is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Basmundo View Post
      Thanks Yogi. Are you able to let me know what particular wbg are more easily removed while diving good adherence while in use? Perhaps you can PM me if you would rather not say on the forum.
      Revolution no. 3

    4. Top | #24
      goodhand is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by yogi_bear View Post
      Revolution no. 3
      I am using Revolution Nr. 3 glue, and have so far adhered to the official Revolution Nr. 3 video tutorial instruction saying that for best effect, apply 3 layers to the rubber and 2 layers to the blade. But in the back of my mind, there is always the nagging question of is it really necessary to apply so many layers? Can you please shed some light on this issue? Thank you very much.

    5. Top | #25
      UpSideDownCarl is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by goodhand View Post
      I am using Revolution Nr. 3 glue, and have so far adhered to the official Revolution Nr. 3 video tutorial instruction saying that for best effect, apply 3 layers to the rubber and 2 layers to the blade. But in the back of my mind, there is always the nagging question of is it really necessary to apply so many layers? Can you please shed some light on this issue? Thank you very much.
      I could be wrong but I think the theory is that with extra layers of glue, there is more rubber (or latex) and therefore more elasticity in the connection between rubber and blade so the sponge responds better. I think maybe there is also the thought that, it is almost like adding extra sponge without the sponge being thicker.

      I think some of the ideas may come from the fact that, after the speed glue ban was lifted, the CNT was trying methods for gaining a glue effect without VOCs. One thing they tried was lots of extra layers of glue. However, at the time, CNT players were adding 10-15 layers of glue. I think, when they developed boosters that were effective enough, that did not trigger the VOC sensors, they may have stopped adding so many layers of glue.
      Spin Everything.

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    7. Top | #26
      mart1nandersson is offline
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      Fun fact: 1 layer of (wbg) glue typically weighs in at a little bit south of 1g. 10 layers would add quite a bit of weight to a setup.

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    9. Top | #27
      Basmundo is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by mart1nandersson View Post
      Fun fact: 1 layer of (wbg) glue typically weighs in at a little bit south of 1g. 10 layers would add quite a bit of weight to a setup.
      Hmmm! Interesting.

    10. Top | #28
      UpSideDownCarl is offline
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      One more note on layers: the more layers you add, the more chances you have to have a layer with bubbles or for it to dry unevenly.

      I think one layer on wood and sponge is fine as well. I have used multiple layers many times. But I don't think it is anything needed. And a glue company telling you to use more glue....well........I could think of some reasons for that....

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    12. Top | #29
      Basmundo is offline
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      Thank you all for your contributions. It is indicative of the way that the TT community is happy to help fellow players and share experiences and information.
      A further question please. Is it likely that adhesion increases over time; making it more difficult to remove the rubber from the blade without damage? I am aware that it is necessary to change rubbers when they have deteriorated in their performance but it is also advisable, for instance, to re-glue the same rubber after a set period of time?

    13. Top | #30
      trumpet_guy is offline
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      I have used Donic Formula First with good success, but I would only use this on a sealed blade. It’s fairly wet.

      I now use Nittaku Finezip and think it’s very good. Perfect viscosity, but spread it quickly then leave it to dry. If you touch it while drying it will clump. It is still the best I have tried and pretty easy to use, and strong enough. Easy to remove.

    14. Top | #31
      Tinykin is offline
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      Best glue for rubber - dries almost instantly. Apply a week before a tournament

      Click image for larger version. 

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      Last edited by Tinykin; 1 Week Ago at 09:59 AM.
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