says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Only against robot, I’m liking it more and more each time I use it. In fact just ordered another sheet!!!
i have 1.9mm thickness sponge, so may be a little slower, and slightly more control than the 2.1mm.

good spin on BH serves, but because the sponge is (for me) very bouncy and the top sheet ‘slightly’ tacky the energy is still very efficiently transferred to the ball. So a very light touch is required.
09C does have many gears, but at very low speed touch shots and for short, and I mean very short serves, (2nd and 3rd bounce before the ball reaches 1/2 way into the opponent’s side of the table) then care and touch are needed.
for more usual short and half long knuckle breaker serves, long and fast serves the rubber preforms really well, high spin, good control and fast when needed.

pushing - early hard push very good, Softer push (see above) variation of spin when pushing, has been difficult to assess as there’s not enough space in my garage to watch the ball path and resulting spin past the end of the table (what I have noticed is that I can still hear the ball spinning in the collection tray, especially when playing a push with some side spin on it) I don’t have good enough technique when trying to play a ‘ghost’ push so can’t comment on that, I haven’t been able to push and stop the ball within 2 bounces.
But my feeling is that the amount of spin imparted can be controlled.
This rubber is really good for the faster attacking pushes.

backhand passive block, very good, active block very good, (robot topspin is high with faster speeds)

BH topspin against backspin very good, for my limited ability, Backhand flick (against mediocre robot serve) very good, my ability level for this shot is improving. In general though against backspin, it performs well. (When playing against the robots backspin directly onto my side of the table, the robot produces what I class as very high backspin, similar to playing a very spinny FH topspin to a LP rubber or very good chopper and getting all the spin back) so I feel that a better player with good backhand technique will produce some really high class flicks and returns against backspin.

BH top spin v top spin, BH loop, nice, nicer, very fast spin loaded shots can be produced.
BH drive - very good, fast and good control, precision needed with flat hits, but these are good as well, not a shot I play much though, prefer to spin!!

Chopping - I’ve played chops against topspin, and the rubber is capable of reasonable chop shots, but the space behind the table is only about 5 feet (1.5m ish) so it’s difficult to really assess properly, I have a good chopping technique (but rarely used these days) and was still able to produce a low spinny chop on about 50% of the shots, which I feel is good considering how fast the ball was coming at me when only 4ft(1.2m ish) behind the table and trying to play a chop!!!!

Passive shots / reaction to incoming spin, still reacts to incoming spin fairly highly so a passive shot using the opponents spin and trying to throw it back to them needs care.

Because i haven’t been able to play in a real match or training situation against another person, my PERSONAL assessment could well change slightly.

please remember this is PERSONAL assessment and all reviews are dependant on playing level and ability.
for reference I play local league English level in the middle divisions of the league. So not considered high standard. But like a lot of people I have trained and been coached, and once we all get through this COVID-19 outbreak and things return to somewhat normal conditions I will be taking the official coaching badges, I also help out with coaching sessions run by other coaches , mainly because I’m willing !!!! But also because my general technique is pretty good.


All in all 09C is a fantastic BH rubber, great spin , great speed, great control,
 
says Aging is a killer
Another rubber (Rakza Z) bites the dust

I tried Rakza Z on one side and Dignics 09c on the other, on the Hurricane Long 5x blade, and these are my observations:

Rakza Z is more linear, i.e. the slow shots and the fast shots are directly proportional to the force you exert, while the Dignics 09c has more of a response that when you do a weak shot it is very slow, but the forceful shots have more zing to it. The 09c has a higher top speed than the Rakza Z. At first I could not pinpoint what the difference is because they are very similar. 09c is slower on the slow end, and faster on the fast end.

I find it more enjoyable to use the 09c because the higher gears has a satisfying click + speed boost, but the Rakza Z is more controlled in my opinion, so it depends on what you are going for. I think in the end Rakza Z may win me more points my getting my shots with placement and on the table more times, but the 09c will have more put away power and the slow spinny loops are quite spinny.

On slow loops, the 09c will have more spin.

Rakza Z behaves more like Hurricane 3 Neo Prov Blue Sponge, with a big difference: the throw angle of Rakza Z is much higher than Hurricane. The top end speed will also be faster on the boosted Blue Sponge.

From your description, you'll do away with the Rakza Z as soon as you get fully used to the D09C. I give you 1 year:)
 
says Aging is a killer
Still trying justify buying a TT rubber that costs more than my car tyre

You guys are making it very difficult for me not to buy D09C. For example:

Magic_M; “When I tried out the D09C, it was a pleasure from the first moment on”

Ant man; “I find it more enjoyable to use the 09c” – vs Rakza7

IB66; “I’m liking it more and more each time I use it. In fact just ordered another sheet!!!”

The only thing stopping me buying a couple sheets is that my D05 shows no sign of deteriorating even after a year of use. And a friend gave me an almost new sheet of T05 as he had bought D09C.
 
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says Shoo...nothing to see here. - zeio
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The only thing stopping me buying a couple sheets is that my D05 shows no sign of deteriorating even after a year of use.

Care to share some pics so we can compare with the official ones?
 
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Passive shots / reaction to incoming spin, still reacts to incoming spin fairly highly so a passive shot using the opponents spin and trying to throw it back to them needs care.
Whatever your opponent does: it is important, that you do a short active movement with your hand - to determine the direction ion the ball. If you do this, you will be able to bring back each ball on the table with the Dignics 09C.

The only problem I have with the D09C is, when I try to attack fast with my forehand, because I have a more traditional forehand with a long movement of my arm. The D09C has sooo much grip that it bites the ball and with a long arm-movement it is not so easy (for me) to find the right amount of power to bring the ball on the table. With a little too much power or too much opened blade the ball lands behind the table. Therefore I prefer the D09C on my backhand. Here it is really near perfection (for me). If someone has a more "modern" forehand-technique with short movements, the D09C will be a very good (but crazy expansive) option for both sides
 
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Whatever your opponent does: it is important, that you do a short active movement with your hand - to determine the direction ion the ball. If you do this, you will be able to bring back each ball on the table with the Dignics 09C.

The only problem I have with the D09C is, when I try to attack fast with my forehand, because I have a more traditional forehand with a long movement of my arm. The D09C has sooo much grip that it bites the ball and with a long arm-movement it is not so easy (for me) to find the right amount of power to bring the ball on the table. With a little too much power or too much opened blade the ball lands behind the table. Therefore I prefer the D09C on my backhand. Here it is really near perfection (for me). If someone has a more "modern" forehand-technique with short movements, the D09C will be a very good (but crazy expansive) option for both sides
It is not about stroke size, it is about coming over the top of the ball. I agree with a lot of what you have written about D09C but I don't agree it suits a particular technique or playing level for any reason other than price.

I don't think any player at any level will have a problem with D09C. But like Tenergy 05 if you don't play over the ball consistently you will send the ball long when you hit powerfully. In my opinion it is actually easier to hir consistently powerfully with D09C because the tack gives you more time to compensate while other Butterlfy rubbers require more precision from the start.
 
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Moreover does d09c pair better with inner carbon blades like long5 or outer carbon like viscaria?
 
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In my tests up to now I have better control with the D09C on the "hipnotic" outer carbon blade than with the Harimoto SZLC inner carbon, but this may be caused to the higher speed of the Harimoto and not to the place of the composite layer.
 
says Aging is a killer
The colours in the photo are not correct

Care to share some pics so we can compare with the official ones?

The colours in the photo are not correct as I played with the settings in post to better show the detail.
I estimate that this D05 has between 100-120 hrs of table time. About 30hrs of which were on the robot. Plus I've switched it between blades twice. I've also done the cooking oil thing a couple of times. I think that's why the areas of most wear don't show up like those in your link.
The clear stuff around the logo is due to sweat and dirt.
I can't tell how much the overall performance is down but more importantly, the bounce and grip over the playing area is still even more or less.
Note that the D05 is durable given normal care but, in my experience, it is fragile. The first copy I had, I accidentally hit against the table. It took me a while to figure it out but the sponge had split causing all sorts of problems during play.

Dignics 05 (2) ISO100 F3.5_57GB.jpg

Split sponge on D05

D05 split.jpg
 
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says Shoo...nothing to see here. - zeio
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Thanks. Looks amazing for pushing 120 hours. I put in a similar amount of time in a year so that's a good reference.

The edge is holding up pretty well. One early review in China says the T05H is similar in that regard. T05 would have looked like the Thousand Islands.

The sponge splitting is new though. Did it split all the way from topsheet to sponge?
 
says Aging is a killer
.....
The sponge splitting is new though. Did it split all the way from topsheet to sponge?

No. The topsheet looked ok. That's why it took me a while to figure out that the rubber was damaged and that I wasn't simply playing badly.
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Is d09c as durable as d05?

I’ve been practicing with D09C for about 1 1/2 months with a table and robot, and during lockdown for about 8 weeks hitting the ball against a wall using the dinning table!!!! So near on 3 1/2months, averaging about 1 hr a day, so 90+ hours give or take.
for the last 1 1/2 months solely backhand training.
so when practicing FH serves, pendulum, reverse pendulum and ghost , your index changes position as necessary for the appropriate serve grip / personnel grip preference. I have noticed that the D09C surface has dulled significantly, due to finger ware and moisture. Doesn’t seem to have affected performance, discolouration is a usual occurrence from finger position anyway, at least I think every BH rubber I’ve used does the same, it just seems more ‘obvious’.
So far the rubber is still playing well, haven’t noticed any change in performance.

I can’t compare to D05 though.

Today I used it for FH serves as a comparison against the H3 Nat (un-boosted) that I’m using on FH.
As for BH the extra bounce makes really short serves a tad harder, but for the ghost serve, which I’m still learning and nowhere near proficient at !!! It was actually easier than with the H3 Nat!!!! Spin was better and more consistent. I then went through pendulum and reverse pendulum serves, consistency was better, spin equal to H3 Nat and control seemed easier !!!!!

Now I was really thinking !!!!

What about FH top spin and loop ??? I’ve been quite regimental during the last 1 1/2 months and only played the occasional FH with the 09C, concentrating on the H3 Nat, after 2no 3 minute forehand drills i was very happy, yep it’s faster but still controlled.

Maybe my forehand is improving, due to almost daily training with the robot, because far less shots over sailed and I felt more in control, previously I didn’t really feel in control that’s why I decided to use it on BH side. Maybe today was just a good day!!!!

This evening I took off the un boosted H3 Nat and replaced it with a sheet of boosted H3 Nat. So tomorrow can’t come quick enough !!!!!!!
 
says Not for sale, I liked it actually
says Not for sale, I liked it actually
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dignics 09c (boosted) vs h3 blue sponge national (properly boosted)

Boosting techique:
09c: 4 thin layer of falco tempo long with 4 layers of medium viscosity glue. The formula I like as I've been boosting dignics for a while and tried different combination.
h3nat (41 degree, 2.1mm) : 4 layers of sea moon with 5 layer of high viscosity glue. The formula that pro uses.


Speed: A lot of people always care about the speed from a straight line point of view but lots of people keep forgetting that speed = distant travel / time.
For d09c the time aspect is lower compare to h3 but for h3 since the throw angle is lower the distant travel is significantly lower than 09c. At full power h3nat is definitely faster compare to 09c.

Short game: is pretty much the same.

Ease of use:
D09c is definitely easier to generate pace and spin.

When playing with h3 you need to play it as an extension of your hand, you need to have that snap wrist to achieve the maximum spin. This is something dan do not have; thus his video is very inaccurate (he also don't know how to properly boost h3 that's for sure). However, for d09c you do not need to do the wrist snapping thing to achieve maximum spin. Doing the wrist snapping thing will only make the ball very uncontrollable.

H3 will weirdly go to the net if you forgot to do the snap wrist thing during your stroke. I am used to play with euro rubber so sometimes i forgot to loosen my wrist.

Counter looping:
Both are easy but h3 have this extra gear that d09c do not have. As i mentioned from my previous post if my opponent do a very spinny opening. I can wait the ball to come down THEN loop it with full force (XX love to do that, it looks easy but it's actually a really difficult shot). I can do the same thing with 09c but not as confident with h3 nat.



TL;DR h3 is spinner, faster at higher gear, slower at lower gear. However d09c is easier to use and it last significantly longer than h3 national. The boosting effect on 09c is permanent. For h3 nat, you either bubble it in 2 weeks or the boosting effect will be gone. H3 nat is not worth it, not the price not the hassle.
 
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Post this in the thread that has been active the last few days.
 
says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Cheers for the post ‘scrubplayer’

i’ve only ever boosted 3 rubbers, so interesting to see how you do it.

read a few articles and watched the occasional video about boosting.

1st attempt was Standard H3, 2.1mm Red sheet, 1layer of Normal glue, 3 layers of FLT booster. Worked well domed up, but the dome didn’t seem to want to reduce, even 7 days after the last coat of booster was applied. Eventually got it on a blade really had to weight it down, a clamp would have been better, edges wanted to peel.

2nd attempt was Aibiss which had 1 layer glue, 2 layers FLT booster, photos in the ‘new rubber Aibiss’ thread. Good dome, made the rubber slightly softer and faster.

3rd was H3 Nat blue sponge, 2.2mm, this rubber had been played in, 3 months old. Boosted as the Aibiss.
made the rubber / sponge feel limp, no doming effect, maybe it domed by 4 - 8 mm max didn’t seem to make any difference to feel and speed etc, I was quite disappointed!!!!!!!!! But maybe I just got it totally wrong!!!

A few questions -

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges?
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ?
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue?
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition?

many thanks!,,
 
says Not for sale, I liked it actually
says Not for sale, I liked it actually
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Cheers for the post ‘scrubplayer’

i’ve only ever boosted 3 rubbers, so interesting to see how you do it.

read a few articles and watched the occasional video about boosting.

1st attempt was Standard H3, 2.1mm Red sheet, 1layer of Normal glue, 3 layers of FLT booster. Worked well domed up, but the dome didn’t seem to want to reduce, even 7 days after the last coat of booster was applied. Eventually got it on a blade really had to weight it down, a clamp would have been better, edges wanted to peel.

2nd attempt was Aibiss which had 1 layer glue, 2 layers FLT booster, photos in the ‘new rubber Aibiss’ thread. Good dome, made the rubber slightly softer and faster.

3rd was H3 Nat blue sponge, 2.2mm, this rubber had been played in, 3 months old. Boosted as the Aibiss.
made the rubber / sponge feel limp, no doming effect, maybe it domed by 4 - 8 mm max didn’t seem to make any difference to feel and speed etc, I was quite disappointed!!!!!!!!! But maybe I just got it totally wrong!!!

A few questions -

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges?
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ?
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue?
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition?

many thanks!,,

1) is the sea moon better for the DHS type sponges? Yes, falco is too weak and doesn't work on dhs rubber
2) medium viscosity glue - such as ? Revolution medium viscosity. For h3 nat i use No15 which is thicker.
3) why apply a layer of glue after each coat of booster? Do you let the booster completely dry before applying the layer of glue? The extra layer of glue acts as an extra sponge to better control and better bounce.
4) how long does the whole procedure last? Including the flattening out process. For dignics, I first cut the rubber, then I apply the booster in the middle only. That way the rubber won't curl up at the edge making gluing not a problem. For dhs, No15 is really strong; it's designed for boosted rubber so it's np sticking onto the paddle. How long the booster dry depends on the temp and area. I live in SF so it's pretty dry up here, booster dry within 6 hours.
5) Does the sheet return to a completely flat condition? see my reply on 4) it doesn't matter, I got ways to glue it; no need to wait days/weeks to flat.
 
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