Blade lacquering

They most likely only put one layer on, since it's a free option. It'd take too much time before sending out, if they had to give all the blades 2-3 layers. You have to wait Some hours between each layer.

1 layer is usually not enough, in my experience.

Actually I ordered a blade from them not long ago, and they send it out pretty quick to my surprise. So they could only have put 1 layer on.


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It's not so difficult actually. I use Xiom I-Sure. You just have to spread it evenly. Let it dry for 4 hours. Add another layer and wait 4 hours to add the next. When you've added the layers you wanted, I recommend using the finest grain sandpaper and very lightly/loosly sand the surface. You have to wait 12 hours from the last sealing to attach the rubbers.

You can do both sides at once by letting the blade stand up in a glass.


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nymose said:

It's not so difficult actually. I use Xiom I-Sure. You just have to spread it evenly. Let it dry for 4 hours. Add another layer and wait 4 hours to add the next. When you've added the layers you wanted, I recommend using the finest grain sandpaper and very lightly/loosly sand the surface. You have to wait 12 hours from the last sealing to attach the rubbers.

You can do both sides at once by letting the blade stand up in a glass.

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Lol, next time i will try this. Although i have dozens of Xiom items in my stash, I honestly not tried this yet since i do not seal my blades anymore, well mostly except for Stiga.

I-sure is a very good product, for non boosted rubber, i would recommend to sand very thin after sealing to attach a boosted rubber.

I definitely don't think you should add more than one layer of sealant.

https://www.tabletennisdaily.com/fo...6-The-UpSideDown-Method-of-Sealing-Your-Blade

That is the link to a thread for how I seal which includes a video. But the reason you only want a thin layer of sealant is that, the more sealant is on the blade face, the more it will change the feeling of the blade. And it usually won't make the blade feel better, but instead will make the blade feel more dull.

Yeah, personally I think 1 layer is to little and 3 are too much, so 2 are the best I find. Unless it's already presealed, I only go with 1, and sometimes if it's a good enough pre-seal, I don't seal it before first rubber change

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For me the best solution is to put one thin layer and wait few hours. Then sand a little bit and put a new thin layer

Being honest, you only need a very very very thin layer.

Everyone has a right to choose how they want to do things. Many blades don't need to be sealed at all. But, I have never needed more than one thin layer on any of the blades I have ever used. Not sure how or why your blade got damaged when you removed the rubbers, but I have a feeling, if you used the sealant that I use, it would not have happened.

UpSideDownCarl said:

Being honest, you only need a very very very thin layer.

Everyone has a right to choose how they want to do things. Many blades don't need to be sealed at all. But, I have never needed more than one thin layer on any of the blades I have ever used. Not sure how or why your blade got damaged when you removed the rubbers, but I have a feeling, if you used the sealant that I use, it would not have happened.

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I guess it depends more on how often you gonna reglue or maybe even boost your rubbers if any sealent is needed (besided of the kind of blade you are using - some you really have to seal it).
In my experience with several blade - if you glue often and boost, you have to seal that blade. otherwise that thing will splinter quite fast.

For example: my last Yinhe V-10 pro lost some of his wood^^ after the second gluing already without any sealing done before.

Николай Петров said:

No idea carl I guess tt11 didn’t lacquer it anyways thanks for the help and info I will do these things by my self from now on.

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Maybe I will hazard a guess. One time I let someone seal a blade for me. He used a water based sealant that was from Xiom, so it was a sealant from an actual TT company. That sealant, I did not like how it worked at all. The glue stuck really hard to it. So the rubber was hard to remove. So, I applied the kind sealant I like to the blade instead.

The sealant I use makes it so the rubber comes off kind of easily. It also keeps the water from a water based glue from sinking into the wood because the wood has a layer that is waterproof protecting it.

Attitude said:

I guess it depends more on how often you gonna reglue or maybe even boost your rubbers if any sealent is needed (besided of the kind of blade you are using - some you really have to seal it).
In my experience with several blade - if you glue often and boost, you have to seal that blade. otherwise that thing will splinter quite fast.

For example: my last Yinhe V-10 pro lost some of his wood^^ after the second gluing already without any sealing done before.

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Limba as a top ply benefits from being sealed because it is easy to damage Limba. A wood like Koto or White Ash or most of the other harder top plies don't really seem to need sealing as a result of splintering. Because the wood is harder, it is rare for those kinds of woods to splinter the way a delicate Limba top ply can splinter.

So, I would definitely seal most Limba blades. The exception may be that a Butterfly blade with a Limba top ply usually won't need sealant for splintering because of the way Butterfly makes their blades. But, I still would seal a Butterfly blade even though I don't feel it needs it.

But, it is true that, when using a blade made by one of those Chinese companies like Yinhe, the price/build quality is something you have to be aware of. Those blades are excellent for how inexpensive they are. But they are not the best crafted blades. So, yeah, it would be worth sealing a Yinhe blade.

In any case, a good polyurethane sealant from a HARDWARE store, not from a TT company should allow you to use one thin layer of sealant.

Remember, TT companies have a vested interest in you buying more products. So, maybe a sealant sold by a TT company is not exactly what you would want.

If you put too much sealant on, in addition to making the blade harder, changing it's playing characteristics like UpSideDownCarl mentioned, it will also reduce the adhesion of the glue. A little goes a long way...

For me, 1200 is too thin, there will be no hook. The varnish must have a minimum hook, if not there will be no protection because it won't fit on the wood. Between two layers I use 500. But don’t force, sand lightly as if you were passing a cleaning cloth.
After the second use 500 or 800 but not a too thin grid. Max 1000

The same for other types of protection.
With a too thin grid, the pores will not be open enough

You are right to want to protect it especially if you boost every month and you take off the rubber.

I don’t know if you saw it but I edit my post to explain more.