Boosting Friendship RITC 729 experiment.

says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Hi,

Moving on from a previous thread ‘ Boosting H3 Neo National’ , the last post I made on that thread was to try boosting 2 sheets of rubber in slightly different ways and see what happens.
How much the sponge expands, and what difference is found in letting the doming subside before applying coats of booster and just applying booster at regular 24hr intervals regardless of the doming. Glue when highly domed etc.

So the rubber I chose is Friendship RITC 729,

6C820DF9-9CCF-490F-BC4B-C15DA7C8A2F5.jpg

I bought the sheets from Tabletennis11, cost is €9.90 plus tax per sheet, which is a bargain!!!
Sheets felt tacky, and the sponge is fairly hard as a typical Chinese rubber should be!!
i don’t think this rubber is factory tuned??

Both sheets were measured before 1 thin coat glue (sealer) was applied.

Red sheet 164 x 167 mm,
This sheet will be allowed to have any doming flattened out, before the next coat of booster is applied. The sheet will also be left to allow the doming to subside before it is glued to the blade.

Black sheet 164 x 165 mm,
This sheet will have a coat of booster applied every 24 hrs regardless of any doming

A08CE433-8F58-477B-A3E7-80ED974D3509.jpg
0BB39131-9221-4B0D-82D4-750FB13C0D05.jpg

As can been seen there is a slight curl to both rubbers straight out of the pack, possibly due to how it has been stored ? The curling is in the opposite way to what we would expect to see after boosting. After the protective film was removed the curling started to reduce straight away.

199501E7-8F60-47AA-81D3-6780830DD61E.jpg

Both sheets flattened out completely after the thin coat of glue and 1st coat of Seamoon booster was applied.
4733F99D-CEDF-4AD8-8185-9B10DD5539D7.jpg

So I’m going to apply 3 coats of booster in total. ( this could cause an issue with the black sheet if it domes heavily after the 1st couple of coats of booster, we’ll see how it goes.)

Hopefully the Black sheet will be on the blade after about 72 hrs ( 0 hr = coat 1, 24 hrs = coat 2, 48 hrs = coat 3, let dry, 72hrs glue on blade.
I have also got some DHS No15 glue, which is meant to be very strong, and will hopefully cope with the doming in conjunction with some weight compression !!!

The Red sheet could be a completely different kettle of fish!! This will depend on how the rubber domes up nd how long it takes the doming to go down!!!!

I’ll take a couple of photos in the morning and post, so we can see how the initial reaction to the booster is taking effect. Measurements will be taken every 24hrs, before the next coat of booster is applied.

I don’t have a Durometer to check the sponge hardness and see how this is effected by the boosting process.

cheers,
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
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23/10/20 06.00 - both sheets are still not doming as much as I thought they would.
rubber s feeling softer, when put in a domed position, they hold for a while but gradually slip down.

remeasured

Red sheet - 166 (+2mm) x 169mm (+2mm) - overall now +2mm and +2mm bigger
Black sheet - 166 (+2mm) x 167.5m (+1.5mm) - overall now +2 and +1.5mm bigger

so sheets are expanding slightly in size but not doming and retaining the dome.
 
says toooooo much choice!!
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15CB84C0-D9F8-497A-B5A1-46F345CC0156.jpg

Yeh!!!! 3rd coat of Seamoon has done it!!! Doming nicely, rubber feels softer than when straight out of the pack.

So tomorrow I’ll measure the black sheet 1 last time, then glue onto a blade with the doming still high.
Red sheet, will be left to go down and measured every 24hrs then finally glued to the blade.
 
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New episode everyday! Next month you can charge subscription rather than give “free trial”.
this is thrilling
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
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Re measured both sheets, they are now both 3mm bigger for both measurements taken.
Red -
out of pack 164 x 167, now 167 x 170mm
Black -
out of pack 164 x 165, now 167 x 168mm

standard expansion across the sheet.

Gluing Black sheet this afternoon.
 
says Fair Play first
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[size=+2]@IB66[/size]
[size=+1]HELPERS WANTED !!

Dear Colleague,
Please take our best compliments on the researching works of yours. Your notable passion for making experiments on table tennis rubbers is appreciated very much, indeed.
Hereby we'd ask you for some specific investigations on the YINHE Big Dipper #49-007 rubber sheet. We strongly suspect Yinhe using a prohibited version of topsheet having two layers of rubber material combined one onto another. Could you provide some good evidence to us?

Thank you a lot in advance

Igor Novick
International Racket Control Staff
[/size]
 
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[size=+2]@IB66[/size]
[size=+1]HELPERS WANTED !!

Dear Colleague,
Please take our best compliments on the researching works of yours. Your notable passion for making experiments on table tennis rubbers is appreciated very much, indeed.
Hereby we'd ask you for some specific investigations on the YINHE Big Dipper #49-007 rubber sheet. We strongly suspect Yinhe using a prohibited version of topsheet having two layers of rubber material combined one onto another. Could you provide some good evidence to us?

Thank you a lot in advance

Igor Novick
International Racket Control Staff
[/size]

Sry for cutting into the discussion. I had no evidence for Big Dipper, but that was the case. I wore the sticky surface of my Jupiter 2 sheet that separation between those two layers you are talking about was visible.
 
says toooooo much choice!!
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I actually have a sheet of Big Dipper !! Taken off a blade about 16 months ago. It’s been very lonely.
However I don’t have a clue how to try and separate 2 layers of rubber that may have been combined in a top sheet!!!
You can see it’s evident displeasure of being reduced to the ‘old has been’ box, which is where it’s going to stay !!:p:p:rolleyes:
FFC6626E-F77F-40D5-97C9-D2387432C33D.jpg
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
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I will be keeping an eye out if the glue is keeping the black rubber on the blade.
Thanks for sharing your experiment

Hi,
DHS No15 is designed for gluing DHS and other Chinese rubbers, which are generally always boosted
This glue can be used if the rubbers are glued while still domed or left to go down. It’s a strong glue.
I weighted the blade down for about 10 minutes then cut the rubber. No separation of rubber from blade usually the rubber will ‘peel’ itself off early doors, before the glue has ‘gone off’.
if the boost was higher, I would have weighted down for longer to allow the glue to go off for longer.
Revoultion have a racket clamp designed for this reason. May be worth getting.

to be honest, the doming was / is, what I would class as medium strength.

My first attempt at boosting was a sheet of DHS H3 (std sheet)
with 3 layers of Falco LTB this resulted in a high strength doming, probably over boosted. Now this was left for 7 - 10 days and the doming didn’t go down!! So I just glued it using BTY chack glue, which just wasn’t up for the job!!
it peeled within 2 minutes !!
So I cleaned off the glue from the blade and gave it a light sand, removed the glue from the sponge, applied 2 layers of Chack to blade and sponge, re glued and just weighted down the bat with about 5 or 6 heavy books and a 2ltr bottle full of vegetable oil !!! Then left it where it was for 24 hrs !!!
Cut the rubber the following day, this was in early April during start of Lockdown here, the rubber is still in good shape and hasn’t peeled off, even though it was extremely springy!!
 
says Table tennis clown
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Hi,
DHS No15 is designed for gluing DHS and other Chinese rubbers, which are generally always boosted
This glue can be used if the rubbers are glued while still domed or left to go down. It’s a strong glue.
I weighted the blade down for about 10 minutes then cut the rubber. No separation of rubber from blade usually the rubber will ‘peel’ itself off early doors, before the glue has ‘gone off’.
if the boost was higher, I would have weighted down for longer to allow the glue to go off for longer.
Revoultion have a racket clamp designed for this reason. May be worth getting.

to be honest, the doming was / is, what I would class as medium strength.

My first attempt at boosting was a sheet of DHS H3 (std sheet)
with 3 layers of Falco LTB this resulted in a high strength doming, probably over boosted. Now this was left for 7 - 10 days and the doming didn’t go down!! So I just glued it using BTY chack glue, which just wasn’t up for the job!!
it peeled within 2 minutes !!
So I cleaned off the glue from the blade and gave it a light sand, removed the glue from the sponge, applied 2 layers of Chack to blade and sponge, re glued and just weighted down the bat with about 5 or 6 heavy books and a 2ltr bottle full of vegetable oil !!! Then left it where it was for 24 hrs !!!
Cut the rubber the following day, this was in early April during start of Lockdown here, the rubber is still in good shape and hasn’t peeled off, even though it was extremely springy!!


Thank you kindly for this information. After using XVT sheets in the last couple of years i have recently started to use Revolution 3 glue and i am happy with it. I did not buy the clamp they sell but made myself a contraption that works equally well. I have never done any boosting of rubbers because i could not see the use of it. I am quite a mediocre player so have not had the need of getting top -performance out of my equipment. However, i am a bit of a EJ so might try boosting soon : "just because I can"" ;););)
 
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says toooooo much choice!!
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Thank you kindly for this information. After using XVT sheets in the last couple of years i have recently started to use Revolution 3 glue and i am happy with it. I did not buy the clamp they sell but made myself a contraption that works equally well. I have never done any boosting of rubbers because i could not see the use of it. I am quite a mediocre player so have not had the need of getting top -performance out of my equipment. However, i am a bit of a EJ so might try boosting soon : "just because I can"" ;););)

Same here, Revo glue is very good, you can get it in different viscosities as well.

if you are trying for the first time to boost, and are a bit of an EJ like me, then get a couple of cheap blades to use for testing, you can then put boosted ( differing number of coats) and un-boosted sheets on the same blade to get a direct comparison to how different they feel and play. This will give you an idea of what will happen when you boost a more expensive rubber, if you choose to!!!
Try with a cheap rubber as well, like the one I’m using in the test.
Also get a couple of makes of booster, it seams one may work better than the other on certain sponges.

for €10 the rubber I chose, so far looks to be great value, the quality looks good, it’s reasonably tacky and I think it will produce good spin levels, may be a little slow, but we’ll see

I just think this is FUN!! For me, it brings an extra dimension to Table Tennis!!!
 
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Red sheet measured this morning still the same at 167 x 170mm
C4F95C8B-1446-45EB-A9C9-399C1681AB56.jpg

doming is starting to become less ‘stiff’ and if you push the dome down it now slips down rather than springing back.

A4C559C1-7F1D-449D-9947-3B5E99D8B9B8.jpg
now the booster coats are dry, the ‘true’ doming can be seen by laying the sheet on the sponge rather than the rubber.
The reason I say ‘True’ doming is because you can stand the sheet like an arch and move the sides touching the surface and it usually stays put, when you lay it as above, then the curl present is more unnaturally natural !!!!!
The reason we tend to stand like an arch is because the sponge is wet at first, and this is the easiest way of keeping the whole sheet clean !!!
So when the sheet has laid flat when laid on the sponge, no curling, that’s when it will be glued.
 
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