Yes, but did you try very heavy and very flexy all-wood blades?
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I've had very brief episodes (Tibhar Lebesson, Tibhar Mach), but don't recall using one for a long period of time. I much prefer a little stiffer blades. Don't really like how they feel.
Well, that's also a very important factor
I also prefer a bit less vibration and a more stable and accurate blade
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I remember a lot of people favoring Ma Lin Extra Offensive for chinese rubbers before the 40+ era. And that's a 6 mm 5-ply with hard outers. But I guess you would need something a bit stiffer and faster now depending on your skill.
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Well, that's also a very important factor
I also prefer a bit less vibration and a more stable and accurate blade
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Tbh I favor any blade that feels good to me. Having a good easy to digest diet makes a bigger difference to me than even the best blade on a planet would. I would settle on using whatever feels good and focus to perfect the user, not the gear.
I am guilty of EJing. But I urge to not give to forums fueled EJing. If one wants to try something new, I suggest just going for it. It won't make you a better player, it might make you a happier person if you are into it. If someone wants to try Chinese rubber just go for it. If you are using a slower blade, just use a lot of booster.
Also if you want to use Chinese hard tacky rubber you will encounter a topic of boosting. I personally suggest not using tacky rubbers unboosted.
Of course, I agree with it all.
And I'm like that myself, and not just with tabletennis
Personal experience is a lot more valuable than someone else telling you what would be the best choice, but sometimes if you don't know where to go, it can be nice with a bit of direction.
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I agree. My last statement was partially true. Many rubber can beat a 39 H3. But with 40-41 degree hardness and proper technique, H3 reign in spin and crazy low second bounce.
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toooooo much choice!!
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From what I’ve read on ‘Ping Sunday’ many Chinese coaches will give youngsters an all wood all round, possible all + blade as a starting blade. To ‘feel’ the strokes. Learn to spin 1st, as this gives control, speed comes with improving technique (brushing) and physique becoming stronger.
Movement drills , really build the right footwork and weight transfer early on which is the basis of the techniques and this is what produces the power, So when at a young age, they are able to produce strong fast high spin balls with what we would consider a slowish blade / set up.
Rubbers are upgraded first , and only when the coaches says so.
blade is a later upgrade and again only when the coach advises. Possibly to Off- or Off.
This is what I’ve read, so no experience of this personally, so if there’s anyone out there that has been brought up through the Chinese coaching system from junior onwards it would be great to actually hear from you and get some 1st hand feedback!!!
Once at the highest level I guess they choose what they want (but still take advice from the coaches)!!!
Movement drills , really build the right footwork and weight transfer early on which is the basis of the techniques and this is what produces the power, So when at a young age, they are able to produce strong fast high spin balls with what we would consider a slowish blade / set up.
Rubbers are upgraded first , and only when the coaches says so.
blade is a later upgrade and again only when the coach advises. Possibly to Off- or Off.
This is what I’ve read, so no experience of this personally, so if there’s anyone out there that has been brought up through the Chinese coaching system from junior onwards it would be great to actually hear from you and get some 1st hand feedback!!!
Once at the highest level I guess they choose what they want (but still take advice from the coaches)!!!
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Footwork footwork footwork
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I agree with mostly what’s been stated here re: body transfer, good spin, power potential, short game etc...
What I don’t agree with is transitioning from ESN to “hybrid” and then to Chinese.
I would say, just go for it and start adjusting right away. I went the “transitional” route- but I feel like it took quite long and I wish I just threw on a commercial H3 or TG2 from the beginning because my growth has been ten-fold since then.
Will it be challenging? Yes- but stick through it and you will learn a lot. Even if you decide to switch back the long run- you’ll have understood a bit more about body transfer and spin. When I say spin- I mean also reading spin because your rubbers will be way more spin sensitive and it will bite you in the ass. This experience and knowledge will help you regardless of rubber type.
You learn by failing. Fail hard, fail fast and don’t look back.
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What I don’t agree with is transitioning from ESN to “hybrid” and then to Chinese.
I would say, just go for it and start adjusting right away. I went the “transitional” route- but I feel like it took quite long and I wish I just threw on a commercial H3 or TG2 from the beginning because my growth has been ten-fold since then.
Will it be challenging? Yes- but stick through it and you will learn a lot. Even if you decide to switch back the long run- you’ll have understood a bit more about body transfer and spin. When I say spin- I mean also reading spin because your rubbers will be way more spin sensitive and it will bite you in the ass. This experience and knowledge will help you regardless of rubber type.
You learn by failing. Fail hard, fail fast and don’t look back.
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Yes tacky rubbers are not for the faint hearted. It makes you breathless more often. You sweat more. But you will grow stronger and faster. The quality of your shots will go up over time. Give it a go. Nothing to lose.
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You need a strong arm aside from proper brush contact on the ball to fully utilize rubbers such as H3. . These are skills essential in using chinese rubbers.
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I think it is more complicated than that. I know that you are very knowledgeable person, and have ITTF coach certificates which prove your knowledge, but what you said conflicts a bit with my experience. Not fully, but a bit.
Since I injured my arm during a motorcycle incident (it has fallen on me when I was standing still) I had to change my tt habits a bit. I tend to treat my arm more as a clock pendulum, use my body to swing it and let it be relaxed, while being somewhat successful at it (much better consistency and aim, the power difference is debatable), I usually involve arm muscles just before the contact to add that tiny more bit of acceleration.
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It's just my opinion. I have tried many Chinese rubbers on several different types of blades. The blades that the, ex DHS Hurricane 3 41 deg, have worked best on for me is always stiffer ALC or ordinary carbon blades. I tried the Nittaku Sieger PK50 (that I thought could be a bit like H3N), first on my Yinhe MC-4 carbon blade. It didn't play at all as the H3N, but I thought it was a totally different rubber placed on a fast all wood blade. It kind of came alive on a wooden blade. Earlier I have used H3N and Skyline NEO's on an old Stiga Allround blade, and that worked as well fine, but then I used only the softer sponge 39 deg.
Now I'm not an expert in any way, but playing in the same way with H3N 41 deg on Yinhe MC-4 and TSP Reflex 50 Award Off makes a huge difference between the blades. I think that the TSP blade is a bit faster than the Yinhe, but there are vibrations in the TSP, that perhaps makes a softer sponge fit it better?
I totally agree that beginners should use an allround wooden blade, and a slower Chinese rubber like 729 Focus III Snipe 42/44 deg to learn basic technique. Let the tensors wait a year or two...
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Yep. That's my opinion as well. When you hit right, H3N gives a better kick than all other Chinese rubbers I've tried so far...
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Then perhaps, the arm doesn't have to be that strong. I guess when your body turns, it catapults your arm and gives it enough speed to perform good enough?
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I think that is what is happening. I may explain it inaccurately. But since then I distributed, and limited strain of my body. I think that is, or is close to implementing power from the ground. (this takes more time though, I still do quick arm movements if I have not enough time, but its more flat drive than loop)
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I think the key to using H3 is to have an "explosive" arm which catapults the racket itself like an extension. And by doing so you'll have the exact effect on the ball that will catapult it as long as your arm will do the same although this requires the perfect timing to be always in the position and that's often very difficult thing to do to be in the perfect position.
But once in a good position and with a good technique H3 allows me to counter opponents top spin by engaging the ball right through the sponge all the way to the wood of the blade itself.
But also at the same time I can only use the surface for minimum brush contact when looping heavy underspin balls that are below the table. If I'd done that using any other fast rubbers with the catapult effect in them, the ball most of the time would fly outside the table or not have as much as spin as with H3 which I can make a lot more bigger swing with my arm when looping the ball up and still get the ball on the table.
But once in a good position and with a good technique H3 allows me to counter opponents top spin by engaging the ball right through the sponge all the way to the wood of the blade itself.
But also at the same time I can only use the surface for minimum brush contact when looping heavy underspin balls that are below the table. If I'd done that using any other fast rubbers with the catapult effect in them, the ball most of the time would fly outside the table or not have as much as spin as with H3 which I can make a lot more bigger swing with my arm when looping the ball up and still get the ball on the table.
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toooooo much choice!!
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I think that ‘explosive’ is a pretty accurate description, acceleration into the ball with max racket speed at contact is desirable for max speed and spin
Of course, you could have the fastest stroke going, combined with the worst timing and ........!!!
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