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I have had a few coaching sessions and while my individual offensive shots are all pretty good I don't seem to be able to convert this into wins. What I find is that I have greater success reverting to defensive play; even with a totally offensive setup. This has prompted me to consider converting my backhand to defensive play to feed my offensive forehand.
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The coaches didn't do you much good then.
If I were your coach I would take videos and keep track of how you lost points and work on the things that where you lost the most. If your flaws are obvious you don't need a coach to see them.
I have 3 areas I know where I need improvement. Sure there are other things but when these 3 items are the direct or indirect cause of losing points then I know I must work on them.
Always go for the low hanging fruit first.
One more thing. I have found that you get a certain about of "TT savy" from experience. You learn how to read opponents and watch for their weaknesses.
Don't give up. Make a video.
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Lots of people still play with pips, and still win. If you enjoy it and it fits your style, give it a go! For amateur play I don't think long pips is a death sentence!
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Thanks. So what rubber would you suggest bearing in mind that I am coming from playing with moderately fast rubbers on a carbon blade and that I will be using the Dr Neubauer blade and want to achieve aggressive blocks and pushes from close to the table. Not worried about the cost of rubber. Also OX or 0.9mm sponge for this type of play.
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0X if you are push blocking and want "spin reversal"
0.9mm for chopping or hitting.
Don't spend a lot of money for your first LP. RITC 755 is a good place to start. The 0X is difficult to put on the blade because it is so thin. Look for YouTube videos on how to put on 0X LP. I have used the waxed paper and the wine bottle roller methods. Both work.
I also like the Dawei long pips.
One more thing. Playing with LPs take patience. A lot has to do with knowing when the pips will bend and when they won't. If you hit through the ball chances are you won't bend the pips and you will get more "spin reversal" . If you make a chopping or brushing motion the pips will bend and grip a little more. Also the pips will grip more as the impact speed increases just because there is more force from the impact and the coefficient of friction.
You have to learn to twiddle so you can hit with the inverted rubber. Hitting with LPs is a challenge.
0.9mm for chopping or hitting.
Don't spend a lot of money for your first LP. RITC 755 is a good place to start. The 0X is difficult to put on the blade because it is so thin. Look for YouTube videos on how to put on 0X LP. I have used the waxed paper and the wine bottle roller methods. Both work.
I also like the Dawei long pips.
One more thing. Playing with LPs take patience. A lot has to do with knowing when the pips will bend and when they won't. If you hit through the ball chances are you won't bend the pips and you will get more "spin reversal" . If you make a chopping or brushing motion the pips will bend and grip a little more. Also the pips will grip more as the impact speed increases just because there is more force from the impact and the coefficient of friction.
You have to learn to twiddle so you can hit with the inverted rubber. Hitting with LPs is a challenge.
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Basmundo if you believe that using well LP it's easy, let it go, to play well with LP you need a lot of technical like for inverted or more.
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Thanks for the advice broken ball. I will go for OX and see how it goes. I may go the whole way and use Grass D.Techs though, especially as I am used to fast reverse rubbers. I am also practicing twiddling to enable me to use my reverse rubber for backhand topspin.
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Hi merlin. Thanks for the tip. I realise that I will need plenty of practice to be effective and will probably get myself a robot to help.
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Depends how much of a shock you want! D.tecs is generally regarded as the most difficult to use lp, but the hardest for opponents to handle. So going from inverted to d.tecs will take a lot of adjustments!
If you can mentally tolerate that, I'd say go with d.tecs or if you want slightly less extreme... dr. N troublemaker, joola cwx, or sauer hellfire
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Hello LordPippington. Thank you for the input which I greatly value is coming from your experience. Something that I do not have with long pips.
I have been looking at the stats for the 3 rubbers that you have suggested as preferable alternatives to D.Tecs as follows:
Trouble Maker is for the plastic ball and ideal for close to the table blocking & chop blocking, and according to my supplier has a speed of rating of 41 and control of 72.
Joola CWX is also for the plastic ball and also ideal for close to the table blocking & chop blocking, and according to my supplier has a speed of rating of 58 and control of 68.
Hellfire was a pre-plastic ball rubber and it states that the OX version is good for close to the table blocking & chop blocking, and according to my supplier has a speed of rating of 41 and control of 70.
D.Tecs is for the plastic ball and is ideal for close to the table blocking & chop blocking, and according to my supplier has a speed of rating of 60 and control of 70.
As a matter of interest, when buying the Phenomenon blade from Dr Neubauer I asked them what rubber they suggested for my requirements using that blade and they suggested the Allround Premium 2 which I note has almost the same properties as Troublemaker with a speed of rating of 38 and control of 75. IE. very slightly slower with resulting slightly higher control. Do you have any knowledge of this rubber?
A couple of questions please:
Would using D.Tecs with say 0.9mm sponge tame it that little bit to give more control or would that compromise close to the table performance blocking/chop blocking?
For the three rubbers that you suggested, would you recommend all of these as the OX versions?
Do you have a preference among the three D.Tecs alternatives?
Many thanks again.
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Wanting a d.tecs alternative is like asking for a tenergy alternative. Other rubbers do similar stuff, but none can replicate all of the qualities. A cheaper one that pushblocker uses is giant dragon talon
https://revspin.net/pips/giant-dragon-dragon-talon.html
If you use sponge, you probably need to be hitting/attacking more. Otherwise not much point. And if you're going to be hitting much, most likely a grippier long pip would be better.
The strength of OX d.tec type is against incoming back spin. You can attack those pretty fiercely with a bump shot that comes over as top spin.
https://revspin.net/pips/giant-dragon-dragon-talon.html
If you use sponge, you probably need to be hitting/attacking more. Otherwise not much point. And if you're going to be hitting much, most likely a grippier long pip would be better.
The strength of OX d.tec type is against incoming back spin. You can attack those pretty fiercely with a bump shot that comes over as top spin.
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Hey LordPippington,
Just a little update... Pushblocker uses the National Team version, which isn't available anymore. I've only found one place still selling it, and only in one color.
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Well, there ya go! Probably not a great alternative then. I've never used them so it was on his recommendation that I recalled talon. To me d.tecs is the tenergy of ox blocking pips. Others don't really try being different, but seek to replicate what it does. Only downside is the speed and weirdness for both people... which is also its upside!
Saviga monster is another I see used a bit for blocking.
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GT National Team also plays very differently than D.Tecs. I have 2 identical blades, 1 with National Team, and the other with D.TecS. The National Team is a much slower rubber. PB also feels he is able to return the ball lower with it. Too bad they don’t seem to be making it anymore...
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This statement never had made sense to me since one can simply angle the paddle a bit to get the desired trajectory.
This is a 2 minute video of me playing with LP. I don't play with blocking LP often anymore.
I was using a Firewall+ and GD Talon 0X. I make some good short blocks with the LP.
https://deltamotion.com/peter/TableTennis/Jeff and Peter with Blocking LP 2min.mp4
I would prefer a slower LP. Sometimes the opponent would simply hit the ball so hard that it bounced of my paddle uncontrollably. Sometimes I would twiddle to block the ball with inverted but not in the video.
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I will start with easy LP, that are not dangerous for the opponent but let you learn how works the LP, after you are increasing the LP technical you can increase with more difficult to play LP that are more dangerous for the opponent.
Other important thing is the blade: I use Stiga All Round WRB if it's enough fast for your FH will be perfect for you.
Other important thing is the blade: I use Stiga All Round WRB if it's enough fast for your FH will be perfect for you.
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Do you know where I can buy this as I understand that it is hard to get. Alternatively how about Sauer and Troger Hellfire, Dr Neubauer Allround Premium 2 or Troublemaker?
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