Spinniest but fastest all-wood blade that you've tried.

nymose said:

Yeah sometimes you have to find the right "language" for someone else to understand what you're trying to say. Usually I need it to be clear and to the point for me to understand without all the small details. And it seems like most people have it like that. Funny, because I myself like to descripe things down to its smaller details. I've been learning to narrowing it more down to it's core. Still not perfect, but it is what it is

Btw, english is not my main language, so that might have something to say. I do understand it perfectly well, but talking/writing it myself is a little different. I probably don't use the right words for the right contexts sometimes. That could create some confusion. I don't know.

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Yep. But you do quite well particularly given English is not your main language.

nymose said:

Ma lin carbon?

Though this isn't a thread made directly in search for a blade
Sendt fra min SM-A202F med Tapatalk

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I dont know this blade but if You really dont want any carbon in your blade You can try Butterfly Andrej Mazunov or Primorac. Andrej Mazunov is faster but in my opinion Primorac is a better blade. Andrej Mazunov is one of the fastest all wood blades but surely not the best overall.

NextLevel said:

That was when I still thought spin was effective. It doesn't get you quite what it used to with these ABS plastic balls. Also I step back a bit more often now. Hard to loop the ball with a short stroke without knees with those slower blades. Even worse if you are blocking a couple of feet behind the table.

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Ah. Looks like you now are closer to Richard McAfee's public position... which is in the spirit of "Spin is nice, but speed is king"

I think you still would like Nate's Alaskan and Koto outer wood blades (That I would rate in the mid to upper OFF class) and I think you would like the handles. I got one of each extra to pass around, so why not have you try 'em? Might have a few uniforms or other stuff to toss in, you would find someone to make good use of them...

UpSideDownCarl said:

Yep. But you do quite well particularly given English is not your main language.

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I'm gunna say this...

... to anyone who wants to criticize the English of a non-native English person writting on the forums, one should FIRST spend the YEARS and BRAIN CELLS that are LOST FOREVER in the struggle to learn a language to a working functional proficiency... which is not even the level to operate on NYM is at. (His is way higher) Not very many Americans actually do that (spend the years to learn), but are quick to nitpick. (and Carl is not nitpicking)

If anyone who knows some German would go to Pimp My Blade TT Forum, and look at some of my posts where I wrote in German at any length, you might be violently wretching your recently injested Orange Juice out of laughing surprise and have large enough quantities of it painfully escaping out our nose as you pound the floor not believing anyone could write so silly... and my German level was professional working level, which is a level plus below NYM's English.

Der_Echte said:

Ah. Looks like you now are closer to Richard McAfee's public position... which is in the spirit of "Spin is nice, but speed is king"

I think you still would like Nate's Alaskan and Koto outer wood blades (That I would rate in the mid to upper OFF class) and I think you would like the handles. I got one of each extra to pass around, so why not have you try 'em? Might have a few uniforms or other stuff to toss in, you would find someone to make good use of them...

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Well, let's just say that I am playing people good enough to handle my spin, so it can't be all I have. Moreover, the blocking capabilities of the Mazunov are unparalleled. Just saying...

ArturS said:

I dont know this blade but if You really dont want any carbon in your blade You can try Butterfly Andrej Mazunov or Primorac. Andrej Mazunov is faster but in my opinion Primorac is a better blade. Andrej Mazunov is one of the fastest all wood blades but surely not the best overall.

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I would beg to differ for a serious high level offensive player. Samsonov comes to mind...

NextLevel said:

Well, let's just say that I am playing people good enough to handle my spin, so it can't be all I have. Moreover, the blocking capabilities of the Mazunov are unparalleled. Just saying...

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Well, I guess NL is too modet to show hiz latest vidz. I would wager some Cheeze-its that his play style is to be likened to unleashing the Kraken. My Rambo Loop style is likely outdated with what NL is doing.

This is a natural progression. When you play better players who can handle your stuff, or existing players begin to handle it, one must develop more efficient or different, more effective offense or tactics.

That's always funny when we talk about wood and spin ;-), our friend dwell is always there !!
IMO and as UpsidedownCarl explained as I felt in love with hinoki when I was young I would say my Klampar-H, without the speed glue and with the speed glue more and the 38mm celluloid...Sriver fx max + speed glue + klampar-H was the top for me.

Gwenved said:

That's always funny when we talk about wood and spin ;-), our friend dwell is always there !!
IMO and as UpsidedownCarl explained as I felt in love with hinoki when I was young I would say my Klampar-H, without the speed glue and with the speed glue more and the 38mm celluloid...Sriver fx max + speed glue + klampar-H was the top for me.

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You mean like this:



[emoji2]

Sent from my NSA SpyPhone from Sector 13D-SR13Z74 Sub Level 29X Fort Meade, Maryland

Acoustic

UpSideDownCarl said:

You mean like this:

[emoji2]

Sent from my NSA SpyPhone from Sector 13D-SR13Z74 Sub Level 29X Fort Meade, Maryland

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Beauty!

If you want to sell it you know where... ;-)

Hi Carl,
if you want to sell please contact me.
Thanks

vik2000 said:

Acoustic

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I would agree this is a very spinny yet pretty decently fast blade in my experience comparing to clipper, Yasaka Sweden & YEO.

Clipper is also a nice combination of speed/spin in my opinion.

Regarding the material science of the blade composition- I really wish I could speak more to it as it’s really an interesting area of study. I just wish there were more objective studies out there. Anyone have links / info that dives deeper into this?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

yogi_bear said:

The point is, it is the rubber doing the work mostly not the blade. Even if you use a Primorac carbon you can still produce tons of spin with a good rubber but needs higher level of skill.

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Yes! In fact when brushing the blade isn't doing much at all except holding the rubber. Listen to the difference in sound between a good brush stroke and a flat hit. The brush stroke will be a lot quieter which means the amplitude of the vibrations is MUCH less.

Another issue I have is that no one really knows the amplitude of vibration of their blade. A while back I posted a video of a ball hitting a Toxic 5. The Toxic 5 is visibly vibrating. I have other videos of my Firewall+ hitting the ball at even a higher speed and no vibration is detectable on a high speed camera. There is a sound but how much of it comes from the wood, the rubber or the ball?

Spin is caused by an impulse tangential to the ball. An impulse is integral of force over time. If the force is constant then it is simply force x time.

If you want spin then learn how to brush the ball.

Wow. This thread is massive! I missed the fun completely I ignored the thread exactly because of its title. (Hell, why would I care about the fastest stuff on earth I thought).
May I say something in between the elephants (at least counting the volume of texts), knowing that I don’t actually know any science around this. (So I’ve got my disclaimer straight on )

The actual loop is not pure spin as we’d like to imagine it. And we all actually know this. If we make the ball spin a ton without “mashing” it at the same time it won’t ever go to the other side. The ball trajectory is not determined by spin alone. It’s the balance between spin and speed in relation. This is probably why nymose think the flex helps curve the ball up. In reality, if the wood is hard, and you have the same stroke, you probably add the “smashing” force relatively more than the “spining” force. You have more spin but even more “smash” so the ball stays quite flat. Same for the kick. It needs both “smashing” and “spin” to kick deep. Hence you feel like hard wood makes more spin (which is true) but also “flattens the curve”.

To me, after trying Viscaria, Victas ZX Gear In (innerforce ALC/ZLC Limba) and Yasaka Reinforce AC (innerforce ALC Koto), it feels like hard wood makes more spin but it’s so easy to over “smash” so your contact has to be very thin, but not too thin (precise). If I did it right, it’s like hell. It’s just too hard to do right. So the “dampening” effect that Carl says mostly impact that “smash” thing, especially at contact point. The blade just dampens the tiny extra smash you make when contacting a little too thick, giving room for you to spin more easily.

This very same fundamental applies to tacky non-bouncy hard rubber. I’ve seen quite a few measurements proving that Chinese rubbers are “craps” but somehow it helps the Chinese make more spin. Because at speed, it’s actually more forgiving. It dampens the incoming force. Naturally your body adjusts to that without knowing that you’re actually putting in more force (by a slightly longer swing for example, or a heavier push on the leg)

Gwenved said:

Hi Carl,
if you want to sell please contact me.
Thanks

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That was my first real blade. I have had it since 1991. No price would be adequate compensation for the memories.