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  1. Basmundo is offline
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    #1

    Gluing OX rubbers

    OX rubbers appear to be notoriously difficult to handle when gluing to a blade as they are very flimsy. Has anyone tried the method of using a glue sheet stuck to the pimpled side to render the rubber more handleable during the gluing process, only to be removed after the blade is glued to the blade? Also is there likely to be a problem with glue residue from the glue sheet affecting the top face of the pimples?

    Do you have a foolproof method that you use and could recommend?

    It would seem that D.tecS OX now comes pre-glued. Does anyone know if the properties remain the same as the previous non-glued issue?
    Last edited by Basmundo; 11-27-2020 at 07:06 AM.

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    #2

    Gluing OX rubbers

    I personally like glue sheets as they are very simple to use.

    The one that works the best for me is the Nittaku Nori sheet. I’ve never had an issue with it damaging the blade, and when I’ve removed a long pips rubber from a blade, the glue sheet has always stayed on the rubber so it can be easily reused on another blade. No need to clean the blade after removal. That’s just been my personal experience.

    I know some other long pips users don’t like glue sheets as they feel the glue sheet alters the performance of the long pips. That is quite possible, and if it is the case, then I’m just not good enough to notice the difference. Having said that, I would love to have 2 identical blades, one long pips applied with a glue sheet, and another simply glued, and see if they can tell the difference.

    On a side point, I’ve never heard of Grass D.TecS coming pre-glued.
    Last edited by PushSmasher; 11-27-2020 at 02:15 PM.

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by PushSmasher
    I personally like glue sheets as they are very simple to use.

    The one that works the best for me is the Nittaku Nori sheet. I’ve never had an issue with it damaging the blade, and when I’ve removed a long pips rubber from a blade, the glue sheet has always stayed on the rubber so it can be easily reused on another blade. No need to clean the blade after removal. That’s just been my personal al experience.

    I know some other long pips users don’t like glue sheets as they feel the glue sheet alters the performance of the long pips. That is quite possible, and if it is the case, then I’m just not good enough to notice the difference. Having said that, I would love to have 2 identical blades, one long pips applied with a glue sheet, and another simply glued, and see if they can tell the difference.

    On a side point, I’ve never heard of Grass D.TecS coming pre-glued.
    There is a new one pre-glued. https://www.tabletennis11.com/other_...rass-d-tecs-gs

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    Last edited by merlin el mago; 11-27-2020 at 02:22 PM.

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by merlin el mago
    Cool.

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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by PushSmasher
    I personally like glue sheets as they are very simple to use.

    The one that works the best for me is the Nittaku Nori sheet. I’ve never had an issue with it damaging the blade, and when I’ve removed a long pips rubber from a blade, the glue sheet has always stayed on the rubber so it can be easily reused on another blade. No need to clean the blade after removal. That’s just been my personal experience.

    I know some other long pips users don’t like glue sheets as they feel the glue sheet alters the performance of the long pips. That is quite possible, and if it is the case, then I’m just not good enough to notice the difference. Having said that, I would love to have 2 identical blades, one long pips applied with a glue sheet, and another simply glued, and see if they can tell the difference.

    On a side point, I’ve never heard of Grass D.TecS coming pre-glued.
    I have managed to find the Nittaku Nori Sheet+ but wondered if these are the ones that you are referring to as they are advertised being "strong type" and I wondered if these could damage the blade on removal compared with yours?

    Also what do you think of using the glue sheet stuck to the pimples to keep the rubber rigid while glueing?
    Last edited by Basmundo; 11-27-2020 at 02:57 PM.

  6. merlin el mago is offline
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    #6
    I don't recommend use glue sheets because stiff the blade & become faster.

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    #7
    Quote Originally Posted by merlin el mago
    I don't recommend use glue sheets because stiff the blade & become faster.
    Interesting ,thanks. Not something I had considered.

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    #8
    Can anyone recommend the best method to keep the OX sheet of rubber under control to prevent it buckling when using water based glue on both faces.

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    #9
    Links to 2 different techniques to glue OX LP sheet to a blade. Take your time doing it and it will come out fine. BTW, which LP did you end up purchasing.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...XrFZKbBRI6ZNrT

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1606656205500

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    #10
    I find it much easier having 4 hands holding it.

    I get my wife to hold the top portion up just enough so it doesn’t adhere to the blade. Need to be careful though that it isn’t pulled too tight. I then adhere my end by the blade and slowing roll towards the top, all the while my wife is holding her end up. I’ve never had an issue.

    I like the other examples suggested here if you don’t have a second set of hands...

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by NoFootwork
    Links to 2 different techniques to glue OX LP sheet to a blade. Take your time doing it and it will come out fine. BTW, which LP did you end up purchasing.

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...XrFZKbBRI6ZNrT

    https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&sour...=1606656205500
    Hello NoFootwork. Many thanks for the reply and the video suggestions about the gluing. The Revolution No. 3 glue seems to be a little different to others. Is that what you use? I have Butterfly Free Chack Pro if you think that will do.
    I went for D.tecS OX in the end. I thought that if I went for anything with less "disruption" I might regret it so I felt it best to get used to the ultimate. I also am used to fairly fast reverse rubbers and wondered if anything too slow like Hellfire might be difficult to get used to. I am also hoping that the contrast between the forehand rubber (Dynaryz ACC) and the D.tecS will not be too great when twiddling.

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    #12

    Gluing OX rubbers

    Quote Originally Posted by Basmundo
    Hello NoFootwork. Many thanks for the reply and the video suggestions about the gluing. The Revolution No. 3 glue seems to be a little different to others. Is that what you use? I have Butterfly Free Chack Pro if you think that will do.
    I went for D.tecS OX in the end. I thought that if I went for anything with less "disruption" I might regret it so I felt it best to get used to the ultimate. I also am used to fairly fast reverse rubbers and wondered if anything too slow like Hellfire might be difficult to get used to. I am also hoping that the contrast between the forehand rubber (Dynaryz ACC) and the D.tecS will not be too great when twiddling.
    Great choice with the Grass D.TecS. I use Butterfly Free Chack II as well, so I don’t think you should have an issue.

    Regarding hoping that the contrast between Dynaryz ACC, or any other inverted rubber and D.TecS for that matter, won’t be too great, I’m sorry to say it will be. The difference isn’t so much the speed as the angle of your blade when hitting, and the types of strokes you will need to do with the long pips. But that’s the fun part. . The whole idea is to have fun, right? Now you get to learn new skills. And even if you ultimately find it’s not what you want to do long term, you’ll play much better against opponents with long pips, as you’ll understand them much better.

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    Last edited by PushSmasher; 11-29-2020 at 02:11 PM.

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    #13
    Yes, I use revolution no. 3. Before that I used tear mender, but that had a coagulation problem. I've never used Butterfly free chack. It should be fine to use. Train with the D.Tecs and good luck on your LP journey.

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    Last edited by NoFootwork; 11-29-2020 at 02:02 PM.

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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by PushSmasher
    Great choice with the Grass D.TecS. I use Butterfly Free Chack II as well, so I don’t think you should have an issue.

    Regarding hoping that the contrast between Dynaryz ACC, or any other inverted rubber and D.TecS for that matter, won’t be too great, I’m sorry to say it will be. The difference isn’t so much the speed as the angle of your blade when hitting, and the types of strokes you will need to do with the long pips. But that’s the fun part. . The whole idea is to have fun, right? Now you get to learn new skills. And even if you ultimately find it’s not what you want to do long term, you’ll play much better against opponents with long pips, as you’ll understand them much better.
    Thanks PushSmasher, I appreciate your positive comments.

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    #15
    Quote Originally Posted by NoFootwork
    Yes, I use revolution no. 3. Before that I used tear mender, but that had a coagulation problem. I've never used Butterfly free chack. It should be fine to use. Train with the D.Tecs and good luck on your LP journey.
    Thanks. Will let you know how it goes.

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    #16
    I have used two methods successfully.
    One is to tape the rubber, on two corners, to a wine bottle and roll it onto the paddle.
    The other is to use wax paper between the rubber and the paddle and pull the wax paper out slowly as the rubber is pushed down on the blade.
    I think you can see both methods done on YouTube.

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    #17
    Quote Originally Posted by brokenball
    I have used two methods successfully.
    One is to tape the rubber, on two corners, to a wine bottle and roll it onto the paddle.
    The other is to use wax paper between the rubber and the paddle and pull the wax paper out slowly as the rubber is pushed down on the blade.
    I think you can see both methods done on YouTube.
    Thanks brokenball. I like the sound of the first method best after consuming something from Martha's Vineyard!

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    #18
    I would still like to hear from anyone who has tried the method of gluing OX rubber by sticking a glue sheet onto the pimpled playing surface while gluing the rubber and blade with water based glue. I am interested if this works OK and if there is a problem with any residue left on the pimples when the glue sheet is removed.

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