Tack of the rubber gone

says toooooo much choice!!
says toooooo much choice!!
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Never used the gold version of Battle 2, but have used the standard & provincial versions, these retained their tackiness very well.

Strange that your gold version has lost all tack, especially as I would think the top sheet is the same with the variation being the sponge ?? (not totally sure about that)

Some other tacky rubbers I’ve used have had tackiness reduced (usually after 3-14 days) but not lost tack completely.
The only other thing that comes to mind is whether it’s a legit rubber??

The garage I play in is quite dusty as well, regardless of whether I’m using a tacky or Euro top sheet there are always impact dust spots on the rubbers. So I clean regularly when practicing width damp sponge or as others have said breathe on the rubber etc. Once a week I clean the top sheets with a rubber cleaner.
I always cover any type of top sheet with a protective film (after cleaning)or keep the whole bat in a large sealable plastic ‘zip’ bag ( cover top sheet and ‘seal bag to surface’ squeeze out any excess air before zipping up, this works very well with tacky rubbers as the plastic bags sticks well to them, I don’t use this method for non-tacky rubbers.)

it will be interesting what Kuba reports back with, and whether his are still tacky.
 
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Not sure if you’ve used tacky rubber before. If not, then maybe just the fact that the tackiness goes away pretty fast in the first weeks and then fade. If the ball still stops bouncing on the rubber, it’s normal. Hot dry weather also kills rubbers very fast as I learnt during our lockdown 1.0 so keep it concealed. Brazil is quite hot now I guess.
 
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Not sure if you’ve used tacky rubber before. If not, then maybe just the fact that the tackiness goes away pretty fast in the first weeks and then fade. If the ball still stops bouncing on the rubber, it’s normal. Hot dry weather also kills rubbers very fast as I learnt during our lockdown 1.0 so keep it concealed. Brazil is quite hot now I guess.
I used a h3neo before and bought it some months before I got battle 2 but it still has some tackiness on it, and the battle 2 doesnt have any.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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So I used a wet sponge and cleaned the rubber as carl suggested and it got some tackiness but I guess that it will loose 5 minutes after I play

And, that is why, if you are playing somewhere dusty, you have to clean over and over and over and over.

If it is dust, and if it regains its tackiness after you clean it properly, it is not that it lost tackiness. It is that you let the rubber get much more dusty than a tacky rubber should get.

After every few points, you need to clean the topsheet if you are playing in a location that is dusty. Maybe you could say, any time you see dust on the topsheet, you need to clean it. Which may in fact be after almost every point.

The idea that you were only cleaning a tacky rubber after you finished playing, well, that rubber could have been holding a lot of dust. Particles stick to tacky rubbers. That is the nature of tacky rubbers. That is also why you need to clean them FREQUENTLY.
 
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And, that is why, if you are playing somewhere dusty, you have to clean over and over and over and over.

If it is dust, and if it regains its tackiness after you clean it properly, it is not that it lost tackiness. It is that you let the rubber get much more dusty than a tacky rubber should get.

After every few points, you need to clean the topsheet if you are playing in a location that is dusty. Maybe you could say, any time you see dust on the topsheet, you need to clean it. Which may in fact be after almost every point.

The idea that you were only cleaning a tacky rubber after you finished playing, well, that rubber could have been holding a lot of dust. Particles stick to tacky rubbers. That is the nature of tacky rubbers. That is also why you need to clean them FREQUENTLY.
Thank you
 
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The rubber will faster if it loses some tackiness.

My coach said to not clean the rubber with water because of the minerals on it, and clean ur with the cleaning foam or cleaning solution for tt rubbers.

I have been using water alone for 30 yrs as a cleaning agent for tqcky rubbers and it never turned bad. I do cover with plastic after air drying.
 
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EyyT... try this out.

Do a lemon juice and olive oli cleaning of topsheet. Wipe down with clean cloth. Get it all good and clean. Repeat if needed.

Rub some olive oil on topsheet. Make sure you use enough to make it shiny. Wipe some off if needed or rub more in if needed.

Press a sheet of plastic (cut a document protector if you do not have a protective sheet) onto the topsheet and let it stay that way overnight or a couple days. Remove plastic and start playing.

Like Carl has suggested, breath and wipe off topsheet if it gets dusty.

What I described is a way to rejuvinate a topsheet and restore tackiness.

Some tacky rubbers just need a water cleaning and afterwards, while rubber topsheet is still moist, you put on protective topsheet ensureing as much as possible is sticking to topsheet and leave overnight.

Night and Day difference.

PUN INTENDED.
 
says Aging is a killer
My coach said to not clean the rubber with water because of the minerals on it, and clean ur with the cleaning foam or cleaning solution for tt rubbers.


He's talking about before the match start or at the end. As others have said, the rubbers need cleaning frequently. During some matches this can be on every change of serve.
Eg, have you noticed that even in a supposedly clean environment, a brand new ball becomes mucky after even one game? Now think about how much muck will be on the sweet spot of your bat. That's why, especially tacky, rubbers need some sort of clean frequently.
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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My coach said to not clean the rubber with water because of the minerals on it, and clean ur with the cleaning foam or cleaning solution for tt rubbers.

I could leave this. I think TinyKin's answer is fine. Yogi's is fine as well.

Mineral content in water: this may depend on where you are and the mineral content in the water where you are. Your flag says Brazil but you said it is cold and the start of winter. So, as TinyKin pointed out, that would mean you are not in Brazil.

So here is the thing. Some places where there is a large mineral content in the water, the water could be problematic. But not most places.

And, if the water is problematic, then the chemicals in those cleaners should be more problematic. Because the chemicals and detergents in those cleaners definitely cause the rubber to oxidize faster which is usually a bigger issue than having mineral deposits on the topsheet because you did not wipe with the sponge properly.

In the end, you get to chose your own poison. Not cleaning and you are leaving dust on your topsheet causing you to think it has lost its tackiness (when it had not). Cleaning with TT cleaners cleans the rubbers and causes them to wear out quicker (not that much quicker, but a little faster). Water that does not have high mineral content is definitely the safest way to clean the rubber. But it is not perfect either. It also causes the topsheet to oxidize. It just does that exponentially slower than the cleaners TT companies sell. And if you are in a place where there are lots of minerals in the water (this is commonly called "Hard Water") then the mineral deposits could be an issue as well.

Choose which version of poison you want. If you are somewhere with hard water, you could use an inexpensive bottled/distilled water for cleaning the racket when you are not using moisture from your breath and the palm of your hand.

Clearly you were resistant to cleaning and wanted to think the rubber had lost its tackiness. When I got very very specific about how to clean and how much to clean, you discovered that your rubber had not lost its tackiness but was, in fact, dirty.

Now that you have more information, you get to decide what version of cleaning you want to use on your rubber. Or, if you want to go back to leaving the topsheet dirty so it has no tack. :)
 
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I've never been all that impressed with any 729 rubbers in terms of tackyness longevity. I'm sure someone has a story that's different but I'm just going off of what I've experienced.

That's why I generally stick with H3. For me it has the best tackyness and tends to keep it longer.

Having said that, I for a long time struggled with being disappointed with how virtually every tacky rubber I've ever had is never as tacky say in week 2 as when you first pull it out of the package. While I use to be disappointed by this, I've now come to expect that to be normal and don't worry about it. For me personally, I still like the grip more on tacky rubbers even if some of the tack is worn off over euro rubbers in their style of grip. So it's good enough for me. Besides, you don't need your rubber to be play fly paper it to work well. ;)
 
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EyyT... try this out.

Do a lemon juice and olive oli cleaning of topsheet. Wipe down with clean cloth. Get it all good and clean. Repeat if needed.

Rub some olive oil on topsheet. Make sure you use enough to make it shiny. Wipe some off if needed or rub more in if needed.

Press a sheet of plastic (cut a document protector if you do not have a protective sheet) onto the topsheet and let it stay that way overnight or a couple days. Remove plastic and start playing.

Like Carl has suggested, breath and wipe off topsheet if it gets dusty.

What I described is a way to rejuvinate a topsheet and restore tackiness.

Some tacky rubbers just need a water cleaning and afterwards, while rubber topsheet is still moist, you put on protective topsheet ensureing as much as possible is sticking to topsheet and leave overnight.

Night and Day difference.

PUN INTENDED.

Thank you I will try it :)
 
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