Which blade should i take?

Any chance you have or can make some footage of you playing. Just a few FHs and a few BHs so we can see how you play.

Offensive S is probably fine for you. H3 on BH is really kind of hard to use. But if I saw your BH, I would be able to see if (how) you have adapted to it. So, it could be fine for you.

If it is not so good for you, something like Vega Europe on BH might be good. Vega Pro on FH is probably good.

However, without seeing you play, it is really hard to say what will be good for you.

Extreme S is really bouncy for an all wood blade. I would agree with offensive S, energy wood v2 or azalea off.

As Carl said H3 on BH is quite hard to use at least if it's not the "soft" 37° variant.
So the first thing I would do is to try the H3 on FH and the Vega Pro on BH. If the Vega Pro is too hard/fast for your BH than switch that to something slower/softer like the Vega Europe.
Blade: Xiom Offensive S, Yasaka Sweden Extra, Stiga Offensive Classic.
If you buy on Aliexpress there are some cheaper options available like the Yinhe Earth 3 (Limba outer ply like the newer/current Offensive Classic) or Earth 1 (Koto outer ply like the old Offensive Classic).
BH rubber: Palio AK47 red (same sponge hardness as the Vega Pro), blue (as soft as the Vega Europe) or yellow (between red and blue).
FH rubber: If you play better with the H3 on your FH than I would keep it and maybe get a slightly softer 39° H3 Neo if the current one has a harder sponge.[FONT=&quot]
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But "However, without seeing you play, it is really hard to say what will be good for you."...

Look, we can't convince you of much. But based on what you have said, I am not sure Vega X is such a great idea.

One of the things that using equipment that is too fast or too hard for you causes is the person trying to develop to have messed up strokes because they are trying to cut their stroke down just to get the ball on the table rather than taking a good stroke.

We can't tell anything that would be good for you without seeing footage.

But, a reality check is that, probably what you should get is, Vega Intro on both sides and either a Stiga Allround Evolution blade or a Donic Appelgren Allplay blade.

But you are not going to do that and you are likely not going to show footage. So, most of the comments that people make on this thread will likely be good suggestions for someone even if they are likely not actually good for you.

Post footage. Then we can see what you are doing and make suggestions for you that are based on how you actually play and what you need. Without that footage, the best you can get is guesses based on people having no real idea of how you play.

A word of caution on the hurricane 37 degrees. Do not boost it if your strokes are not developed yet. It can be as fast as esb rubbers when boosted and the arc is a bit higher conpared to esn rubbers.

Silk said:

Thank you
I'll try to make a footage tomorrow. I think you right, and i should play with an allround blade, i just thought at the off- cause i started with an off+.

Click to expand...

As a result of the 40+ ball, you probably could use an Off- blade. But the rubbers you have used are kind of irregular. And so, something basic that is more traditional would be what I recommend unless I see footage that shows specifically that your use of H3 on the BH was useful for you.

I would not really recommend you change FH rubbers unless you were changing to something more middle of the road that would give you more control.

I think you will get better feeling with this equipment too since you have been playing such a short time. If I would change anything I should try new rubbers first since that probably is cheaper. If you still want China rubber I think more wise to use on forehand. The biomechanics are not as good on the backhand for this kind of rubber. Or try a bit softer slower rubbers.

If development is the priority I feel like the equipment can not be to slow as long as the rubbers have grip. Based on how short time you have played.

Dear Silk, I somehow think that at this moment changing to slower set up isn't going to be much of a help. You need someone who could help you to develop proper strokes and consistency otherwise you will make the same mistakes with your FH ,even if you take the slowest set up available. In case you don't have anyone to train with, do more recordings of yourself and try to analyze carefully your own moves

Your main concern should be your strokes basing on the video. I would still go with an all+ or off- blade.

Judging by your playstyle, I can say that your strokes are pretty iregular and pretty much you are just trying to get the ball on the table.

A slower, preferably all or all+ blade like the ones mentioned above should be better for you

As for rubbers, it seems that you like to hit and punch the ball more than you impart spin on it. My recommendation is to put a slower rubber on forehand so you can put the ball on the table more easily.

As for the backhand, you have a short, iregular stroke not fiting for a chinese rubber, imho.

Maybe try 2 of the same, slower rubbers on an all-all+ blade to get a better feeling for the ball and a more natural arm movement.

My recommendation for a decent but cheap rubber and blade combo from aliexpress is Palio AK47 blue with Yinhe/Galaxy N9S, should be about 30-40 euros total.

Anyway, thats my 2 cents, other members are definitely more experienced than I am, hope they can help you also.

I looked at 10 seconds of the vid and say already that for right now, it will not matter a whole lot what blade or rubbers you use. Your fundamentals are so far off that equipment will not make an immediate difference at all.

This will also hold true if you do not get professional competent effeective coaching for a LONG time. Just play with what you want and enjoy it.

Now if you are going to get continuous long term effective help, it would help your growth VERY MUCH if you got a medium speed wood blade and softer control oriented modern dynamic rubbers. it isn't the only path, but a proven one for reasons we discuss literally every week or month.

Just info to counter the people who are saying a slower setup won't help:

When Silk just puts his racket out, hoping to touch the ball back, sort of like funny block/half punch, the ball still flies long. If he took an actual loop stroke, the ball would hit the stratosphere. Without a slower setup he will not be able to take a fuller stroke to learn the mechanics for spinning the ball. Right now, on FH he is just putting the racket out. Or, he is trying to flat hit when he swings. With BH, when he tries to do that funny wrist shot, the ball also, frequently goes long.

I would say, slower would be quite useful because it might allow him to swing at the ball instead of just trying to put his racket in the way of the ball and hoping it goes on.

But it is true, silk needs to learn things like counter-hitting, basic strokes, really backed off fundamentals. If he has access to a coach he would benefit from it. Watching videos from places like PingSkills or Brett Clarke would be really helpful as well.

It is clear that he needs to learn how to make spin contact also. But, one thing at a time. With how many balls go long without Silk even swinging, a slower setup would be helpful. For rubbers, I think the AK47 might be fine. I also think Yasaka Mark V or Vega Intro would be fine as well. I would recommend he get the same rubbers for FH and BH.

And as for a blade, I think a Stiga Allround Evolution may be the right weapon for him. Because he likes to hit flat it won't be too slow. But it won't be too fast either. It will be a little slower than a blade like the Offensive S and a little faster than a Allround Classic.

That is what I think.

Silk, you could also practice shadow strokes.

These are just some videos that give info on certain aspects of the mechanics involved in FH and BH strokes.

In this first video I am talking about how you pivot from your elbow. Silk, the push forward thing I am showing is something certain people do when they try to do BHs. You are not doing that. You are pivoting your whole arm around your wrist instead. Mechanically it is much less accurate and much less efficient than what I am showing. So, what I am showing would be a decent place to start and would be an improvement from what you are currently trying to do. It is not really the stroke. But it is some of the mechanics of the stroke. And if one of the coaches on the forum want to take a crack at showing more of what Silk needs to do with his strokes, I am sure it would be helpful. I might be a moment analyst. But I am not a TT coach.


This second video, I break down a bunch of different aspects of the FH stroke:


This next video is me just simplifying things and letting the strokes be more natural rather than trying to show isolations of different parts of the movements:


This last one is a self hitting exercise that could help you practice the strokes when you don't have someone to practice with:


It always helps to watch footage of yourself. So I am glad you did. Filming every so often and watching the footage will help you improve.