changing H3 NEO 37/ 2.15 to H3 NEO 40/2.15...........

Originally Posted by lodro

when you boost the normal H3 will it become like a NEO ?????

If you try to use boosters, buy the normal version and boost it
I would recommend Haifu Seamoon, it is a Chinese booster and it works very well on Hurricanes rubbers.
It will expand the sponge and you will clearly see a different structure, believe me it is so enjoyable to play with it, and the sound 😍

Originally Posted by davidzhang

If you try to use boosters, buy the normal version and boost it
I would recommend Haifu Seamoon, it is a Chinese booster and it works very well on Hurricanes rubbers.
It will expand the sponge and you will clearly see a different structure, believe me it is so enjoyable to play with it, and the sound 😍

Hey David, what's your personal technique for boosting H3? Time between layers, glue between booster layers or not...

Originally Posted by davidzhang

I'm using the method that I learnt from a tennis table shop in China, I'm not sure if it is the best way of boosting but it works well for me
1) I use one layer of glue (I'm currently using DHS water based glue) , let it dry.
2) Then one layer of booster, let it dry for 24h.
3) Second layer of booster let it dry 24h/48h (depending if the dome is important or not, if it is too important I can wait until 72h because otherwise it is really difficult to glue the rubber to the blade and the edges will roll back and I don't like that )
3) Then : 2 layers of water based glue on the sponge and one layer on the blade.

For re-boosting : I repeat the same process but I only use one layer of booster instead of 2.
N.B : I only use 2 layers of boosters because the feeling is the best for me (I'm using 39° DHS Hurricane III, maybe one more layer is needed with harder sponge but I never tried)
I only use Seamoon booster as I use Hurricane 3 on FH and BH. I used Falco when I was using Tenergy.

This is a video of a Chinese guy doing it, it is funny to see that we have the same technique of boosting
He is playing table tennis in China at University level, so he knows what he is doing
https://www.bilibili.com/video/BV1Qi4y1b7Yc

Thank you very much!

You use a layer of glue before boosting to essentially protect the topsheet from separating, right?

Before you re-boost, do you first remove the old glue from the rubber or not even?
Do you re-boost after a month?

I'm not sure about that, the guy just told me that the booster will penetrate slower on the sponge so it is not too agressive on it (so maybe yes it protect the topsheet).
For re-boosting I always remove all the old glue before.
The duration depends if I play a lot or not but after 2 months the boosting effect is almost gone.

Originally Posted by davidzhang

I'm not sure about that, the guy just told me that the booster will penetrate slower on the sponge so it is not too agressive on it (so maybe yes it protect the topsheet).
For re-boosting I always remove all the old glue before.
The duration depends if I play a lot or not but after 2 months the boosting effect is almost gone.

a lot of players "seal" the rubbers with a layer of glue before boosting in order to protect the top rubber.
Others think this is wrong because there will always be remnants of glue inside the sponge and these glue particles
prevent the booster working its full potential.
DHS Hurricane 3 Ultimate Thread - OOAK Table Tennis Forum it is all written in there.

Also, there are a lot of players removing the original layer of glue from the NEOs ....................and the apply a layer of glue to start the boosting process.
What is the logic behind that ????

Originally Posted by lodro

a lot of players "seal" the rubbers with a layer of glue before boosting in order to protect the top rubber.
Others think this is wrong because there will always be remnants of glue inside the sponge and these glue particles
prevent the booster working its full potential.
DHS Hurricane 3 Ultimate Thread - OOAK Table Tennis Forum it is all written in there.

Also, there are a lot of players removing the original layer of glue from the NEOs ....................and the apply a layer of glue to start the boosting process.
What is the logic behind that ????

Well my booster is doing the job well with a layer a glue, tbh I didn't experiment as I believe what my former coach teach me about boosting, the guy who sell me equipment in Shanghai did it like that too, so I tend to believe them ^^
I'm pretty sure that the chemicals in a booster component are strong enough to go through some tiny tiny thin remnants of glue !
About buying a NEO version and removing the layer of glue, I don't really understand why they are doing it. The NEO version is factory tuned, so there is already booster inside the sponge, maybe they want more booster ?
A majority of Chinese players I know buy the normal version of H3 and boost it by themselves, it is cheaper than NEO and you can boost as you like

Originally Posted by davidzhang

Chinese rubbers such as H3 are made for people who can generate their own power (the power of your shot comes mainly from your legs, hip/shoulders rotation + mastering the relax before/fingers pressures at ball impact).
When I started TT in China, the coach made me a blade with an all-wood blade +H2/G666, it was a "slow" blade but now I can play with a proper technique and can hit the ball hard with confidence.
I remember some of my friends in EU wanted to play with H3 on their forehand, they did good at training because there is no pressure but during matches they couldn't use H3 at its full potential and they play in reality better with tensors rubbers (easy power/spin and forgiving).

Hi David, just curious, which versions of H3 do you use now? Commercial, provincial, national? Orange or blue? What thickness? I think you said non-Neo 39 degrees on FH, what about BH? And on which blade?

When you started TT in China, did most kids start with H2/G666? Do you remember the model of the all-wood blade you were using back then?

Originally Posted by zeio

Ironically, the original description for H3 said it was designed for control-oriented players and those with smaller power. 😂

Well I do think it can be used differently by a wide range of players.
For control-oriented players with not a lot of power, as a slow but direct rubber that can generate decent spin. For attacking players (developing or not), as a controlled rubber which necessitates better technique and power to generate a lot of spin and speed.
It certainly isn't meant to generate the speed for you, lol.

Originally Posted by thomas.pong

Hi David, just curious, which versions of H3 do you use now? Commercial, provincial, national? Orange or blue? What thickness? I think you said non-Neo 39 degrees on FH, what about BH? And on which blade?

When you started TT in China, did most kids start with H2/G666? Do you remember the model of the all-wood blade you were using back then?

Viscaria, FH: Hurricane 3 blue provincial 39, BH : Hurricane 3 orange provincial 37, with boosters.
It was a long time ago but I remember kids using DHS premade bats (the ones that you can buy in Chinese supermarkets ), some had Yinhe/729 cheap equipments. Very few had a "own made blade", many westerns people think all Chinese have good blades and good knowledge about equipments but the truth is most of them play with cheap blades and are still better than me 🤣

Originally Posted by davidzhang

Viscaria, FH: Hurricane 3 blue provincial 39, BH : Hurricane 3 orange provincial 37, with boosters.
It was a long time ago but I remember kids using DHS premade bats (the ones that you can buy in Chinese supermarkets ), some had Yinhe/729 cheap equipments. Very few had a "own made blade", many westerns people think all Chinese have good blades and good knowledge about equipments but the truth is most of them play with cheap blades and are still better than me 🤣

Thanks again for the info. Do still play in China or did you move?

Someone recently asked in a thread what equipment kids in China start with, that's why I asked. I think he meant the kids that are picked at a young age and often have to leave their home and family to train thoroughly at academies far away with the aim/hope of making a living out of TT and making it to their provincial team or higher. I had previously read that most of the kids where using an all-wood blade with H3 on both sides, although I'm sure that's a generalization.

Originally Posted by zeio

This thread reminds me of the dialog between 2 clubmates a decade ago, a few years before WLQ and then XX and ML started experimenting with H3 on the BH.

Clubmate A: Can H3 be used for the BH?
Clubmate B: Not that it can't be, but that it'd be a waste.

The waste here refers to the trajectory unique to H3. The same is true for the FH. Many folks say that H3 is unplayable without boosting, when in many cases they simply don't have the stroke to penetrate the sponge.

That's the reason behind my first reply. To tap into the full potential of H3 at that hardness requires the user to go through the pain of acquiring the stroke that is equal to it.

Commercial H3, non-Neo, unknown hardness that sat in the drawer for 3 years, unboosted.

Zeio is that you playing?

Personally, when I first started playing with H3 (FH unboosted Neo commercial), I was shocked that I could hear a nice wood and click sound (even at mid speed) that I didn't always hear when playing with various Euro/Japanese rubbers (never more than 48 degrees). I thought it'd be extremely hard or impossible to penetrate the sponge being approximately 49 to 53 degrees, and that I'd mostly be playing with the topsheet, I was wrong. I do have to make full use of my wrist though which feels great.

yes Zeio , which one is the player that is using the 3 year old rubber, the one that is doing the hammering or the one who is trying to defend ?
Also, how much training was had with the old rubber before the video was taken ?

Originally Posted by thomas.pong

Thanks again for the info. Do still play in China or did you move?

Someone recently asked in a thread what equipment kids in China start with, that's why I asked. I think he meant the kids that are picked at a young age and often have to leave their home and family to train thoroughly at academies far away with the aim/hope of making a living out of TT and making it to their provincial team or higher. I had previously read that most of the kids where using an all-wood blade with H3 on both sides, although I'm sure that's a generalization.

I live in France, a part of my family still live in China, that's why I have some experience playing with Chinese (I trained in a local club and at university when I did my exchange).
All kids start with cheap equipment unless the parents are rich and willing to spend money for them. If the kid has potential/does a lot of competitions and wants better equipment, the coach will give him advice. Back in early 2000s, it was an offensive wood blade (I remember my coach and the local champion were using Stiga) with H2 for FH and softer Chinese rubber for BH.
Last time I was in China I played with students at university level, most of them had a carbon blade with H3 forehand

changing H3 NEO 37/ 2.15 to H3 NEO 40/2.15.......... both are commercial rubbers. go on the forehand.
The blade is the Innerforce ALC Butterfly

What changes can be expected. ?????

Well , this was the opening question of this thread and it was very interesting..........still is.
Last night at the club I asked the top-man for a favor. I asked him to play with my blade and to tell me
which side he would prefer as a BH.
He did not know which of the two rubbers was the NEO 37 or the H3 40

After giving it a good whack and a couple of twiddles his verdict : "There is not much difference" !!!!

Exactly confirmed what had confused me for weeks now. Whichever side I chose as BH, it would simply take me a few strokes to adjust
my angles and then it was business as usual.

I will today remove the 37 NEO and replace it with another Standard H3 40

Any takers for a little used second hand NEO 37 ???? Remember , they last over 3 years 😁


Lastly, thanks so much for all the invaluable contributions to this thread. I am every so happy to be able to learn from you guys 👍

Originally Posted by lodro

changing H3 NEO 37/ 2.15 to H3 NEO 40/2.15.......... both are commercial rubbers. go on the forehand.
The blade is the Innerforce ALC Butterfly

What changes can be expected. ?????

Well , this was the opening question of this thread and it was very interesting..........still is.
Last night at the club I asked the top-man for a favor. I asked him to play with my blade and to tell me
which side he would prefer as a BH.
He did not know which of the two rubbers was the NEO 37 or the H3 40

After giving it a good whack and a couple of twiddles his verdict : "There is not much difference" !!!!

Exactly confirmed what had confused me for weeks now. Whichever side I chose as BH, it would simply take me a few strokes to adjust
my angles and then it was business as usual.

I will today remove the 37 NEO and replace it with another Standard H3 40

Any takers for a little used second hand NEO 37 ???? Remember , they last over 3 years 😁


Lastly, thanks so much for all the invaluable contributions to this thread. I am every so happy to be able to learn from you guys 👍

It's a bit weird if he doesn't feel a difference between H3 37 neo and H3 40, I use 39 and 37 and I can tell with 37 the ball stays longer in my rubber. Of course it is not night and day but still, there is a difference in the feeling.
Back to your original question, I didn't understand if your goal was to find better rubbers for you or you just wanted to know the difference between hurricanes rubbers hardness ?
Because if you play table tennis for fun but still want to improve and win more matches, I really advice you to use "easier" rubbers 👍