glue your bat like this; your fast topspin serve will greatly improve

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Approx 7mm from the handle , l discovered this by accident when l made my bat 10 gms lighter, great if your bat is too heavy with harder rubbers mine was 196 gms the bat is still the same size ! the beautiful space fits your 2nd finger in the pendulum grip and the 2nd finger grips and flips up against the chamfer edge of the handle ,it also great improves under and side serves . pros like ma long use the 2nd finger to pull the on the handle side middle when serving ,but not on topspin serves , and the this position is not as good. l also made the bat smaller another 6 gms lost. this helps in fast transitions fore to backhand close in ..if you like the weight of yours you can cut a little circle out where the the name of the rubber is on the backhand only ...even better since you the finger uses the side of the rubber also . l doubt if anyone would like to deface the rubbers name !! esp on tenergy.. l would if l liked my weight .. cos the serve is so much more wonderful !!
 
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I am just wondering what would be wrong with a total weight of 196gms. I like that weight. I think my main setup's total weight is 205gms. :) More power.

But this would make the racket a little less head heavy if you have heavy rubbers.

l agree l get more more power looping with the 196 gm,,if one two or more metres away . l don't play away from the table am close in like female pro players hit loops early topspin ball and my focus is on a fast transition fore to backhands ,with a wide stance off the bounce . my expierence in the last nine months because of major lockdowns is with robot only so this script has yet to tested against young v good players. l am to old to play back ,thou we start playing again Saturday in the UK!! l found that a lighter around 180 gms bat is far better , l tested this when l bought 2 used 290s [straight blades are best for a quick transition]flared take longer to grip change , one carbonado had lots of bad edge splintering when l filed this down my 290 was 152x143 mm [compact ] size ,comparing the two with the same rubber l recorded less mistakes with the small blade l try to always hit the top of the blade not the middle with lots of wrist ..then l made the small blade heavier only 3 gms it still played faster smoother ,, is this to do with air resistance ? l have a big grip change ?. when l played competitive tennis small headed racquets were best for a fast swing air resistance counted , but not light racquets , a tennis ball is heavy one needs to hit through the impact ..

 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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....[straight blades are best for a quick transition]flared take longer to grip change....

Probably this is the case for many. But I think this depends on how you hold the racket and who has the racket in his/her hand. For me, the way I hold, I am not going to say flared is better for grip change. I will just say, it makes absolutely no difference because the grip change does not happen from the handle but from the index finger and thumb and from the angle of my wrist.

The three fingers on the "handle" are so lose that there is no resistance to adjusting my wrist and how that forces the grip to HAVE to change. :)

But, your post is a good one. This particular detail just caught my analytical interest.

:)

 
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I am just wondering what would be wrong with a total weight of 196gms. I like that weight. I think my main setup's total weight is 205gms. :) More power.

But this would make the racket a little less head heavy if you have heavy rubbers.

Carl be up late at night copying Der_Echte's bat weight specs as he scans Krooklyn for the Goonie Krooks from his perch on the 4th floor of Observation Post Safe Haus #13.

 
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showing a better pic of the actual grip, the 2nd finger wedged in the 7mm gap. the power of the finger in its optimum position [and not on the handle where its force is minimal ] the other way to make the gap is to cut the chamfer by 7mm on the backhand side , makes that side shorter , or hardly one at all giving you the edge fulcrum simply ,,the chamfers are only important for the thumb on the forehand not on the backhand don't need one there !
 
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This user has no status.
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P1130368.jpeg

showing a better pic of the actual grip, the 2nd finger wedged in the 7mm gap. the power of the finger in its optimum position [and not on the handle where its force is minimal ] the other way to make the gap is to cut the chamfer by 7mm on the backhand side , makes that side shorter , or hardly one at all giving you the edge fulcrum simply ,,the chamfers are only important for the thumb on the forehand not on the backhand don't need one there !
new things l have found with this grip, you know the massive underspin serve that runs back to the net when not returned , because the normal thumb and 1st finger are pincering the rubber . every one has to snap fast with the end of handle starting and finishing above the wrist . my serve starts and ends with the handle BELOW the wrist , this allows you to hit the ball below net height at the white line height getting a low over the net massive underspin ... this is only possible because the 2nd finger creates a 3 point stability not just two [on squiggly rubber that's gets softer the harder you grip] and the plus is 2nd finger has more control its pushing onto 2 angles of v firm wood . more control on under side and top pendulum serves . lf DAN can get pro to try this it may take off!! issue of course is that conventions dont change and the hang-up will be glueing the rubber up! penholders have done it this way for ever !!

 
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