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  1. aliflaila420 is offline
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    #1

    Best glue for Rakza 7?

    Hi everyone! I am completely new on the TTD forum. I need some advice on what glue to use.

    I recently started gluing my own bat. However, my experience so far has been far from ideal. I am using Nittaku Finezip for my Rakza 7 rubbers, which according to many reviews I read, is one of the best glues available. However, I noticed that after gluing, the edges of the rubber does not remain stuck to the blade surface well. I am not sure if I am doing something wrong. I tried to follow the procedures on various youtube tutorials. I applied one thin layer on blade and two thin layers on rubber. One thing to note is that the blade is sealed.

    Can you please help me figure out what I am doing wrong? Do I need to add more glue, or should I try a different glue brand? How about rev3 or free chack ii or chack pro?

    Thanks in advance!

  2. Lazer is offline
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    #2
    It doesn’t matter what type of rubber it’s the same procedure for all with sponges.

    I’m not saying I’m doing it right but I use only one layer on blade and one layer on rubber. I never let it dry, I put the rubber on pretty quick after application. I always use a roller and I’m using Stiga glue but I don’t think the brand matters Dudley squat...

    Cheers
    L-zr

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    #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Lazer
    It doesn’t matter what type of rubber it’s the same procedure for all with sponges.

    I’m not saying I’m doing it right but I use only one layer on blade and one layer on rubber. I never let it dry, I put the rubber on pretty quick after application. I always use a roller and I’m using Stiga glue but I don’t think the brand matters Dudley squat...

    Cheers
    L-zr


    interesting method of gluing and completely opposite of what the manufacturer recommends - but i will try it out as well 😁


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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Lazer
    It doesn’t matter what type of rubber it’s the same procedure for all with sponges.

    I’m not saying I’m doing it right but I use only one layer on blade and one layer on rubber. I never let it dry, I put the rubber on pretty quick after application. I always use a roller and I’m using Stiga glue but I don’t think the brand matters Dudley squat...

    Cheers
    L-zr
    I do the same but I use elmer's rubber cement. I let it dry because the rubber expands a bit when the glue is wet. This is noticeable when you see the rubber "dome" a bit. This isn't a problem if you cut about 0.5mm from the edge of the blade but if you cut next to the wood like I do then the rubber will be too small by a bit should I need to re-attach the rubber.

    After the first time it doesn't make any difference since the rubber has been cut.

  5. aliflaila420 is offline
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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by brokenball
    I do the same but I use elmer's rubber cement. I let it dry because the rubber expands a bit when the glue is wet. This is noticeable when you see the rubber "dome" a bit. This isn't a problem if you cut about 0.5mm from the edge of the blade but if you cut next to the wood like I do then the rubber will be too small by a bit should I need to re-attach the rubber.

    After the first time it doesn't make any difference since the rubber has been cut.


    I have read somewhere that rubber cement is bad for tensor rubbers, but obviously I am very new to this and don't know if it is true or not. As you are also using the same rubber as I, how is your experience with elmer's rubber cement? Is the bond strong on sealed blade? Also, is it easy to remove from the blade? It's okay if it doesn't come off easily from rubber, as I don't reuse rubbers.


  6. Kolev is offline
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    #6
    I always wait till the glue is dry and never failed. Rarely some sponges have dead spots on and I have to repeat with the glue. All my blades are sealed but not to the point of becoming slippery. If you feel that your blade feels glass like and does not hold the rubber, an ultra gentle rub with grit 800 will do

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    pilami


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    #7
    I have had Finezip fail on me before, curdling and not drying correctly because there was not enough ammonia or rubber solids in the glue. Try Copydex - more ammonia and thick, and has not failed on me yet (cross fingers).

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    #8
    Personally I don’t seal my blades, now I tend to use REvolution 3, when applied properly it can be peeled off from the sponge, when removing a rubber the glue tends to stick to the rubber not the blade.
    I normally use at least 2 coats on the blade and 2 - 3 coats on the sponge.
    One blade I had was ‘factory’ sealed and felt real slippery, 1st time gluing rubbers and they just didn’t bond, a light sand with a fine sandpaper sorted out the problem. This blade has had a few different rubbers on it and they bonded well, but the sealer coat is still there and has protected the blade, no splinters!! Maybe the type / thickness of sealer used could be adjusted?
    Maybe I should try sealing a couple of blades, but I sort of have concerns that the way the blade feels and plays will change.
    if I do get a couple of deep splinters or some damage to the edge of the blade from hitting the table, I just use some ‘plastic wood’ or filler and repair.

  9. pilami is offline
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    #9
    One layer on the blade, one layer on the rubber. I let it dry until white glue has become transparent, stick it without stretching it (this is why I don't use a roller) and put under a heavy book for one hour.

    The Following 2 Users Like pilami's Post:

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  10. Funk Fu Master is offline
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    #10
    IMHO, The very best glue is one that contains the term Volatile Organic Compounds... Highly effective ..works with any blade and any rubber .. Use the same amount as that pansy water-based ( I mean, can water ever be sticky ....come-on) glue, spread evenly, on both surfaces .. Oh, and make sure you inhale (Long & Deep) and exhale ... The only minor down-side, is a couple thousand dead brain-cells .. that's all .. your body will generate new ones, anyway.. ..

  11. langel is offline
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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Funk Fu Master
    IMHO, The very best glue is one that contains the term Volatile Organic Compounds... Highly effective ..works with any blade and any rubber .. Use the same amount as that pansy water-based ( I mean, can water ever be sticky ....come-on) glue, spread evenly, on both surfaces .. Oh, and make sure you inhale (Long & Deep) and exhale ... The only minor down-side, is a couple thousand dead brain-cells .. that's all .. your body will generate new ones, anyway.. ..

    Absolutely wrong!

    👎


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    #12
    Make sure the glue is already transparent on the blade and sponge before gluing them.
    ITTF Level 1 Coaching Course Conductor at your service!

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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by langel

    Absolutely wrong!

    👎

    really .... ? One would've never guessed if you had not mentioned it ..


  14. yoass is offline
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    #14
    With glue especially, the "less is more" adagium holds true. Thin layers make strong bonds. I've no experience with FineZip, but have used Andro, Butterfly, Donic, and Gewo waterbased glues successfully that way - even with notoriously hard to glue rubbers, such as 729FX.

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    #15

    I've been very happy with Revolution No.3 and usually put two (thin) layers of glue on the sponge and one layer on the blade. The only exception was on a Stiga Rosewood NCT which needed two layers on the blade as well because of the NCT coating.

    Leave to dry completely and then leave under a heavy book for about two hours.

    Note: When I leave the glue to dry that means actually leaving it to dry. I see some folks accelerate the drying using a hair-dryer. I don't know if this makes any difference, but it seems intuitive to me that expanding the sponge by heating it means it then needs to contract when it cools which means that, if you stick it on the blade before it's had a chance to properly cool down and return to its normal size, it will remain in a state of tension on the blade. As I said, not sure if this really makes any difference, but it might explain why your rubbers want to pull away at the edges of the blade?


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    #16
    Revolution no. 3 is really good. One of my fav. glues.
    ITTF Level 1 Coaching Course Conductor at your service!

  17. aliflaila420 is offline
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    #17
    Thanks everyone for your feedback! It seems like the rev3 is favored by most of you and clearly a good choice. I will go with it . Thanks again!

  18. Николай Петров is online now
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    #18
    Rev 3 is a good glue but In your case I think you put too much sealant on the blade and that is why the glue is running from the edges maybe sand just a little bit from the top layer with smth like grid 400-500 I know some glues are better than the other but still I don't think there is any glue on the market that wont glue your rubber to the blade properly 100% sure is the sealant problem.

  19. Gozo is offline
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by aliflaila420
    Hi everyone! I am completely new on the TTD forum. I need some advice on what glue to use.

    I recently started gluing my own bat. However, my experience so far has been far from ideal. I am using Nittaku Finezip for my Rakza 7 rubbers, which according to many reviews I read, is one of the best glues available. However, I noticed that after gluing, the edges of the rubber does not remain stuck to the blade surface well. I am not sure if I am doing something wrong. I tried to follow the procedures on various youtube tutorials. I applied one thin layer on blade and two thin layers on rubber. One thing to note is that the blade is sealed.

    Can you please help me figure out what I am doing wrong? Do I need to add more glue, or should I try a different glue brand? How about rev3 or free chack ii or chack pro?

    Thanks in advance!

    I have been using Butterfly Free Chack 2 for some time now and I am very happy with it. Easy to apply and most important, easy to remove rubber with it leaving residue that is easily removed. So far all the rubber sheets that are glued do not come off. Very happy with its performance thus far.


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