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  1. mrredpoll is offline
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    #1

    What glue do you use?

    Hello,

    I'm going to glue my first TT rubbers on my own and actually got confused what glue should I use? I will be "mounting" Dignics 09c and Tenergy 05, if that makes difference (does it?). Should I go for Butterfly's Free Chack, or the Xiom Voc Free will do the job, too? What do you use? Whats your experience?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated,

    Best Regards

    EDIT: I did a mistake with the section, srry
    Last edited by mrredpoll; 08-08-2021 at 07:54 PM.

  2. ejprinz is offline
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    #2
    Before I glue the rubbers to the blade I varnish the blade with MinWax polyurethane (satin) varnish (Minwax 23005 Fast Drying Polyurethane, 1/2 Pint, Semi-Gloss). I do this both on the playing side and the handle so I can wash the blade with disinfectant if I have to.

    You want to use a VOC-free water-based glue. I've used the Donic Glue Vario Clean and the Revolution #3 Glue and they both work fine. You need to apply the glue with a sponge (comes with the Donic glue) to the blade and the rubber and then let it dry (I use a hairdryer to accelerate the drying) before you join the two. Some rubbers come with glue already applied (e.g. Yinhe Moon) so in this case I only apply the glue to the blade which saves a step. Several famous players have YouTube videos on how to glue rubbers, e.g. Timo Boll & Dima Ovtcherov. I am cutting the rubber to size (after glueing) with leather scissors, works better for me than the Exacto knife approach.
    Last edited by ejprinz; 08-08-2021 at 08:15 PM.
    DHS Fang Bo B2, Yinhe Moon Medium (FH), DHS GoldArc 5, 42.5deg (BH)

  3. IB66 is offline
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    #3
    Hi,

    I use Revolution 3 as well, good glue, peels off easily as well when changing old rubbers for new.
    personally, I don’t seal my blades, sealing may alter the blades characteristics slightly, but because I don’t do it, I don’t know for sure!!! Depends on what you use I suppose, but a hard varnish is definitely going to have some sort of impact.

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  4. WingTT is offline
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    #4
    You don't need table tennis specific water based latex glues. In my experience, Copydex works as well or even better than some big name TT glues like Nittaku Finezip, if it is available to you.

    A thin poly finish like Minwax Wipe-on Poly does not affect the feel of the blade and will be crucial for blades with thin limba top plies. Other tops like Hinoki will not need lacquering.

    I do not recommend using polyurethane finishes for handles unless you don't mind your handle feeling like plastic. A finish like Watco Danish Oil will retain the texture of the wood and keep sweat from soaking into the handle when appplied according to it's instructions. The handle will smell of the finish for a good couple of days however.
    Last edited by WingTT; 08-08-2021 at 11:04 PM. Reason: more information and formatting

  5. trumpet_guy is offline
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    #5
    I use Nittaku Fine Zip glue. Good holding power, but easy to remove.

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    #6
    Quote Originally Posted by mrredpoll
    Hello,

    I'm going to glue my first TT rubbers on my own and actually got confused what glue should I use? I will be "mounting" Dignics 09c and Tenergy 05, if that makes difference (does it?). Should I go for Butterfly's Free Chack, or the Xiom Voc Free will do the job, too? What do you use? Whats your experience?

    Any thoughts would be appreciated,

    Best Regards

    EDIT: I did a mistake with the section, srry
    I use Donic Vario Clean Glue, I am very happy.

  7. Gozo is offline
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    #7

    My my own experience; I have used before Donic brand water based glue and also let 3rd party ( read: TT retailer ) who uses the Lidu brand glue. All the brand used prior have excellent adhesion and that is not a problem The main problem is removing the rubber and regluing fresh sheets. The Donic brand leaves a layer of residue that is hard to remove and it is a hassle. With regards to Lidu brand, it is so strong adhesion that I tore my hurricane rubber when I remove it. 🤬

    So, after these bad experience with glue, I have found my Holy Grail in Butterfly Free Chack 2. This product gives good adhesion and it is easy to remove and leaves almost no residue. If it does, the residue is easily removed. A gentle rub and the residue falls of much like the school eraser you used to erase pencil writing in your school exercise book.

    I am not using any other glue other than Butterfly Free Chack 2 going forth.


  8. lodro is offline
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    #8

    I would also like to use the butterfly glue but unlike Revolution 3 , which costs an arm and a leg, the Butterfly one costs both arms and both legs
    I would also like to use the butterfly glue but unlike Revolution 3 , which costs an arm and a leg, the Butterfly one costs both arms and both legs 😁

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  9. P1ngP0ng3r is offline
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    #9
    Revolution 3 normal viscosity for sure. I tried a couple of glues, but this one stands out. (together with Nittaku Finezip, but that's very expensive)
    I don't varnish/lacquer my blades as this changes the behavior of the blade (as mentioned earlier in this thread).
    2 Layers on the rubber, 1 on the blade. Rubber sticks to the blade very well (regardless of how porous the sponge is) and can be removed without splintering your blade (depends on the blade quality).

  10. lodro is offline
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by P1ngP0ng3r
    Revolution 3 normal viscosity for sure. I tried a couple of glues, but this one stands out. (together with Nittaku Finezip, but that's very expensive)
    I don't varnish/lacquer my blades as this changes the behavior of the blade (as mentioned earlier in this thread).
    2 Layers on the rubber, 1 on the blade. Rubber sticks to the blade very well (regardless of how porous the sponge is) and can be removed without splintering your blade (depends on the blade quality).


    Well, there is varnishing and then there is varnishing.
    If one uses a spray can and applies 2 or 3 fat coats of the stuff, lets say acrylic lacquer, then yep, the blades characteristic might change.
    If one applies the same stuff, or water based urethane , with a lint free rag very thinly there is no measurable change to the blades characteristic.
    I bought a liter of Revolution3, the thick stuff and thin it down using a solution of ammonia..
    Works a treat.


  11. jonyer80 is offline
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    #11
    Copydex at 6€ in Amazon.

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    #12
    l use VOC glue ! Normal glue from contra.de costs 10 times less that all the small bottles of revolution fine zip etc a 700gm large tin with a brush in the lid costs 19 euros l only play leagues it smells for a while in that time it plays like a v fast demon ,wait before playing torn's it sticks better , with no wait time than any water based l tried and does not harm delicate limba plies s like water does . also its fine to glue boosted rubber one layer on rubber and on blade . water based glue damaged my blade l won't use it again does no one use VOC is it banned ? that must be why l tried copydex its cheap too but gave me no feel this is my best choice water based is so expensive in comparison

  13. P1ngP0ng3r is offline
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by zbys
    l use VOC glue ! Normal glue from contra.de costs 10 times less that all the small bottles of revolution fine zip etc a 700gm large tin with a brush in the lid costs 19 euros l only play leagues it smells for a while in that time it plays like a v fast demon ,wait before playing torn's it sticks better , with no wait time than any water based l tried and does not harm delicate limba plies s like water does . also its fine to glue boosted rubber one layer on rubber and on blade . water based glue damaged my blade l won't use it again does no one use VOC is it banned ? that must be why l tried copydex its cheap too but gave me no feel this is my best choice water based is so expensive in comparison

    VOC glue is banned indeed by ITTF for tournaments and competition.

    I tried couple times using VOC glue on modern (current generation) rubbers, but that feels so weird. It feels like there is no "partnership" (don't have another English word atm) between glue and rubber. It feels just very dynamic and nervous even.


  14. mrredpoll is offline
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    #14
    Ok, thanks for your answers guys!
    Btw, do you have an opinion about TSP BIO FIX? I read good reviews, someone using it?

  15. igorponger is offline
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    #15

    Bakery powder encoded as E403, -ammonium alginate, -- was manually mixed with factory latex substance in volumic proportions 1:100 so as to improve the running viscosity of the Table Tennis white latex glue.

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  16. Zwill is offline
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    #16
    Quote Originally Posted by mrredpoll
    Ok, thanks for your answers guys!
    Btw, do you have an opinion about TSP BIO FIX? I read good reviews, someone using it?

    From the look of the bottle it totally looks the same as Butterfly Freechack 1 or Andro Turbo Fix, or Donic Vario Clean... It's most likely also made in Germany like the others I mentioned. They smell the same, maybe they have viscosity difference but they are basically the same.
    If you just intend to glue your rubber once and only remove it after they are worn they are good glues. If you change your rubbers around I wouldn't use any of them.

    Revolution or DHS no15 is better if you swap around. I actually like DHS no15 the best since it has the most elasticity and doesn't damage either my racket or the sponge when removing. (and doesn't smell nasty like revolution)

    Long time ago I used Stiga Attach Power which I think is the same as Nittaku Finezip, but it spoiled on me. I don't remember having any other issues with it though.


  17. Albert11 is offline
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    #17
    I also use Nittaku Fine Zip glue.

  18. Master_of_loops is offline
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    #18
    When blade is new I recommend to use Joola Protective Table Tennis Blade Sealant & Varnish. It is great stuff. Best glue for me is Butterfly Free Chack Pro.

  19. lodro is offline
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    #19
    Quote Originally Posted by igorponger

    Bakery powder encoded as E403, -ammonium alginate, -- was manually mixed with factory latex substance in volumic proportions 1:100 so as to improve the running viscosity of the Table Tennis white latex glue.

    Bakery powder encoded as E403

    E403 IS NOT Baking powder. maybe it is a language problem but your info is wrong and misleading.
    Are you trying to tell us that we can thicken the runny glue using baking powder ???


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