My paddle & help

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I haven’t played table tennis for many years, so I stored my paddles away. However, all paddles are okay but my Timo Boll ALC. I haven’t used it yet. Is it repairable? Thank you.
 
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says regularly shitposting
says regularly shitposting
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I mean either butterfly or a blade builder is pretty much the best advice, dont try to fix it yourself.

Can you share what glue you use and when was the last time you glued ?

And hm, first time seeing how ALC looks like exactly, kind of surprised its not really that tightly woven. Wonder how the tightness would affect playing characteristics.
 
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says Table tennis clown
says Table tennis clown
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The ALC looks kinda creepy.


Indeed, actually it looks simply like carbon only, no Arylate. Unless Butterfly dies there Arylate in black. 😁 I know it is available in blue , green , red etc.

Is there a possibility that we are looking at a fake ?
If the blade has been bought from an authorized Butterfly merchant, this would have been the first place to go to.
Even after a few years no Butterfly product should de-laminate like this unless it has been drastically abused.
The fact that the rubber is still firmly glued on to the outer layer of wood is another indication that something
has gone drastically wrong.

Can it be fixed ? - I know I could fix it but it would end up being a playable blade but never a TB Alc blade

 
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Is it a fake? Because actually on my fake ZLC blade, a part of the edge chipped off, and I noticed that it also has those little rectangles on the black carbon.Â
 
says Table tennis clown
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says Spin and more spin.
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I haven’t played table tennis for many years, so I stored my paddles away. However, all paddles are okay but my Timo Boll ALC. I haven’t used it yet. Is it repairable? Thank you.

Would it be possible for you to show photos of the base of the handle (the silver tag) and the front and back of the handle?

 
says regularly shitposting
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That picture looks like the colors were made extra vibrant

You can see that the wove in the OPs pictures also has blue, just darker, might be because of camera or lighting, but its clearly not all black.

https://i.imgur.com/F1UycWx.png

Also here's some random image from a butterfly site of ALC, they look pretty similar at the bottom darker side

https://cdn.statically.io/img/butterflyonline.com/wp-content/uploads/2021/06/Arylate-Carbon-Materials.jpg?quality=90&f=auto

 
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The blade is genuine, that's how Butterfly's ALC looks like, the woven pattern is unique and no one else uses it.

The "softness" that is associated with these blades has an explanation, basically they use the minimum amount of resin possible. That is why you can see spaces between the individual threads. The downside to this is that it makes the blade less durable, delamination of the top ply is not uncommon and I've fixed a few. It was probably stored in an humid environment, or at least subjected to temperature changes. The shrinking of the rubbers might have helped that process, I'm betting that if you remove them, they will be a lot smaller.
 
says The sticky bit is stuck.
says The sticky bit is stuck.
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With that delaminated Koto outer, removing the rubber would be very dangerous?

This really should be taken care of by Tamasu Inc. (BTY), but if it isn't, wouldn't the next best thing to re-apply resin (PU?) and apply pressure with the rubber still intact - and remove the rubber only after the top layer is attached firmly again?

 
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With that delaminated Koto outer, removing the rubber would be very dangerous?

This really should be taken care of by Tamasu Inc. (BTY), but if it isn't, wouldn't the next best thing to re-apply resin (PU?) and apply pressure with the rubber still intact - and remove the rubber only after the top layer is attached firmly again?

TBH in the case that Butterfly does not support this damage I would let this to be fixed by local professional. If the top is damaged the professional will probably have spare wood to substitute top layer. Either way after the fix blade will play differently.

 
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With that delaminated Koto outer, removing the rubber would be very dangerous?

This really should be taken care of by Tamasu Inc. (BTY), but if it isn't, wouldn't the next best thing to re-apply resin (PU?) and apply pressure with the rubber still intact - and remove the rubber only after the top layer is attached firmly again?

If I were to fix it I would first check if the top ply was secure in the middle, but I would probably remove it completely and apply a new one.

 
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