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  1. jamiebtt is offline
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    #1

    Glueing

    Hi guys, just wondering what difference does to make when putting 1 layer of glue on the rubber or 2 or 3 layers of glue.
    What is the difference

  2. NDH is offline
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    #2
    Quote Originally Posted by jamiebtt
    Hi guys, just wondering what difference does to make when putting 1 layer of glue on the rubber or 2 or 3 layers of glue.
    What is the difference

    It has relatively minimal effect for most people, but in the age of water based glue, I think the “norm” is 2 layers on the rubber and one on the blade (although I could be wrong).

    There’s a good video of Ovtcharov who describes his glueing technique.

    He said he uses 2 layers if it’s a small venue, and 3 layers if it’s a big venue.

    For the UK venues, I’d go with the standard 1 layer on the blade and 2 on the rubbers.

    That’s also what Tees Sport do when they make your bat up.


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    #3
    There’s no hard and fast rule as such, some advise more layers some less. Also thickness of glue and thickness of the layers, type of glue can play a part in how the set up then plays. Although this may not even be noticeable by the majority of us.
    I’ve used up to 3 layers on blade and rubber, and combinations of 1/2/3 etc, did I notice a difference? Nah!!!!!
    I like Revolution No3 glue, mainly because it’s so easy to peel off the rubber when you change for a new sheet. Usually 2 on blade and 2 on rubber these days!!

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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by NDH

    It has relatively minimal effect for most people, but in the age of water based glue, I think the “norm” is 2 layers on the rubber and one on the blade (although I could be wrong).

    There’s a good video of Ovtcharov who describes his glueing technique.

    He said he uses 2 layers if it’s a small venue, and 3 layers if it’s a big venue.

    For the UK venues, I’d go with the standard 1 layer on the blade and 2 on the rubbers.

    That’s also what Tees Sport do when they make your bat up.

    Oh wow didn't know Teesport do that, thanks NDH because I normally do 1 layer on each the rubber and the blade I will probs start doing 2 layers on the rubbers now


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    #5
    Quote Originally Posted by IB66
    There’s no hard and fast rule as such, some advise more layers some less. Also thickness of glue and thickness of the layers, type of glue can play a part in how the set up then plays. Although this may not even be noticeable by the majority of us.
    I’ve used up to 3 layers on blade and rubber, and combinations of 1/2/3 etc, did I notice a difference? Nah!!!!!
    I like Revolution No3 glue, mainly because it’s so easy to peel off the rubber when you change for a new sheet. Usually 2 on blade and 2 on rubber these days!!

    Ok thanks


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    #6
    As someone who is boosting you need more than one layer to be sure that the rubber sticks to the blade. In my early stages i used to glue the same as you and with 2 layers of Falco Tempo Long Booster the rubber just peeled itself off the blade several times.

    Another advantage is the bigger layer of glue you have on the rubber the moment you rip it off the blade. The more glue there is, the easier it gets to peel off the glue from the sponge.

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    #7
    Then again, no need to peel it off at all if it’s a thin layer. And the thinner layer creates the stronger bond, or so the glue people told me.
    Last edited by yoass; 12-23-2021 at 07:44 PM.

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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by yoass
    Then again, no need to peel it off at all if it’s a thin layer. And the thin layer creates the stronger bond, or so the glue people told me.

    True but i would say it depends. Sometimes i dont have an even layer of glue on the rubber remaining. And then you are forced to peel it off. More so if you are boosting.

    But yeah if you dont boost and have an even small layer of glue on it, it can stay where it is^^


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    #9
    Well if someone doesn't care about weight can leave it on, but if even a layer of glue can be up to 1g per side. That's why it's better to chose a glue that can peel of a sponge nicely without damaging and sticks well with only 1 layer. Chinese sponges are really good at peelig nicely. I had chinese rubbers peel so well that the glue stayed on the blade and not on the sponge.

    So far for me DHS no 15 was the best, and Revolution is pretty decent but needs several layers which adds to glueing time and weight too. Actually chinese sponges can take the most harsh tabletennis glues really well, but DHS no 15 is also good with softer more porous sponges like MX-P, Tenergy FX.

    For the price it's really impossible to beat DHS no 15.

  10. NDH is offline
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    #10
    Quote Originally Posted by Zwill
    Well if someone doesn't care about weight can leave it on, but if even a layer of glue can be up to 1g per side. That's why it's better to chose a glue that can peel of a sponge nicely without damaging and sticks well with only 1 layer. Chinese sponges are really good at peelig nicely. I had chinese rubbers peel so well that the glue stayed on the blade and not on the sponge.

    So far for me DHS no 15 was the best, and Revolution is pretty decent but needs several layers which adds to glueing time and weight too. Actually chinese sponges can take the most harsh tabletennis glues really well, but DHS no 15 is also good with softer more porous sponges like MX-P, Tenergy FX.

    For the price it's really impossible to beat DHS no 15.

    This reminds me how grateful I am that the speed glue era is dead!

    Honestly, the hassle of glueing up for each match, peeling off the glue each time (even if it was satisfying at times), and getting high on the fumes……

    I’m so happy those days are over for European rubbers.

    Buy Tenergy/Dignics/Euro Rubber….. Glue it on….. replace after X number of months.

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    #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Zwill
    Well if someone doesn't care about weight can leave it on, but if even a layer of glue can be up to 1g per side. That's why it's better to chose a glue that can peel of a sponge nicely without damaging and sticks well with only 1 layer. Chinese sponges are really good at peelig nicely. I had chinese rubbers peel so well that the glue stayed on the blade and not on the sponge.

    So far for me DHS no 15 was the best, and Revolution is pretty decent but needs several layers which adds to glueing time and weight too. Actually chinese sponges can take the most harsh tabletennis glues really well, but DHS no 15 is also good with softer more porous sponges like MX-P, Tenergy FX.

    For the price it's really impossible to beat DHS no 15.
    My experience with the no15 glue is a bit different.

    If I put 2 layers on my H3 and 1 on the blade, when I peel it off it almost always left holes of dry glue on the sponge. The glue layer just breaks easily. So I had to put 4-5 layers to be sure.

  12. Zwill is offline
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    #12
    Quote Originally Posted by NDH

    This reminds me how grateful I am that the speed glue era is dead!

    Honestly, the hassle of glueing up for each match, peeling off the glue each time (even if it was satisfying at times), and getting high on the fumes……

    I’m so happy those days are over for European rubbers.

    Buy Tenergy/Dignics/Euro Rubber….. Glue it on….. replace after X number of months.

    This has more to do with the actual rubber than the glue. You don't need to remove the rubber or glue each time if you only glue once per sheet(until they become worn). But the option exists in case it's required for a blade change or whatever reason.
    With some other glues like german made Bty free chack, Ando turbo fix etc etc removing the glue from the sponge is a hassle so much so that it can ruin the sponge on said Jap/Eur rubbers. Can't see the benefit to that.

    But moving away from speedglue times has many advantages. Surely more consitency due to less bad glue job. No more changnig weight of the rubber/racket either.
    But speed glue was magical in its own way too.

    Last edited by Zwill; 12-23-2021 at 11:46 PM.

  13. Attitude is offline
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    #13
    Quote Originally Posted by SFF_lib
    My experience with the no15 glue is a bit different.

    If I put 2 layers on my H3 and 1 on the blade, when I peel it off it almost always left holes of dry glue on the sponge. The glue layer just breaks easily. So I had to put 4-5 layers to be sure.

    Maybe you are brushing the glue too thin? I had your experience solely if put one layer on the rubber and one on the blade. That was usually not enough. And either my boosted rubber fell off or i had a tough time getting rid of the remaining glue on the sponge.

    Either way if you boost and put so many layers on your rubber be aware that the thickness of rubber+booster+glue might be too huge. In official tournaments you might "lose" your main racket.


  14. NDH is offline
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    #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Zwill

    This has more to do with the actual rubber than the glue. You don't need to remove the rubber or glue each time if you only glue once per sheet(until they become worn). But the option exists in case it's required for a blade change or whatever reason.
    With some other glues like german made Bty free chack, Ando turbo fix etc etc removing the glue from the sponge is a hassle so much so that it can ruin the sponge on said Jap/Eur rubbers. Can't see the benefit to that.

    But moving away from speedglue times has many advantages. Surely more consitency due to less bad glue job. No more changnig weight of the rubber/racket either.
    But speed glue was magical in its own way too.

    My point was more about the massive hassle I personally found it!

    If I had to re-glue my rubbers now, or "boost" them.... It would be such a pain in the ass!

    I'm very happy I can glue the rubbers on at the start, and then leave them until I need to change the rubber in a few months time!

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