H3N provincial Orange v blue sponge plus boosting

God the glue layer was nightmare to take off lol

In oder to I remove the Neo glue (or actually any old glue from a sponge) I normally apply 3 additional layers of cheap waterbased glue on the sponge. When these extra layers are dry everything comes off easily in one big piece. I don't use my thumb anymore, just extra glue. Much better for the sponge.

Originally Posted by MK73

In oder to I remove the Neo glue (or actually any old glue from a sponge) I normally apply 3 additional layers of cheap waterbased glue on the sponge. When these extra layers are dry everything comes off easily in one big piece. I don't use my thumb anymore, just extra glue. Much better for the sponge.

Why don’t you just buy the non-Neo version which is cheaper?

Am I getting it right that the difference between "old" H3 and H3 Neo is the latter having factory booster and glue layer?
Sponge and topsheet the same?

Why don’t you just buy the non-Neo version which is cheaper?

I didn't talk about myself. I usually play H3 Prov OS or Skyline 3 BS non-Neo.

Originally Posted by dajdosta

Am I getting it right that the difference between "old" H3 and H3 Neo is the latter having factory booster and glue layer?
Sponge and topsheet the same?

That’s correct.

Non-Neo version requires at least a layer of water-based glue before boosting.

You can apply booster directly onto a Neo H3.

Originally Posted by SFF_lib

That’s correct.

Non-Neo version requires at least a layer of water-based glue before boosting.

You can apply booster directly onto a Neo H3.

Thx. I was under impression that there must be some other differences because it seems to me that big majority of players boost Neo version which doesn't make sense?
Is non-Neo version that hard to buy or are people unaware of the fact it's the same rubber but cheaper and easier to boost?

Originally Posted by SFF_lib

That’s correct.

Non-Neo version requires at least a layer of water-based glue before boosting.

You can apply booster directly onto a Neo H3.

This is actually wrong.
I know that there are several recipes doing it this way to let the booster sink slowly into the sponge, though letting the oil sink into the sponge is exactly what we want.

Several other reasons NOT to glue before boosting:
- Having a layer of glue between the glue and the sponge makes it physically impossible to spread the booster as equally as possible onto the sponge. But this is exactly what we need to prevent different behaviour from you strokes across the rubber

- Boosting onto the glue has a risk of removing little parts of the glue on the brush, which will land and resolve in the booster.

- Having the rubber react later to the booster because of the glue makes it way harder to predict the dome, which will happen slower. If it is still curling and gluing it onto your blade, you will have problems keeping your rubber on the blade

You can find more about that topic in the thread i posted several times.

Originally Posted by dajdosta

Thx. I was under impression that there must be some other differences because it seems to me that big majority of players boost Neo version which doesn't make sense?
Is non-Neo version that hard to buy or are people unaware of the fact it's the same rubber but cheaper and easier to boost?

The reason is simple: Boosting requires a bit of experience and is kind of a hassle. If you dont want to bother boosting just pick the neo version and put on your blade. It is a way easier to use rubber than the plain Hurricane 3 unboosted.
AND you can expand using that rubber if you reboost it, though your results may differ a bit to the neo version you used unboosted.

Originally Posted by Attitude

The reason is simple: Boosting requires a bit of experience and is kind of a hassle. If you dont want to bother boosting just pick the neo version and put on your blade. It is a way easier to use rubber than the plain Hurricane 3 unboosted.
AND you can expand using that rubber if you reboost it, though your results may differ a bit to the neo version you used unboosted.

I guess you misread my post.
My question is why people who boost do it with H3 Neo if plain H3 is the same rubber but cheaper and easier to boost (no need to remove factory glue before boosting) ?
If I want cheese sandwich with olives and they sell 2 types but without olives: cheese for 20 and cheese-and-ham for 25.
I would buy cheese and add olives myself.
I wouldn't buy cheese-and-ham then throw away ham and put olives.

Originally Posted by dajdosta

I guess you misread my post.
My question is why people who boost do it with H3 Neo if plain H3 is the same rubber but cheaper and easier to boost (no need to remove factory glue before boosting) ?
If I want cheese sandwich with olives and they sell 2 types but without olives: cheese for 20 and cheese-and-ham for 25.
I would buy cheese and add olives myself.
I wouldn't buy cheese-and-ham then throw away ham and put olives.

Weird analogy but i guess i understand.
But besides lack of knowledge i cant give you another reason. I mean i did this myself thinking that the neo version is a complete different rubber - like a better or upgraded version of the normal hurricane 3.

The only known difference between the neo version and the normal one is the factory tuning which you dont need if you gonna boost either way.
On top it makes it even harder to boost as people describe that they glue the rubber to be able to remove the layer that is on the neo version 🤦*♂️

Today, at noon I received, opened a new H3N Prov 39 2.2 OS, cleaned thoroughly the glue(not so difficult actually) and applied the first layer of seamoon. This evening the booster was absorbed and I applied a second layer. It was obvious how much faster the booster was absorbed compared to my last time when I did not clean the sponge(just wiped away the stickiness).
FOr me the sponge of Neo and Commercial is not the same. At least not on my TG3 and TG3Neo which I used to play with. Visible difference.

Originally Posted by SFF_lib

Being a long-term H3 user and lover, I have to admit my disappointment in the newer batch of H3. I have known trustworthy seller in China so I always buy genuine products.I know how to take very good care of my H4 for four years.

My new Neo H3 BS (provincial) came as half tacky, just as tacky as K1 pro. It costs $38USD.

I applied 3 layers of seamoon in my standard boosting procedure. I only play once or twice a week. Three months later, the ball skids on my H3 especially when I tried to do a thin brushing loop against backspin. It only got worse as skidding occurred more often. I had no choice but to seek an alternative.

For many many year I and many other H3 users have been looking for an alternative that can replace H3. I've found it, I have really found it. I will find time to write up a proper review.

Same problem here. Batches from last years also like this too, unlike older batch from celluloid years. Just when the sponge finally broken in (I don't boost it much, only 1 thin layer to speed up break-in process, and to flatten it whenever I need to reglue. I hate to stick a reverse-domed rubbers 😂) , it starts to skids a lot, especially if the topsheet starts to become glossier. I don't know why, though. I always keep my hurricanes clean after training, and cover it tightly with plastic, and eventually it turns glossier as time goes by. The tackiness increase, but it skids so well 😑