Blade Lacquering

**Jdiaz** · 12-31-2021

Hi, I just recently purchased a Timo Boll ALC which has Koto a harder wood as an outer ply. I’m going to glue my rubbers with Water based glue, but I’m considering in lacquering the blade. Should I lacquer it even though I’ll use water based glue and the blade has a hard wood outer ply?

**Kontra** · 12-31-2021

I would suggest you do light coat lacquering.

**DukeGaGa** · 12-31-2021

I recently started lacquering my blades, and now I wish I had done it to all my blades before.

**cytivrat** · 12-31-2021

Tb alc, 1.5 years, ~8 gluing procedures everything is fine without lacquering. Butterfly support said that it is not really necessary and I decided to try without it. However I lacquered my tb spirit around 18 years ago.

**mocker88** · 12-31-2021

You should lacquer your blades just because it's water based glue.

**lodro** · 12-31-2021

it might all depend on the quality of the manufacturing and of course the top veneer, If both are of high grade then lacquering is not necessary.
If one can not make an evaluation of the above quality maybe better to apply a light cote of water-based polyurethane. I tip a lint-free rag into the liquid and then rub it gently onto the surfaces.
I am not claiming this to be the ultimate method but it works for me

**UpSideDownCarl** · 12-31-2021

Originally Posted by lodro

it might all depend on the quality of the manufacturing and of course the top veneer, If both are of high grade then lacquering is not necessary.
If one can not make an evaluation of the above quality maybe better to apply a light cote of water-based polyurethane. I tip a lint-free rag into the liquid and then rub it gently onto the surfaces.
I am not claiming this to be the ultimate method but it works for me

Why Water Based Poly?

I like the old fashioned version. It seems silly to me to put water on a blade when sealing it to protect it from water. But is there a reason for the Water Based version?

I like using MInWax Wipe-On Poly which is thinned and can be rubbed on with a cloth. It takes about 3 min to apply to both sides, maybe a little less. It does take longer to dry. But I like that there is no water in it. And that, as a result of having been thinned, you can put a REALLY thin layer but still cover the whole surface with one thin coat.

In the end, there are lots of ways to go about this. But, I am just curious why someone would prefer a Water Based Sealant. I think the science behind it is cool. I just have not liked any of the ones I tried even though it is convenient that they dry fairly fast.

**BlackCat510** · 12-31-2021

Should 1 ply hinoki blades be lacquered? I’m about to lacquer mine (it’s my first one), but can anyone suggest a reason to not do so?

Since it’s only 1 ply, there’s no top veneer to get pulled off after all.

**UpSideDownCarl** · 12-31-2021

Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.

**lodro** · 12-31-2021

Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl

Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.

I do not actually have a preference for water-based polyurethane . I just use it because i had it in my shed 😂
A little "heads-up" about modern water-based varnishes and paints: ONCE DRIED AND HARDENED THEY ARE NOT INFLUENCED BY WATER .
( or water -based glues.)

So no problemo You use solvent based urethane and I use water-based urethane both dry in minutes, both will seal the blade....... BASTA !!!!!! 😁

**DukeGaGa** · 01-01-2022

Originally Posted by UpSideDownCarl

Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.

Exactly why I do it now, so much easier to take the rubbers off after sealing the blade.

**Lazer** · 01-01-2022

Originally Posted by BlackCat510

Should 1 ply hinoki blades be lacquered? I’m about to lacquer mine (it’s my first one), but can anyone suggest a reason to not do so?

Since it’s only 1 ply, there’s no top veneer to get pulled off after all.

Yes a Hinoki blade should always be laquered. The older it gets the drier and a dried wood splinters easily. Always remember when you rip tho old rubber off to do it across the grains. From left to right not top to bottom.

Cheers
L-zr

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