I've been a french league 1200 at best, equals a 1700 RC level. But I was younger and was training A LOT to get from a beginner level to that 1200, at least 10 to 12 hours a week, and 2 differents leagues (Uni league on wednesdays and french federation team leagues and tourneys on saturdays/sundays). I had a national level coach at Uni, a 1900 ( = 2400 RC) for 5 hours a week. I was playing a lot with him, at least one regular game of 21 pts (it was in the 90's) or a 50 pts game with 3 pts lead per rating difference each session, so from 1000 at that time to 1900 I had 9 x 3 pts = a 27 pts lead to start the game ! I won only once in the second semester
, needless to say: he was highly motivated to win from that 0 - 27 start !!! and I was too of course.
But that's how I climbed from 1000 to 1200 in a single year of training with him. Before that I've been training with a 1600 in my local club ( = RC 2100) at least 2 hours a week as a beginner for the first year, that how I climbed from 500 to 1000 (RC 1500, your goal then) in a single year too. So I went from total noob to RC 1700 in 2 years with RC 2100 and 2400 coaches.
There's no secret: you won't get better without hours of training with a proper coach, but also with the proper racket. As your infos shows, your racket has way too much speed and not enough control to me. Control matters first to get consistency and to avoid those amateur mistakes. I've been using a Tibhar IVL and ALL+ tacky rubbers to learn how to play for the first year to get to that 1000 (RC 1500) rating, Then switched to a Tibhar IVS and Mark V, then to a Clipper with 2.0 mm Mark V, then added speed glue at the very end of the 1st Uni year as my 2400 coach suggested.
But I soon switched to a regular glue set-up with a more gentle OFF- 7 ply all wood blade with Donic Vario 2.0 mm rubbers by the end of the 2nd Uni year, and this is what I still use now with Stiga DNA Pro M rubbers: to me after that P ball introduction and being nearly 50 of age, the new ball only required 3 to 5 ° more for sponge hardness with the same 2.0 or 2.1 thickness. The DHS 301 to me is way too much harder, stiff and fast to start with. If you don't train that much and want to keep the rubbers you use with a DHS blade, go for the DHS Wind Series W3010, or any ALL + 5 ply all wood blade like the Butterfly XStar V, the Maze Advance if really the Xstar is not enough speedy. The Tibhar MX-P might too much bouncy too ... ? why not switching to an EL-P rubber ?