Oh, well I guess I'll just ignore the coach I train three hours a week with and go with whatever you, a random nobody on the Internet, says about my playing with SP. This kind of shitposting is why the video footage safe thread got created.
Carbon vs Wood
- Thread starter PingBirdPong
- Start date
I am weird in this respect, but I find inner composite less controllable than outer, and not playing like all-wood at all. I do see how the feeling of contact is more like a five ply wood. But the actual result is not linear. There is some tipping point with inner construction where suddenly the ball gets way faster. I haven't tried many of those baldes because I didn't like the ones I did try, so my experience is limited. But the outer carbon, although it feels nothing like all wood as far as the contact, behaves more like it with the linearity. I also think I have one of the slowest outer carbon blades with a slow rubber H8.
says
toooooo much choice!!
says
toooooo much choice!!
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When I was 16ish (oh so long ago!!!) I loved the BTY TAMCA 5000, with Tackiness D and Sriver. Now 40ish yrs later, its All Wood (generally) but the blade I'm using now has carbon, but is defensive. Personally I think that rubbers can be seen to make more of a difference.
When I started playing again, I put Stiga Mantra M onto the old TAMCA 5000 thinking I'd be good to go!!!! couldn't keep a ball on the table!!! moved straight back to a trusty old 5ply Grubba, things improved!!!!
My feelings on Carbon v Wood are that really they are both good!!!
Types of carbon can be added without increasing the 'speed' of the blade, and can increase sweet spot etc
So I don't really see things in the same light as many people regarding carbon it appears!!!!!!
Which do I prefer??? LOL Slow rather than fast!!!!!!
When I started playing again, I put Stiga Mantra M onto the old TAMCA 5000 thinking I'd be good to go!!!! couldn't keep a ball on the table!!! moved straight back to a trusty old 5ply Grubba, things improved!!!!
My feelings on Carbon v Wood are that really they are both good!!!
Types of carbon can be added without increasing the 'speed' of the blade, and can increase sweet spot etc
So I don't really see things in the same light as many people regarding carbon it appears!!!!!!
Which do I prefer??? LOL Slow rather than fast!!!!!!
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Yesterday I tried my CLCR with BS H3 and Mantra M.
The H3 still flies off the table, but the Mantra felt awesome. One issue though: The CR coating on the blade paired with some laquer I put on makes it so slippery that rubbers fall off very often, and I’m losing hundreds in glue. How do I solve this?
The H3 still flies off the table, but the Mantra felt awesome. One issue though: The CR coating on the blade paired with some laquer I put on makes it so slippery that rubbers fall off very often, and I’m losing hundreds in glue. How do I solve this?
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You can use a lower grit sandpaper to slightly scuff the surface a little so the glue has someplace to grab on to. 220 grit should do. Or maybe hipnotic (SDC blades) could give some suggestions, he’s the expert in these kind of things .
says
spin it
says
spin it
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Do you have a video showing your FH top spins? I want to see and potentially comment.
Also, I will say it again in this thread: never had any splintering issues with glue like DHS #15, even with cheap DHS PG-7s and Sanwei Fextras. Therefore never sealed my blades.
Just pull off the rubber from the handle to the top of the blade direction.
So the 2 most popular blades in China are CLCR and TB ALC/Viscaria ? 
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Do you have a video showing your FH top spins? I want to see and potentially comment.Also, I will say it again in this thread: never had any splintering issues with glue like DHS #15, even with cheap DHS PG-7s and Sanwei Fextras. Therefore never sealed my blades.
Just pull off the rubber from the handle to the top of the blade direction.
So the 2 most popular blades in China are CLCR and TB ALC/Viscaria ?
@Lazer would disagree on the way to peel off the rubber. And in my experience I tend to agree with @Lazer on this, side to side peeling is the better way to avoid splinters.
Just think about this, peeling top to bottom or bottom to top or even diagonally will lift any the loose wood pieces off and peel it along the grain, where as side to side you only lift off the loose part.
Or think about this, if your cuticle skin is peeling, and you don’t have a nail clipper with you, would you try peeling along your finger? I wouldn’t. And in the case of blades, the loose wood grain behaves the same way.
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Why did you put laquer on top of Stiga's UV goo? I would think the the stuff Stiga coats it with would be enough to seal the blade.
Regarding glue strength the Andro Free Glue and Xiom i-Bond are the best. Not sure if these are still produced, but the other German glues are pretty strong too. But they are a real pain in the ass to remove from the sponge of the rubbers and can damage the sponge. If you can get it, you can try how it works out. I'd probably do it with some old rubbers first so you don't ruin your new ones.
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Now that I've read your post I completely agree. And even though I did remove rubbers incorrectly...still no splintering
And yes, I put 2-3 layers of DHS #15...
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Crazy idea, but what if you boost the rubbers xD.
It's something that seems counter-intuitive, but I felt the same way when I was using my Fang Bo B2X, especially when looping under. The ball would often times go long.
Boosting made it easier to play balls imo.
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If you are going to sand the blade use aanding block to not mess up the level of the blade.
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I sealed my blade because I had a wood blade that splintered, and half the top veneer came off. That was traumatizing.
I use Liulan glue, which is pretty nice and popular in China. I think it’s fine.
I sanded down the edges a little, hope that helps.
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Thanks for the offer! I’ll try to get footage this weekend, but no guarantees.Do you have a video showing your FH top spins? I want to see and potentially comment.Also, I will say it again in this thread: never had any splintering issues with glue like DHS #15, even with cheap DHS PG-7s and Sanwei Fextras. Therefore never sealed my blades.
Just pull off the rubber from the handle to the top of the blade direction.
So the 2 most popular blades in China are CLCR and TB ALC/Viscaria ?
But I will not put it here, because of certain reasons. If I can, I’ll put it in the safe thread, and make a special request to allow you to comment.
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welp. Whenever sanding anything you want to be flat, check with straight edge afterwards. If you only sanded edges that shouldn't matter as much, because you do not hit the ball on the edges that much.
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That's not a crazy idea... Boosting causes similar changes as good old speed glue did. A bit more speed but more spin. More spin = more control = more balls on the table. Tiefenbacher and Durey found +4% more speed and 12% more spin in their 1994 paper 1) and noted that "Speed gluing increases E_Par only for small perpendicular velocities... The difference is lost at the higher velocities which are corresponding to most tt-strokes.But a remarkable increase of T_Par is found for all velocities." (E_Par coefficient of restitution (COR) for perpendicular impacts, T_par COR for tangential impacts i.e. speed and more importantly spin)
1) https://sasportssience.blob.core.wi...iles/IJTTS_2_1_14_Tiefenbacher_The Impact.pdf
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Rubbers aren't homogenous in thickness either, so seriously unless You really take off a lot I don't think it matters much...
Cheers
L-zr
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Rubbers are comoressible, wood is not. If you sand ba hand you are creating pitting where you fingers are. Good 0.2-0.3 (single layer of 3d printed object, that's the closest reference i have) damage happened when clubmate sanded the face of the blade.
I would say it is a good practice to just use a block of wood or other relatively straight block.
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