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  1. lodro is offline
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    #101
    Quote Originally Posted by TareqPhoto

    I tried H39 2.15mm already unboosted, very nice, not soft that much, but slower than what i used before, and less tacky, so i feel like i have so mixed rubbers then, i really don't know which version of H3 i had before because i bought it from a coach cut already and he didn't know any details, and both rubbers acts different to my hands, now i will get the racket of H39 2.15mm boosted and see how that will perform in my hand, then also H40 2.1mm BS not sure to boost it or not, but the coach [another one] who will boost for me just said that all Chinese rubbers mainly DHS should be boosted, not sure if that is a fact or not, and funny is that he said all H3 rubbers are hard and you said it is soft, that is why someone like me get lost between many reviews and opinions.

    Now i am trying to decide between 37 or 38 or 39 for my BH, and you said that 37 is too soft, so i will go with 1-2 degree harder then, but if i go with 37 for example, will it be that soft even if not boosted? And how if compare it with let say 39 boosted then.

    hi, if you keep reading this thread you will likely come to the conclusion that pretty much everyone is confused.
    Numbers do not seem to have much meaning.
    Also it is important to know that every rubber will behave different on individual blades.
    I know it is a bit "nerdy" but it may be helpful to take notes.
    Start with noting the frequency of your blade(s)
    Then write down how you like the racket and how it behaves and feels for you with different rubbers
    Make a note if the rubber is boosted
    etc.
    Even top guns like Timo Boll glue their rubbers onto their blades, if you rely on a shop or a coach to do
    the job you will never really know what you got


  2. PingBirdPong is offline
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    #102
    Quote Originally Posted by lodro

    hi, if you keep reading this thread you will likely come to the conclusion that pretty much everyone is confused.Numbers do not seem to have much meaning.Also it is important to know that every rubber will behave different on individual blades.I know it is a bit "nerdy" but it may be helpful to take notes.Start with noting the frequency of your blade(s)Then write down how you like the racket and how it behaves and feels for you with different rubbersMake a note if the rubber is boostedetc.Even top guns like Timo Boll glue their rubbers onto their blades, if you rely on a shop or a coach to dothe job you will never really know what you got

    I get more and more disoriented the further I read…the hardness of H3 has some golden rules:start with 39, stick with it for 3 months, if you feel like it’s mushy, go up to 40 and play for a few years at least. If the 39 feels too hard, and you fail to lift backspin, go to 38. If you feel crisp on hard contact and soft on short, stick to 39.

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    Last edited by PingBirdPong; 06-25-2022 at 10:05 PM.
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  3. brokenball is offline
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    #103
    Quote Originally Posted by lodro

    hi, if you keep reading this thread you will likely come to the conclusion that pretty much everyone is confused.
    Numbers do not seem to have much meaning.

    I am not confused. Neither is anybody that says the numbers don't have much meaning. Hardness is going to be a preference but there is too soft and too hard. Hardness isn't a factor in the coefficient of restitution.

    There is way too much talk about equipment and boosting on this forum and not enough about technique. More videos would be good too.

  4. lodro is offline
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    #104
    Quote Originally Posted by brokenball
    I am not confused. Neither is anybody that says the numbers don't have much meaning. Hardness is going to be a preference but there is too soft and too hard. Hardness isn't a factor in the coefficient of restitution.

    There is way too much talk about equipment and boosting on this forum and not enough about technique. More videos would be good too.

    I think we have a little misunderstanding here. Those that have , shall we say, ""Arrived"" at the conclusion are of cause NOT
    confused. The confusion is however widespread amongst all those that are still seeking for the proper blade, the proper hardness of rubbers and of course the needed combination of the both.
    For all of them it is a jungle out there full of misinformation, vague advertisement and plain lies.


  5. Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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    #105
    Quote Originally Posted by TareqPhoto
    So from the table the coach was right, almost all DHS H3 rubbers are hard even for 37/38, no wonder why he suggested to boost DHS rubbers then.

    37/38 is very soft for me, no need to boost it.
    So obviously you don't have the technical strokes for such kind of rubbers?

    in forum language, its called the Chinese stroke.

    TTT

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    #106
    There is so much BS on this forum.
    There is no force or impulse that one rubber can generate that another can't. It may take a different stroke but what I say is true.
    An impulse is the integration of the force over the contact time. Some of you call this dwell time. If two impulses are the same the resulting trajectories will be the same.
    So what is a Chinese stroke?
    I want a detailed definition.

    Don't bother. I can prove you are full of BS. Unless ALL Chinese players use the same rubber then the stroke at impact will need to be different to generate the same impulse. Also, the stroke before or after contact makes NO difference as long as the impulse during contact is the same.
    You can't refute this.

    BTW, you guys would still be arguing about how long a dwell time is if it weren't for my old high speed videos.
    I have a much better camera now, USDC has seen resulting videos, but I am not motivated to make more videos.




  7. lodro is offline
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    #107
    Quote Originally Posted by brokenball
    There is so much BS on this forum.
    There is no force or impulse that one rubber can generate that another can't. It may take a different stroke but what I say is true.
    An impulse is the integration of the force over the contact time. Some of you call this dwell time. If two impulses are the same the resulting trajectories will be the same.
    So what is a Chinese stroke?
    I want a detailed definition.

    Don't bother. I can prove you are full of BS. Unless ALL Chinese players use the same rubber then the stroke at impact will need to be different to generate the same impulse. Also, the stroke before or after contact makes NO difference as long as the impulse during contact is the same.
    You can't refute this.

    BTW, you guys would still be arguing about how long a dwell time is if it weren't for my old high speed videos.
    I have a much better camera now, USDC has seen resulting videos, but I am not motivated to make more videos.

    😁😁😁 Oh boy, I think you picked the wrong guy in Tony and you just started world war III 😁😁😁

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  8. Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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    #108
    Quote Originally Posted by lodro

    😁😁😁 Oh boy, I think you picked the wrong guy in Tony and you just started world war III 😁😁😁

    This guy has been banned before,
    more of his nonsense and stirring nonsense (he can keep his nonsense in his own thread that no one wants to entertain), he might just need to take some holiday and come back with a new name again like before.

    Talks about video - yet to see one of him.

    Its like someone with a phd in cooking (or thinks he has), teaching pro chef how to cook. Who would you trust?
    maybe in some trade, sitting behind a computer with theory can make things happen.
    But in the real world, whats the purpose if the theory cannot be implemented practically?

    any business school graduate will say - those MBA professors, with all the theories in the world, might actually be very lousy entrepreneurs.
    You just can't theorize practical experience and street smart.

    Any ways, he is right, Chinese style doesn't exist. Its a forbidden secret.
    Pretend no one said anything. Euro style is the only style and everyone in the CNT is just day dreaming of a .5 degree in sponge difference dream 😂

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    Last edited by Tony's Table Tennis; 06-26-2022 at 06:21 AM.
    TTT

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    #109
    1. I love my two blades from DHS, never mentioned i don't like them, i just need alternative rubbers that are not Tenergy and not MX-P, so new or different rubbers it will always catch my curiosity and confusion for a while.

    2. I already played and bought DHS rubbers, one i played for a while before it is stolen, the other i am still in use, but i can ask anyway, and i asked about hardness mainly.

    3. Techniques and styles is another story, if i need that then i can ask "What style or what techniques i should use/do for this blade or that rubber or.....?", but i didn't, so i leave this topic away for now here.

    4. I play for fun, and for that i don't mind play with anything, but i don't open the door to buy anything then i won't stop, and i might regret many stuff i could buy and at some points i might feel that i have to stop playing TT as i spent a lot or non wisely, i won't go buy each recommended rubber or blade only to collect or follow others dresses, and it is not always true that what is ok for you isn't ok for me, why not be ok for both, or not ok for both, i can adjust, but i hate to change my style or produce new techniques and working hard to adjust to new setup, i gave that lady i always play with her my blade Long 5X for the first time and it has two almost dead rubbers of Tenergy 80 on both sides, she was able to beat me more than before playing with her racket that she bought from me or playing with my other racket of DHS Hao III with Rakza 7 soft rubber and new one DHS H3 NEO, so she didn't take time or techniques to adjust immediately, and we play for fun, she will leave soon, so i have to rise up or jump my skill and style a bit to find other opponents who knows could be better and stronger but play for fun only.

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  10. Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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    #110
    Quote Originally Posted by TareqPhoto
    1. I love my two blades from DHS, never mentioned i don't like them, i just need alternative rubbers that are not Tenergy and not MX-P, so new or different rubbers it will always catch my curiosity and confusion for a while.

    2. I already played and bought DHS rubbers, one i played for a while before it is stolen, the other i am still in use, but i can ask anyway, and i asked about hardness mainly.

    3. Techniques and styles is another story, if i need that then i can ask "What style or what techniques i should use/do for this blade or that rubber or.....?", but i didn't, so i leave this topic away for now here.

    4. I play for fun, and for that i don't mind play with anything, but i don't open the door to buy anything then i won't stop, and i might regret many stuff i could buy and at some points i might feel that i have to stop playing TT as i spent a lot or non wisely, i won't go buy each recommended rubber or blade only to collect or follow others dresses, and it is not always true that what is ok for you isn't ok for me, why not be ok for both, or not ok for both, i can adjust, but i hate to change my style or produce new techniques and working hard to adjust to new setup, i gave that lady i always play with her my blade Long 5X for the first time and it has two almost dead rubbers of Tenergy 80 on both sides, she was able to beat me more than before playing with her racket that she bought from me or playing with my other racket of DHS Hao III with Rakza 7 soft rubber and new one DHS H3 NEO, so she didn't take time or techniques to adjust immediately, and we play for fun, she will leave soon, so i have to rise up or jump my skill and style a bit to find other opponents who knows could be better and stronger but play for fun only.

    Xiom J&K Z52.5

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    #111
    Quote Originally Posted by Tony's Table Tennis

    Xiom J&K Z52.5

    Thank you


  12. PingBirdPong is offline
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    #112
    The hardness is actually a lottery with the quality control of commercial H3s. One of my friends bought a “40 degree” and got a rock. We had an equipment seller test the hardness, and is was somewhere around 45 degrees!🤣

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    #113
    Quote Originally Posted by PingBirdPong
    The hardness is actually a lottery with the quality control of commercial H3s. One of my friends bought a “40 degree” and got a rock. We had an equipment seller test the hardness, and is was somewhere around 45 degrees!🤣

    for trade outside China, hardness could not be reported in degrees until last year, precisely because the hardness had a large tolerance, the ITTF did not allow it until 2020, when hardness 37, 38, 39, 40 and 41 began to be reported.
    Previously, DHS referred to hardness, soft 35-37, medium 38-40 and hard 41-43.


  14. Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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    #114
    Quote Originally Posted by harty

    for trade outside China, hardness could not be reported in degrees until last year, precisely because the hardness had a large tolerance, the ITTF did not allow it until 2020, when hardness 37, 38, 39, 40 and 41 began to be reported.
    Previously, DHS referred to hardness, soft 35-37, medium 38-40 and hard 41-43.

    hardness has been reported way before 2020
    commercial versions use the soft/medium/hard from 2019 (if im correct)
    prov, national and comm before 2019 all use individual degrees
    prov/national still use individual degrees today.

    reference - DHS dealer price list to me

    TTT

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    #115
    Should i call ITTF for hardness permission?!!! 🤣

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    #116
    Quote Originally Posted by harty
    for trade outside China, hardness could not be reported in degrees until last year, precisely because the hardness had a large tolerance, the ITTF did not allow it until 2020, when hardness 37, 38, 39, 40 and 41 began to be reported.
    Previously, DHS referred to hardness, soft 35-37, medium 38-40 and hard 41-43.
    Harty, I'm getting a bit off-topic. You have a good offer for H3 Neo commercial H40 and H41 (I wouldn't mind non-Neo, but that is sold out). Anyway, the available thickness is 2.1, 2.15, 2.2. Question for me is, should I take 2.15 or 2.2. Don't get me wrong, I don't care much about the thickness, and difference at all. My reasoning is this: the 2.15 exists, so that when you boost, you'll still be officially inside the allowed total thickness. The 2.2, you probably might get over the allowed total thickness. In my case, regional czech (KP1, now KP2), nobody gives a s..., but I am after the quality. Can it be, that due to this "being officially OK", the 2.15 quality is a bit higher than 2.2, or is it non-sense, and the quality doesn't have anything to do with it?

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  17. lodro is offline
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    #117
    Quote Originally Posted by PingBirdPong
    The hardness is actually a lottery with the quality control of commercial H3s. One of my friends bought a “40 degree” and got a rock. We had an equipment seller test the hardness, and is was somewhere around 45 degrees!🤣

    Absolutely agree, it is a lottery. Not only for DHS products. While still in the beginners phase of "search" I once bought a 868 Kokutaku rubber because it was a) cheap and b) advertised as 46 H. in reality it is even softer than my Hurricane neo37.

    When i bought Hurricane rubbers from Tabletennis11 and asked for 38H they told me that under Euro-laws they could not
    sell anything with such hardness specifications unless the actual hardness could be measured and guaranteed. Therefore, and because it could not be guaranteed, they are selling the Hurricane rubbers as " soft / medium/ or hard."
    Of course there is still no guarantee that if you order a "soft" version that you will get a soft rubber but words like soft , hard etc. are "non-specific" with other words : Long live the lottery 🤣


  18. lodro is offline
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    #118
    Quote Originally Posted by latej
    Harty, I'm getting a bit off-topic. You have a good offer for H3 Neo commercial H40 and H41 (I wouldn't mind non-Neo, but that is sold out). Anyway, the available thickness is 2.1, 2.15, 2.2. Question for me is, should I take 2.15 or 2.2. Don't get me wrong, I don't care much about the thickness, and difference at all. My reasoning is this: the 2.15 exists, so that when you boost, you'll still be officially inside the allowed total thickness. The 2.2, you probably might get over the allowed total thickness. In my case, regional czech (KP1, now KP2), nobody gives a s..., but I am after the quality. Can it be, that due to this "being officially OK", the 2.15 quality is a bit higher than 2.2, or is it non-sense, and the quality doesn't have anything to do with it?

    ............and who can actually put their hand up and say : " Yes, I have taken the 2.15 sponge of the brand new rubber and
    measured its thickness and it was a perfect 2.15mm measured with calipers and micrometer " 😆

    The lottery continues ...................


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    #119
    In terms of how to get the desired hardness, looking for the specific ruber weight might be a good way. This method is described here: https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37360#p385400 second and third paragraph of this post. So maybe it will be possible to ask the seller for the rubber that weights around X g packed (I guess that should not be a problem with TT11 ).
    Last edited by wiktor145; 06-26-2022 at 09:31 PM.

  20. lodro is offline
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    #120
    Quote Originally Posted by wiktor145
    In terms of how to get the desired hardness, looking for the specific ruber weight might be a good way. This method is described here: https://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=37360#p385400 second and third paragraph of this post. So maybe it will be possible to ask the seller for the rubber that weights around X g packed (I guess that should not be a problem with TT11 ).

    it definitely confirms my "lottery-theory" 😁
    Unfortunately i do not think I will live long enough to have them time to establish an elaborate Excel-file system.Therefore i shall
    use the old-fashioned "Forrest Gump system" : Buying TT-rubbers is like opening a box of chocolates , you never know what you gonna get.

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