DHS Hurricane hardness

Originally Posted by Tony's Table Tennis

This is what a normal reply look likes.

I love it when people are comparing what well established players are using versus semi pro/development players are using.
maybe in your world, you will get a 12 year old wanting to use what Ma Long is using too, because "they play" a similar style, and of course, just as good too.

Let's fulfill those children dreams, let's give them all National Pro Long 5 blade and DHS National blue sponge FH and Tenergy Dignics maybe as BH, they are our hopes and future 😁😉

Originally Posted by Colin Ksh

Guys I have some questions here. Please do allow me to ask. Sry if it's off topic.
1. I plan on buying h3 neo prov bs either getting 39 or 40 degree since it's affordable for me(first time h3 user or even any chinese rubber alike). I'll boost it with haifu seamoon. As I've read, boosting makes the sponge softer so should i get 40 over 39? cuz I'm worried boosting 39 degree will casue it to be like excessively soft. Or as a newbie h3 user, is 39 already enough or like a good start. Any suggestions on that please.

2. Should I add a layer/layers of glue on sponge before boosting or should i apply the booster directly without any additional glue layers prior. I've seen the two sides so what's the difference between applying glue layers first or not i.e only booster.
what's the better way among two for someone who wants to use the rubber for as long as possible.

I've read this article : https://blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost


3.does using protective flim (something like xiom o-foil) helps to maintain the rubber tackiness i mean is it effective?

Thanks beforehand to my fellow friends

I didn't know about Hardness much when i ordered as i thought it was the topsheet hardness and not the sponge, but i ordered the H40 so i can boost it fine, also i ordered thin sponge, 2.1mm, which means it can be a bit fast if the sponge is getting boosted and softer, so no more dive in, that might help me for smashes, it is a test anyway.

Originally Posted by latej

Hi there old master Lodro, you are such a frequent poster, that I've put myself on a mission to teach you to properly quote the replies. This will be my ever lasting contribution to humanity. Or at least until you write your will (Rico we go 50/50 on those H3s, ok?).

So, the problem is. Tony writes a long message, and you want to reply only to a part of it. You press reply, go there, press enter to start your line, but you still remain in quoted part, which of course is stupid. But it is so. You need to start editing the reply in the "source" mode. It is not hard, you'll manage. So press the <source> button, the button on the very right side. There is only 1 button. Then you'll see the text in the source mode, you can remove parts of Tony's message, while keeping his message inside these 2 tags:

[ quote="Tony's Table Tennis;373654" ]
and
[ / quote ]

Put your own text outside those tags. Now please reply to my message using this. :-)

So kind, thanks, I never even knew about the source button but i will try..........next time.
Now, the reason it all looks so silly is of course my fault.
I normally used to press " reply to xyz post", then edit out what i did not need.
Every time ido that now, it became impossible to post it because i always get the loverly error message :

Can not post because you only used less than 5 letters ( or some crap like this)

Therefore i need to press the simple "reply button"" and do the fancy copy / paste / cut....blah blah blah

Are you still with me ? btw. can you program and test fly my model helicopter to do some rolls ??😁

I will ask a coach friend to boost and glue it for me because he did for his racket, he has Haifu Seamoon, so i am sure he has experience about how to do it, i already gave him commercial standard H3 NEW rubber to boost it for me for another racket, once my Provincial H3 arrives then i will ask him again to do it, boosting it, but if anyone here has any opinion/advice about boosting 2.1mm H40 H3 rubber then let me know quick please.

Originally Posted by Colin Ksh

Guys I have some questions here. Please do allow me to ask. Sry if it's off topic.
1. I plan on buying h3 neo prov bs either getting 39 or 40 degree since it's affordable for me(first time h3 user or even any chinese rubber alike). I'll boost it with haifu seamoon. As I've read, boosting makes the sponge softer so should i get 40 over 39? cuz I'm worried boosting 39 degree will casue it to be like excessively soft. Or as a newbie h3 user, is 39 already enough or like a good start. Any suggestions on that please.

2. Should I add a layer/layers of glue on sponge before boosting or should i apply the booster directly without any additional glue layers prior. I've seen the two sides so what's the difference between applying glue layers first or not i.e only booster.
what's the better way among two for someone who wants to use the rubber for as long as possible.

I've read this article : https://blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost


3.does using protective flim (something like xiom o-foil) helps to maintain the rubber tackiness i mean is it effective?

Thanks beforehand to my fellow friends

I use 39 deg boosted and it’s certainly it too soft for me - I prefer it to 40 or 41 on my FH.

I use the nittaku sticky protector sheets on it to keep it tacky after cleaning post play.

Originally Posted by Colin Ksh

Guys I have some questions here. Please do allow me to ask. Sry if it's off topic.

Off topic, LOL :-) Wait for my reply to Lodro...

1. I plan on buying h3 neo prov bs either getting 39 or 40 degree since it's affordable for me(first time h3 user or even any chinese rubber alike). I'll boost it with haifu seamoon. As I've read, boosting makes the sponge softer so should i get 40 over 39? cuz I'm worried boosting 39 degree will casue it to be like excessively soft. Or as a newbie h3 user, is 39 already enough or like a good start. Any suggestions on that please.

It all depends on your level and on how hard you hit, well, on the balance of it. For example, for my beginner friend I bought H37 (on a inner-force type blade, Vodak Horejsi APC). I expect he will use harder and harder rubbers on the FH as he progresses (if he stays with those type of rubbers). On the BH, I don't know, H37 is fine for me. So if you are 1st time user of chinese tacky rubber, then depending on your level, I'd go for H37, H38 or H39. Of course you want BS, so only H39 fulfills. I just don't want you to be disappointed.

Maybe you saw the hardness translation table in another recent thread. I posted it, I don't remember who I have it from, but I think it was zeio, who posted it on TTD. Anyway, if you like hardness 54 on the FH, go for H40, if 52 or less, go for H39. Due to the deadness, it feels subjectively harder, that's why I used number 54 and 52 (the higher ones of the ranges).

2. Should I add a layer/layers of glue on sponge before boosting or should i apply the booster directly without any additional glue layers prior. I've seen the two sides so what's the difference between applying glue layers first or not i.e only booster.
what's the better way among two for someone who wants to use the rubber for as long as possible.

I've read this article : https://blog.tabletennis11.com/to-boost-or-not-to-boost

In boosting, I believe it is important to achieve uniform/even amount of the booster over the whole rubber. You do this by applying thin amount, wait until absorbed like 12 or 24 hours. Even if you spread properly, you'll see islands of more booster after a while, you can try to correct/spread it. Layers - 2x is enough for start, you'll see how it domes. You can use 3x next time. Whether glue first or booster first, opinions differ. I respect both, I personally do booster on sponge, glue later, but the other way is fine, tried it too.

3.does using protective flim (something like xiom o-foil) helps to maintain the rubber tackiness i mean is it effective?

Thanks beforehand to my fellow friends

Yes, I believe so. There are different protective sheets. And I'm using the whiteish plastic sheet that was delivered with Donic Bluegrips, it has the right firmness. I remove the air with fingers when I place the sheet on it, after I clean the rubbers, which I do usually after each training. Still, the durability of the recent H3 prov BS is less than durability of H3 red H37, don't know why.

Originally Posted by lodro

So kind, thanks, I never even knew about the source button but i will try..........next time.
Now, the reason it all looks so silly is of course my fault.
I normally used to press " reply to xyz post", then edit out what i did not need.
Every time ido that now, it became impossible to post it because i always get the loverly error message :

Can not post because you only used less than 5 letters ( or some crap like this)

Therefore i need to press the simple "reply button"" and do the fancy copy / paste / cut....blah blah blah

:-)

Another thing, as you can see in my reply to Colin (and here too), is to "cut" his reply to pieces, by pasting [ /quote ][ quote ] in the positions where I intend to reply something. That way, only the first piece of his text will be quoted with this "Originally Posted by Colin Ksh", and the other pieces will be "just" quoted, without repeating the "Originally ...". Of course the editor should do it automatically. But, it is achievable in the "source" mode. Common, do it. Tony needs to eat his popcorn! It's just copy&paste.

Are you still with me ? btw. can you program and test fly my model helicopter to do some rolls ??😁

It depends on how many H3s is in that stock of yours! Eventually I'd be able to do this, but in this area, the cost of 1st time is high. It's a while since I did my last coding in C++, actually a radar warning system for London based company. Nowadays coding in higher level language, called Scala. The H3 of programming languages. No equal in sight :-)

So which hardness is equivalent to rubbers as those:

Rakza 7 Soft
BTY Tenergy 05FX
BTY T80FX

Originally Posted by TareqPhoto

So which hardness is equivalent to rubbers as those:

Rakza 7 Soft
BTY Tenergy 05FX
BTY T80FX

Credits to zeio. And if I credit wrong, then apologies in advance...

Originally Posted by Kuba Hajto

Welp. I do not quite agree with this. It goes against my personal experience. Hard rubber with the APC caused hesitation on my end. G1 felt much better because it was easier to always engage the sponge.

Hi Kuba, I didn't try G1 yet. I have it in the back of my mind, because some very modest TTD members speak about it highly. But there is something also, which keeps me cautious - the top-sheet hardness. I tried B2 H39 recently (and B2 prov. H40 a while ago) and its top-sheet felt a bit harder for me than H3 prov. The H3 comm. top-sheet feels even softer than H3 prov. top-sheet. SFF_Lib recently spoke about it, the TG3, which I never tried, looks very interesting. Still, it seems, the H3 top-sheet seems to be a sweet spot for me. And people say G1 has harder top-sheet (I mean generally, not against H3). I don't know, I'd have to try. About the hardness, the B2 H39 on some shots was too soft for me. As I said, it depends on the whole balance of it, but eventually I decided, I don't want to waste my balls on it, and I need H40/41. That is also why I was maximally curious about how long Tony will stay with his H39. But as Tony explained, he is using this mostly for feeding balls to others. So he rarely uses his max. power. My level is several levels bellow his, but in my style, I do need harder sponge sometime. And even on Horejsi ALC (you know the diff to APC), it feels right.

Night :-)

Originally Posted by latej

the top-sheet hardness.

Night :-)

How do you actually measure the top-sheet hardness ????
By feel ???

Originally Posted by Kuba Hajto

You can measure the rubbers hardness with durometer but you would have to shave the pimples.

Now don't be rude, give Latej a chance to say his thing 😂
but then again, "shaving pimples " sounds great, just say where and when 😁

Originally Posted by latej

Credits to zeio. And if I credit wrong, then apologies in advance...

And?

I don't know the hardness number of those rubbers, do you know where i can get those numbers of hardness of those mentioned rubbers so i can use the table?