Which rubbers come with the glue-layer on sponge and plastic cover on sponge?

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I just cut a new sheet of Yinhe Jupiter 3 onto my blade. The sponge side of the rubber was covered by a plastic cover. Under the plastic cover, there is a glossy and slightly sticky layer of glue on the sponge side. Clearly this is a indication that the rubber was factory tuned, and I guess the glue/plastic is an attempt to protect the booster.

Which other rubbers come in this type of packaging? I have a feint memory that H3N and Big Dipper have something like this?
 
says Table tennis clown
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[quote="Michael Zhuang;374564"Clearly this is a indication that the rubber was factory tuned, and I guess the glue/plastic is an attempt to protect the booster.


This has also always been my belief but of course it has never been confirmed by official sources and especially not by a manufacturer. Ergo it remains exactly as you quote it "an indication"

I think one further "indication " might be when a rubber is sold in a vacuum pack and while it looks to me thatH3N could be - I am not sure about this either. It kinda looks like it but maybe excess air was just pressed out with rollers just before the plastic pocket was sealed.

I do not know any other rubbers that are sold like this, others will know better.
 
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all yinhe rubbers are sold like this
and your indication is right.

I often keep that plastic film and give it to players to use as a rubber protector film (even though Yinhe does come with sticky films, these non stick films can also be used)

 
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I tried this Jupiter 3 rubber. I thought it would be similar to H3N, because there are a lot of H3 clones out there. But its nowhere near as tacky as H3, and its quite a bit bouncier than H3. It's actually very similar to Big Dipper.

It's spinny enough, and on the fast side for a tacky rubber. I'm quite certain it would perform even better with booster. But this is one of the rare Chinese rubbers that doesn't need booster.

 
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Haifu Black Oil, the cheater"s beloved stuff. Heh, candid camera happened to disclose the crooky Chinese, --familiarity breeds contempt.
 
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DHS rubbers come with the same, especially those ones factory tuned (Provincial, National Version). But what is protected by the plastic foil on the sponge side sometimes is the pre-glue also already added on the rubber. If so, you should fix them on your racket only by adding (water) glue on the blade, not on the rubber, otherwise you might destroy the tuning.
 
says Table tennis clown
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DHS rubbers come with the same, especially those ones factory tuned (Provincial, National Version). But what is protected by the plastic foil on the sponge side sometimes is the pre-glue also already added on the rubber. If so, you should fix them on your racket only by adding (water) glue on the blade, not on the rubber, otherwise you might destroy the tuning.

Interesting new insight re tuning and glue.
Have you got any idea how the factory protects the tuning when they apply the ""pre-glue" ????

 
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DHS rubbers come with the same, especially those ones factory tuned (Provincial, National Version). But what is protected by the plastic foil on the sponge side sometimes is the pre-glue also already added on the rubber. If so, you should fix them on your racket only by adding (water) glue on the blade, not on the rubber, otherwise you might destroy the tuning.

I know so many people that add booster and glue over the neo sponge.

 
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Do Big Dipper and Jupiter 2 also come with the sponge-side plastic and pre-glue?

I have a sample jupiter 2, still haven't opened it
Big Dipper, I can't remember.
haven't glued a Big Dipper in a long time.
I think it has

PS I was the first person in this forum / western side of the world to use Big Dipper. I got it samples in before the launch and I think my reviews kindof made it famous (western stores started to stock it after forum hype)

 
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I know so many people that add booster and glue over the neo sponge.

Methods of usage Booster and water Glue:

1. New Rubber

Step 1
When buying factory tuned rubbers, please REMOVE/PEEL off the original tuning layer from back of the sponge (the factory tuning Booster and Glue might not collaborate with the Booster and Glue you bought yourself).

Step 2
Apply water Glue, 4 layers, each layer should dry completely by air (Glue turns from white to transparent) before the next layer. You can use a hair dryer to speed up.
(If your Glue is a thicker version, then you might use less layers e.g. 2 layers)

Step 3
Apply Booster oil evenly on the back onto the sponge, (don't need to be very thick)
Wait until the oil completely suck into the sponge until no liquid or shiny layer is left.
Repeat 4 times for traditional Chinese rubbers.
For German or Japanese rubbers, repeat 2 times

Step 4
Keep in dry and clean conditions for 6 DAYS.

Step 5
After 6 days, apply one layer of water Glue only on blade.
Then you can put the rubber and blade together.



2. Re-Tuning

If your rubber has NOT been tuned with Booster oil please follow the new rubber tuning method first.

Booster oil can last for almost 1 month for each tuning. It needs re-tuning if you feel the effect has diminished.

Step 1

After peeling rubber from blade, apply 1 layer of Booster oil directly onto the sponge. You don't need to remove the old glue layer.

Step 2
Let dry it for 1 night or 10 hours.

Step 3
Apply water Glue on blade, then you can put the rubber and the blade together.



Important Reminder

You must let the oil layer dry completely before stick to blade.

In my opinion a lot of people do not a full booster as they don't wait that week the booster needs to develop it's full power

 
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Methods of usage Booster and water Glue:

1. New Rubber

Step 1
When buying factory tuned rubbers, please REMOVE/PEEL off the original tuning layer from back of the sponge (the factory tuning Booster and Glue might not collaborate with the Booster and Glue you bought yourself).

Step 2
Apply water Glue, 4 layers, each layer should dry completely by air (Glue turns from white to transparent) before the next layer. You can use a hair dryer to speed up.
(If your Glue is a thicker version, then you might use less layers e.g. 2 layers)

Step 3
Apply Booster oil evenly on the back onto the sponge, (don't need to be very thick)
Wait until the oil completely suck into the sponge until no liquid or shiny layer is left.
Repeat 4 times for traditional Chinese rubbers.
For German or Japanese rubbers, repeat 2 times

Step 4
Keep in dry and clean conditions for 6 DAYS.

Step 5
After 6 days, apply one layer of water Glue only on blade.
Then you can put the rubber and blade together.



2. Re-Tuning

If your rubber has NOT been tuned with Booster oil please follow the new rubber tuning method first.

Booster oil can last for almost 1 month for each tuning. It needs re-tuning if you feel the effect has diminished.

Step 1

After peeling rubber from blade, apply 1 layer of Booster oil directly onto the sponge. You don't need to remove the old glue layer.

Step 2
Let dry it for 1 night or 10 hours.

Step 3
Apply water Glue on blade, then you can put the rubber and the blade together.



Important Reminder

You must let the oil layer dry completely before stick to blade.

In my opinion a lot of people do not a full booster as they don't wait that week the booster needs to develop it's full power

I've been boosting for a long time.

I think you forgot to mention that different boosters are different, ie in waiting time etc.
No one in my circle wait 6 days.

And yes, Neo rubbers, it is better to remove booster, but SO many don't remove it and still use it.
They change the FH rubber every 2 to 4 weeks.

I do not know of any one who will add 4 layers of water glue too.
what booster do you use, that you need to put 4 layers?

 
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