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  1. Oscarting is offline
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    #1

    Chinese style FH loop technique

    I'm using tacky Chinese rubbers but can't quite grasp the concept of the 'chinese style loop' is there a special way to do it? I've heard about dropping your shoulders and using your hip but to understand I need more in-depth detail

  2. Lycanthrope is offline
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    #2
    I don't really see the true differences on Chinese style and European style. Because of the physical differences between tacky rubbers and ESN rubbers, you really need to adjust your strokes, but this adjustment exists in all different equipment.

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    #3
    There is a difference, but not due to rubbers. The Chinese tend to have bigger and longer movement than the Europeans. This requires more physical effort. The best way to grasp this is by looking at some Chinese top players from today and some European top players from a few Years back.
    Tacky rubber don't require any extra physique. Tackiness only matter on soft strokes and on serves. On hard strokes the difference is minute.


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  4. Gozo is offline
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    #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Oscarting
    I'm using tacky Chinese rubbers but can't quite grasp the concept of the 'chinese style loop' is there a special way to do it? I've heard about dropping your shoulders and using your hip but to understand I need more in-depth detail

    In the top video Alexis LeBraun vs Dima and at the bottom video is Qiu Dang vs Dima.

    See the whipping motion of Qiu Dang? That is Chinese FH in all its glory. Contrast that with Alexis FH which is I would say showcase the very best of Euro FH topspin. More loopy and with more circular arc.
    Last edited by Gozo; 07-29-2022 at 06:57 AM.

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    #5
    Right now I have H2 on the FH side of my two Firewall Plus paddles. I have Giant Dragon Talon 0X on the BH side for push blocking.
    My H2 is not tacky and has no spring effect. So I must work to generate top spin. Yet I can do it.
    There is no force or impulse that can be generated by dignics or tenergy that I can't generate with a relatively dead H2..
    When playing in push blocker mode I don't need a fast rubber since I am always within a meter or a meter and a half from the table.
    It is true I might need to put more effort into the stroke but not that much since I am playing close to the table. However, I don't need to worry about the opponent loop killing balls and having then bounce off my paddle uncontrollably. I tend to counter hit loops.

    .



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    #6
    Here is a detail I haven't seen answered regarding the chinese loop against low-spin - how much should the racket close? I know it depends on 'feeling' but whats an approximate range - from 80 degrees to 60 degrees? 80 to 70? Very grateful for anyones input here.

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    #7
    Saw this video - can't understand a word it is saying. Chinese FH does require the full stroke - from feet, to waist, to shoulder to arm. European FH which in my books focus more on the actually contact of the ball, and mostly with a much smaller stroke. We love to say how the "Euro pros", has such good "hand" feeling, by being able to generate so much spin and control with hardly any movement. Together with the Chinese rubbers and Euro/Jap rubbers, the arc differences is also very noticeable.
    Last edited by Tony's Table Tennis; 07-29-2022 at 09:24 AM.
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    #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Oscarting
    I'm using tacky Chinese rubbers but can't quite grasp the concept of the 'chinese style loop' is there a special way to do it? I've heard about dropping your shoulders and using your hip but to understand I need more in-depth detail

    Others have provided excellent details. In Chinese terms, the transfer of force goes - thigh --> hip --> arm. It means you must push with your thigh, followed by turning your hip, followed by swinging your forearm.


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    #9
    Quote Originally Posted by SFF_lib

    Others have provided excellent details. In Chinese terms, the transfer of force goes - thigh --> hip --> arm. It means you must push with your thigh, followed by turning your hip, followed by swinging your forearm.

    Hi SFF_lib, I would agree with you in principle, but state that there is even MORE to it (start toes/feet and finish with wrist, fingers... but those are minor details in the overall (correct) argument you are making.

    BTW, are you gunna be at the TT America 13-14 Aug 2022 China TT diplomacy Tourney or the Oct 2022 888TTC 2 player Teams???

    One of these damn days I will need to meet you live in person, it is what these forums enable..

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    #10
    I saw a video explaining the motion that you should try to do, without going into too much details how every muscle should be cooperating with each other. Just stand with your knees slightly bend, body pointing straight forward, then make your left knee go towards your right knee while keeping the right knee stable, after that do the same with your right knee while moving your left knee to where it started.

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    #11
    For me, the possible angle when brush looping the ball depends on the grip and tackiness of the rubber. When you get the chirping sound hitting the ball, open up just slightly more.

    Why players with Chinese rubbers using the feet-knees-hip-rotation and hitting the ball with a more straight arm (I think) is because to engage a harder sponge and often a harder top sheet demands a higher amount of power in the strokes. This works fine with say harder H3N and similar rubbers. Trying this technique with a rubber like H8-80 or H3-50 would certainly give a similar result as with a Stiga DNA Soft or Andro Rasanter 42. They are just too mushy and the ball sinks to deep into the rubber/sponge. Try it with a harder Euro/Jap rubber and you'll get a better result, but nothing near the one you get with a H3 41deg, where you have a really grippy/tacky rubber to use for brushing the ball properly.

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    #12
    For me, the possible angle when brush looping the ball depends on the grip and tackiness of the rubber. When you get the chirping sound hitting the ball, open up just slightly more.

    Why players with Chinese rubbers using the feet-knees-hip-rotation and hitting the ball with a more straight arm (I think) is because to engage a harder sponge and often a harder top sheet demands a higher amount of power in the strokes. This works fine with say harder H3N and similar rubbers. Trying this technique with a rubber like H8-80 or H3-50 would certainly give a similar result as with a Stiga DNA Soft or Andro Rasanter 42. They are just too mushy and the ball sinks to deep into the rubber/sponge. Try it with a harder Euro/Jap rubber and you'll get a better result, but nothing near the one you get with a H3 41deg, where you also have a really grippy/tacky rubber to use for brushing the ball properly.

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