Blade For Medium Pips

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Hi,

I've been playing for a while with Long Pips,.. A couple of months back, a fellow club-m8, gave me a used sheet of Dr. Neubauer K.O 1.5mm .. It's been lying with me for a while, and now, I'm thinking of trying it out ..

I've played a bit with MPs, here-n-there, borrowing MP setups from other players.. I've tried Pluto 1.5 on a Yasaka Ma Lin Carbon, and also Yinhe Pluto with Donic Ultra Senso .. I remember finding both quite fast (on the MP side), and not easy to control..

I'm looking for suggestions on what (type of) blade to glue it on.. Initially, I'd like something with good control, on all type of strokes (pushing, blocking, and even opening against backspin) .. With blocking, I will start-off with passive blocking, and then when I am used to MPs, I will move on to more active blocking..

The blade has to be light-weight, since I have just recovered from a wrist injury..
 
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As most of the time, you would want a less bouncy blade, try blades with hard outer plies (Koto, Walnut, Teak, Beech, Mansonia, White Oak, Padauk, Rosewood, Ebony) - but with softer second plies (I think, Ayous as a second layer works better, than e.g. Spruce for this)
The key is that it should be an all-wood blade without reinforcement until you are familiar with playing with pips-out rubbers so that you know precisely what blade you want to use.

I would take a look at Sauer&Tröger Unicorn, for example.
 
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Thanks for the suggestion .. even before starting this thread, I had a look at Unicorn, but it seems out of the weight tolerance limit... The average weight, is around 86gms... I'm looking for a sub 80gms blade..

You can still email a retailer, if he/she has a lighter piece. Table tennis blades are not uniform, they have natural variance in its wooden properties, sometimes you can even ask for 5-15% lower or higher weight, than the average piece. I'd not be surprised, if you could ask for a piece near 80g.
 
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For this range of weight you can try balsa blade. Some love the feeling and some don’t, as the TSP balsa serie or the Spinlord Ultra Balsa. A little heavier there is the Nittaku Violin. That are the blades I have tested
Funk Fu Master asked for a light blade, with the ability of looping - if looping wouldn't have been mentioned, I'd also mention balsa blades, but I think, blades with mostly Balsa within their cross-section will not work. It should be at least two thin/normal thickness of other wood plies outside the balsa core to have some "feeling" and the ability to loop, but too thick Balsa core can even ultimately ruin that - I don't like, how low arcs can be hit with Tibhar Balsa Allround 50 for example - I'd rather pick Tibhar IV-L Balsa, if I would want something really light - but I'd guess, it will be still inferior compared to 5/7 ply all-woods without Balsa.

 
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As most of the time, you would want a less bouncy blade, try blades with hard outer plies (Koto, Walnut, Teak, Beech, Mansonia, White Oak, Padauk, Rosewood, Ebony) - but with softer second plies (I think, Ayous as a second layer works better, than e.g. Spruce for this)
The key is that it should be an all-wood blade without reinforcement until you are familiar with playing with pips-out rubbers so that you know precisely what blade you want to use.

I would take a look at Sauer&Tröger Unicorn, for example.

Yep .. To start of with, I'd prefer an all-wood blade, that's not so bouncy .. I have a Stiga Allround, Friendship C-5 lying around... Would either of these work ?

 
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Funk Fu Master asked for a light blade, with the ability of looping - if looping wouldn't have been mentioned, I'd also mention balsa blades, but I think, blades with mostly Balsa within their cross-section will not work. It should be at least two thin/normal thickness of other wood plies outside the balsa core to have some "feeling" and the ability to loop, but too thick Balsa core can even ultimately ruin that - I don't like, how low arcs can be hit with Tibhar Balsa Allround 50 for example - I'd rather pick Tibhar IV-L Balsa, if I would want something really light - but I'd guess, it will be still inferior compared to 5/7 ply all-woods without Balsa.

TSP balsa and Spinlord ultra Balsa so have a balsa core. Outer ply for TSP I don’t know and for the Spinlord is outer ply

 
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Those 2 blades are not so bouncy, the composite ply helps for it. The Spinlord one is very fast, for the TSP ones the number besides is the width of the balsa core. The TSP 6.5 is pretty fast, it is best to begin with the 4.5 or the 5.5 depending of your level of course.

Thanks .. Will have a look @ the TSP/Victas Balsa series..

 
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Thanks .. Will have a look @ the TSP/Victas Balsa series..

So, it seems like the TSP/VIctas Balsa series would work.. However, it's turns-out, that currecntly where I am, availability of TSP/Victas products is a major issue.. I don't want to get it from an online source like TT11, cause of the heavy import duties I'd end-up paying..

 
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