Nittaku FastArc G-1 Max. on both sides

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I'm using Fastarc G-1, 2.0 mm (FH) and Razka 7 Soft (BH) on Sweden Extra.

As my technique gets better, I feel that the BH ball now travels too slowly.

Apart of that, I also need the ball to go slightly faster on my FH but not too fast as my technique is not perfect yet and cardio is not that great.

I would like some opinions on whether I should upgrade both rubbers to Fastarc G-1 Max. thickness.

The idea is to have a faster FH than now and to develop a fast and heavy BH.

I also hope that by constantly switching both rubbers back and forth, they will wear and tear evenly so that I can upgrade both of them if required in the future.

Thank you!
 
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Rakza 7 soft is a bit slow, because it is very soft. You can't really hit hard. G1 Max certainly makes sense on both sides.

Evolution MXP is also very popular as a fast and powerful rubber.

 
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Rakza 7 soft is a bit slow, because it is very soft. You can't really hit hard. G1 Max certainly makes sense on both sides.

Evolution MXP is also very popular as a fast and powerful rubber.

Thanks, mate. Are you using Evolution MXP? How doest it perform in term of durability?

 
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IMO getting thicker sponge doesn't necessarily increase speed, it really just allows you better results when hitting harder. Have you by chance considered trying out a slightly faster blade?
 
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IMO getting thicker sponge doesn't necessarily increase speed, it really just allows you better results when hitting harder. Have you by chance considered trying out a slightly faster blade?

Good point, thanks.

Yes, I was considering trying Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon or Carbon. But after testing my friend's carbon blade (Donic), I found that although it was fast, it was also too stiff. I have a difficulty nailing the target I want. My palm felt that it vibrated, but my brain couldn't process what it was. Compared to my current blade, it doesn't vibrate, but I can feel the weight of the ball in my palm every time I hit it. And that feeling helped me improve my techniques. I thought, by changing the rubbers' thickness to Max. and medium-hard, will speed up the ball travels.

 
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G-1 max is definitely a good idea for your FH upgrade if you like the g-1 2.0 thickness.

As for BH, i think you should play test g-1 2.0 thickness more on the BH so you can get a better idea if you like/ adapt to the general feel/feedback you get when using G-1 on BH.

I have been using G-1 2.0 thickness on my BH for 2+ years and i can say G-1 does produce high quality shots that are not easy for the receiving end. (Provided you commit into the stroke). My only complain is that it is more demanding to execute banana flicks with G-1. Reason being, you need to have good BH acceleration so that you can activate the sponge since G-1's topsheet is relatively hard. On top of that, the range of motion for banana flicks are smaller compared to backhand topspin/loops so it really emphasizes good technique.

If you have a good banana flick in your game, you may need to give yourself some time to adapt. If you are new to banana flicks and want to practise it, G-1 will make it more challenging for you to learn but in turn, teach you how to accelerate into the ball efficiently.
 
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If you already like a slower 5 ply wood, I don't think carbon is the right step up unless you are playing at a much higher level. Lower end offensive class blades like Nittaku Latika, Xiom Offensive S, Yasaka Extra Offensive, Stiga Infinity are built to maintain that natural, communicative 5 ply wood feeling while being faster and more supportive compared to fast allround class blades like Extra.
 
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G-1 max is definitely a good idea for your FH upgrade if you like the g-1 2.0 thickness.

As for BH, i think you should play test g-1 2.0 thickness more on the BH so you can get a better idea if you like/ adapt to the general feel/feedback you get when using G-1 on BH.

I have been using G-1 2.0 thickness on my BH for 2+ years and i can say G-1 does produce high quality shots that are not easy for the receiving end. (Provided you commit into the stroke). My only complain is that it is more demanding to execute banana flicks with G-1. Reason being, you need to have good BH acceleration so that you can activate the sponge since G-1's topsheet is relatively hard. On top of that, the range of motion for banana flicks are smaller compared to backhand topspin/loops so it really emphasizes good technique.

If you have a good banana flick in your game, you may need to give yourself some time to adapt. If you are new to banana flicks and want to practise it, G-1 will make it more challenging for you to learn but in turn, teach you how to accelerate into the ball efficiently.

With my current BH rubber, Rakza 7 Soft, banana flick is easy. It's worrying me when you say that it's harder to do the flick with G-1. I tried my BH with G-1 2.0 mm in training, and it was neutral to me and the ball travelled more quickly. I have not tried flicking with G-1, I had not thought of that. Thank you for telling me about it.

 
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Yasaka Ma Lin Soft Carbon is basically a Yasaka Sweden Extra with thin carbon around the core (not underneath the top ply). It is only slightly faster and feels like an all-wood blade. It is different compared to ordinary carbon blades. But if you are an all-wood guy like me, even a slight thin carbon will feel different.

But to be honest, lots of amateur players are better off with a Sweden Extra (or any other 5-ply all-wood blades). Unless you want to be a competitive player and playing in a much higher league (as already mentioned above).
 
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If your ball is traveling too slow it’s an excellent opportunity to hit it harder try this instead of changing rubber. Don’t upgrade rubber until you feel very comfortable with your current one.

Cheers
L-zr
 
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