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I would have preferred to check the goods before buying but unfortunately that is not possible and I made my choice by going along with some reviews.
Isn't Super FX a chinese rubber?Actually when I choose degree of sponge I choose 40 because I wanted the feel to be a bit like Super FX(found it a bit hard but just right), but as degree are just numbers online I made a wrong decision.
thanks
Using your premade racket blade is a very viable option I sayunfortunately I cannot change blade due to financial reasons
Have you tried removing the old rubbers from your premade rackets? You might need some acetone.
Well 729 Super FX is designed to play like japanese/euro rubber..
To make good spin out of it you need to engage the sponge, while getting good spin from your tacky rubber also involves the topsheet now, esp. in service..
Might be the reason you are lacking spin on service albeit using a rubber with higher spin potential
Using your premade racket blade is a very viable option I say
Sponge hardness is a topic that is often misunderstood. Various amounts of spin & speed are produced on the ball depending on several factors...
These factors are
1)Dwell time (mostly related to spin but in soft rubbers it creates speed also)
2)Power of the stroke (related to spin & spin also, the harder the hit the faster the ball, the harder the brush the spinnier the ball)
3)Tehcnique timing & angle of the stroke that also produce different amounts speed & spin
Some physics to understand better
There are two forces on the ball a) the tangential one that creates spin b)and the lateral one that creates speed
Notice that by the term speed we mean horizontal speed not vertical! The actual result of these two forces is that the ball is travelling spinny and speedy creating an arc.
Lets assume that a table tennis sponge is like a spring . Hard springs when compared to softer ones when fully compressed produce more force thus more acceleration (F= K X A , Newton's law) thus more speed, to the object that compresses them. K is the modulus of elasticity of the spring=sponge, F the Force , A fore acceleration
Conclusion no1 : When the sponge is hard you need strong hitters to manage to compress the sponge at its full in order to take full advantage of its abilities ! To achieve that you need a hard hitter with perfect timing and angle of the racket. Like any chinese professional player for example...doesnt have to be top10. That doesnt mean that if you are in good physical condition with fast footwork and good body & wrist rotation (but not a pro player) you cant play effectively with a chinese rubber
.
Conclusion no2 : With softer sponges (the sponge has more "porosity") you need less power and have big margin for error in your angle of your strokes to achieve a desired arc (speed&spin). Because of the softness, the ball compresses easily the sponge at its full potential giving you & me and the whooole TTdaily forum amateur players an easy task!
Conclusion no3 : Knowing the importance of timing, paddle angle and sponge hardness, underspins lifted with hard rubbers need perfect technique and timing compared to the soft ones. A heavy underspin if lifted with a small error in technique using a soft rubber, maybe will not be lifted (or lifted with less pace & arc) with a hard rubber. BUT when you learn your technique correctly and learn to lift every underspin ball with ease, using hard rubbers will give you more effective shots
So...If you have good technique footwork and physique you can play with a hard tacky rubber like the hurricane (boosted of course...chinese rubbers were invented to be boosted) . If you are a beginner who still is improving his shots prefer a soft rubber.
p.s. Notice that conclusion1&2&3 are considering the exact same stroke with the exact same incoming ball to your paddle.
lol would this $5 blade be better than t11?
The point is, what is the best blade for a given individual player? I play 4 hours a week and I would prefer playing a 729 basic blade with new rubber, to a T-11+.
Playing effectively with a T-11+ kind of blade (OFF+ carbon-balsa blade) requires a lot of practice time. Not counting time spent playing matches.
You say you play 1-2 hours? sessions? every 2 weeks. In this case, as Yosua says, your 5$ premade blade might be better for players like you and me. The 729 premade blades are actually pretty good quality blades in the 5-ply all-wood allround class.
With time I'm sure you can get used to the T-11+ if you really want to, but you have to accept that your shots will not be as spinny as with your old setup.
How do I get more brushing if there is less contact time?
What do you mean boosted?How do I do that?Actually I have been playing for around 5 years with pre-made rackets and thought that it was time to give custom made ones a try. I mostly read some reviews online to choose my blade and rubbers and bought it off ebay as the prices literally robbery.
unfortunately I cannot change blade due to financial reasons,I will just have to do with it. What I want is to adapt to what I have.
Reviews tabletennisdb were only praising the t11 saying that it's good for attacking etc...that's why I went along with it.
and I'm not very muscular that's why I choose something light as reviews said that rubbers themselves were already a bit heavy.
Anyway I play only during my free time from university and I don't want to spent more money on something that I do only 1-2 every 2 week, my budget is at its limit.
btw why is it good for is attacking miles away from the table?I played with it and can attack perfectly fine near the table.
by having a thinner contact, I dont remember who said it in a video once, i think it was about michael maze serving, but it applies here, "Its like slicing the skin off an apple with a blade." not taking a chunk out of the apple hope thats a good visualization
"boosting" was something that used to be done to rubber just before a match using what was called "speed glue" it would enhance the properties of the rubber. making them better, So rubbers like shriver were fantastic when boosted, which is why it was so popular. and the also the Chinese rubbers were designed knowing that they would be boosted afterward. the 2008 olympics were the last time speed glue was legally used, it was banned from any tournament.
so now rubbers like shriver are only good, instead of great.
completely understandable. rubbers and everything are going through the roof in price. But i wouldnt worry about heavy rubber. I im 5' 7" and weigh like 110. and im using what is considered a quite heavy rubber, once u adjust its fine, just depending on how hard you play, watch out for carpel tunnel in the wrist, or tennis elbow. you can get both of these with light rubber as well, just be more aware of it.
google translate exists for that reason : How without Double Happiness backplane? Hurricane King 3 hurricane Dragon 2 also line ah Galaxy backplane is relatively poor in China! Hurricane 40 hard, multi adapt
thanks for advice i'll try it
Is it possible to boost the top sheet?like making it more tacky?
google translate exists for that reason : How without Double Happiness backplane? Hurricane King 3 hurricane Dragon 2 also line ah Galaxy backplane is relatively poor in China! Hurricane 40 hard, multi adapt
I can barely understand that translation.
make it more tacky? not sure. i had a butterfly pre-assembled that was very tacky, and when it lost alot of its tackiness,
i brushed oil (olive, vegetable, whatever) on the rubber, and let it soak in, and repeat a couple times, that will restore alot of the tackiniess, but im not sure about making it MORE tacky. as far as i know the oil is still illegal for tournament. but other people, or clubs nobody is really going to care. especially if they are better than you anyway p
oil on the rubber?doesn't that make it greasy?
A thin contact (not less contact time...) means that you brush the ball more and hit less.
Buy this one http://www.megaspin.net/store/default.asp?pid=lkt-instinct . Its very good and cheap blade for beginners. Dont play the hurricane without booster it is not worth it! Other buy a booster (dian chi haifu seamoon booster stiga booster etc) or buy a cheap non tacky european/japanese technology rubber.
I believe either you notice something wrong with your hurricane or your hurricane is bad product. It is definetely one of the most tackiest rubbers out there and for sure more tacky than the friendship you had on your premade paddle.
Hope I helped, if I was you I would sell my T11 (too fast for a beginner) and buy an allwood ALL+ OFF- blade