What bat should I get?

What bat should I get?


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Hi,

I am getting a new bat. I have been researching for ages and I have come up with 4 different bats. Please vote for the one that you think is the best. This will be a massive help to me as I am very good at changing my mind but I know that as soon as I choose, then I will be happy with my decision.

Thanks,
TableTennisNerd
 
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And because of this, I really do not like my bat at the moment.

Hi there,

I am not exactly sure I can help so much, I have some personal experience with all the rubbers except the Airoc (which is relatively new out of the 4 rubbers I think). I like the Tibhar Mx-P, but I tried it on a wooden blade rated maybe off- to off on a Butterfly speed scale. I am not sure how really to compare 4 different blades and 4 different rubber setups, are you sure you can handle such a big change in one go?

What is roughly your level like? I am maybe 2100-2200 USATT level and I am two winged attacker able to play roughly this level with both penhold and shakehand. Not sure if I could handle your relatively fast setups though, particularly the Joola Wing Extreme which from my impression is the fastest. I have played with your current blade Stiga All Around, yeah I find this a bit too slow, sure you don't want to consider another stiga blade somewhere in between your current and proposed setups first or even just try changing rubbers first?

By the way, have you tried other people's setups around you? I find that really helps, it's like a free trial :) If you have a short video of you playing it can also help show your abilities and what you might be after.

Sorry, if it's not much help, good luck no matter what your final choice is.
 
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Hi,

Never actually tested the blades on your poll except a few hits with a "plain" Optimum Seven and Andro CSV(no rubbers attached) which I both found to be decently soft(for spin generation) and fast, but a bit on the heavy side nowadays for Optimum Seven(CSV 85+g Optimum 90+). I personally like the CSV more as it is lighter and has huge sweet spot on the blade.

As for rubbers I used Joola Rhyzm on backhand for 2 years and had few hits with other 3 rubbers on friends' bats recently.

Me and my friends(who're more skilled than me at attacking strokes) strongly believe that Airoc M have poor spin frankly compare to other 3. Fast, low ball arc and good control which for us aren't good enough to compensate the lack of spin.

Rasant Powergrip for me has best spin of the 4 at attacking but I had trouble generating as much spin in chops and pushes (short games)as some spinny older generation rubbers(powergrip is designed for the new plastic ball), might be the problem of my strokes. VERY fast and has lowest ball arc when attacking but still easy to loop chop spin and has great overall control.

If u want actual performance proof of these 2 rubbers you can watch TableTennisDaily's video review of them on Youtube.

Evolution also have low ball arc. A bit slower and slightly less spin in attacking for me(still great) but bit more spin in short games, also great control but I found it super heavy, in fact so heavy that it was affecting my swinging speed (which I also observed the same thing from 2 pro players using MX-P: Macros Freitas and Samsonov. Might be coincidence though). Such weight might have adverse effect on consistency.

Joola Rhyzm has very hard rubber topsheet and is lightest. Medium arc. Excellent spin+control in short games even when comparing to some of the most famous rubbers like DHS Hurricane 3. Still good speed, great control+ quite good spin on attacks though not as good as Evolution and Rasant. Might be because of the hard topsheet combining with my cheapish+hardish Cornilleau blade which decreased ball dwelling time on rubber surface.

Not sure about your ideas of sticking to same brand for rubbers and blades. Almost no semi-professional players in my country does that and their bats are still giving great results. We also tend to use different rubbers on each side for shakehand style due to the larger limitations for backhand strokes.
 
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Hi,

Never actually tested the blades on your poll except a few hits with a "plain" Optimum Seven and Andro CSV(no rubbers attached) which I both found to be decently soft(for spin generation) and fast, but a bit on the heavy side nowadays for Optimum Seven(CSV 85+g Optimum 90+). I personally like the CSV more as it is lighter and has huge sweet spot on the blade.

As for rubbers I used Joola Rhyzm on backhand for 2 years and had few hits with other 3 rubbers on friends' bats recently.

Me and my friends(who're more skilled than me at attacking strokes) strongly believe that Airoc M have poor spin frankly compare to other 3. Fast, low ball arc and good control which for us aren't good enough to compensate the lack of spin.

Rasant Powergrip for me has best spin of the 4 at attacking but I had trouble generating as much spin in chops and pushes (short games)as some spinny older generation rubbers(powergrip is designed for the new plastic ball), might be the problem of my strokes. VERY fast and has lowest ball arc when attacking but still easy to loop chop spin and has great overall control.

If u want actual performance proof of these 2 rubbers you can watch TableTennisDaily's video review of them on Youtube.

Evolution also have low ball arc. A bit slower and slightly less spin in attacking for me(still great) but bit more spin in short games, also great control but I found it super heavy, in fact so heavy that it was affecting my swinging speed (which I also observed the same thing from 2 pro players using MX-P: Macros Freitas and Samsonov. Might be coincidence though). Such weight might have adverse effect on consistency.

Joola Rhyzm has very hard rubber topsheet and is lightest. Medium arc. Excellent spin+control in short games even when comparing to some of the most famous rubbers like DHS Hurricane 3. Still good speed, great control+ quite good spin on attacks though not as good as Evolution and Rasant. Might be because of the hard topsheet combining with my cheapish+hardish Cornilleau blade which decreased ball dwelling time on rubber surface.

Not sure about your ideas of sticking to same brand for rubbers and blades. Almost no semi-professional players in my country does that and their bats are still giving great results. We also tend to use different rubbers on each side for shakehand style due to the larger limitations for backhand strokes.

Thanks, that is very helpful
 
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I disagree; that's like 200 quid. How is that meant to cure the stress?! Money doesn't grow on trees you know ;)

the blade is something you buy once in a lifetime.
alc blades are not so expensive, they are well worth your effort and money.

if you want to look away from tenergies you can go with donic bluefire m1 both sides. decent rubber.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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First off the blade you have is better than any of the ones you are looking at. Second, what makes you think you want a Carbon blade that is Off+? The Stiga Allround Classic is pretty slow. But the Stiga Allround Evolution is actually a blade that has an Off- speed. That is a good blade because the feeling of the wood is good, the dwell time is good for spinning, the control is good. If your technique is good that blade has more than enough speed and you will learn to supply the power on your own with that blade. Do yourself a favor and just get better rubbers. Unless you are higher level than Approx 2100-2200 (USATT rating), that blade is better for you than most blades on the market.

How long have you been playing and what would you say your level is? You say you play an all out attacking game. Do you smash primarily or do you loop mostly?

Second, the blades sebas-aguirre recommended are all much higher quality than what you are thinking of. If you really have your heart set on a fast blade, you might as well get one that has good touch, feel and dwell time like the various Butterfly ALC blades. Or you could go with a little more feeling and get one of the Butterfly ZLF blades.

I guess if your goal is to hit have fun and blast rockets which don't always go where you want them to but not win much and not get better, get one of the blades your thinking about. If you really want to improve your technique and get your level higher, stick with the blade you have and upgrade to top of the line rubbers.

What ever you decide to do, good luck.
 
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I sometimes use the blade in OP's signature and I can verify with my preferred FH rubber of FX-P, I can make the ball fly like Who-Flung-The Chuck.

Now Carl, he wouldn't know what a Stiga Allround Evolution was if it hit him upside the head, he is too busy making love to his BTY ZLF to give hiz Allround Evolution counterlooping machine any proper attention.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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I sometimes use the blade in OP's signature and I can verify with my preferred FH rubber of FX-P, I can make the ball fly like Who-Flung-The Chuck.

Now Carl, he wouldn't know what a Stiga Allround Evolution was if it hit him upside the head, he is too busy making love to his BTY ZLF to give hiz Allround Evolution counterlooping machine any proper attention.

Still use the Allround Evolution. I am actually going to hang the ZLF up for a while as much as I like it. I am about to start using an OSP Virtuoso Off-. I just couldn't resist getting myself a new toy.
 
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Get yourself a bty petr korbel and slap it with 2 t05 then hit the court hehe

Seriously take Carls advice regarding ball feel speed dwell... in the end its still you who would decide depend on the "level of feel good" on your part. We can give you tons of diffrent setup.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Get yourself a bty petr korbel and slap it with 2 t05 then hit the court hehe

Seriously take Carls advice regarding ball feel speed dwell... in the end its still you who would decide depend on the "level of feel good" on your part. We can give you tons of diffrent setup.

Sent from my SM-G900F using Tapatalk

Yep, Butterfly Petr Korbel would be good. I was thinking of suggesting also Stiga Offensive Classic and Avalox P-500. Kong Linghui won his world championship with the P-500. He is an offensive monster.

If you wanted faster, those three blades are top notch.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Not sure about your ideas of sticking to same brand for rubbers and blades. Almost no semi-professional players in my country does that and their bats are still giving great results. We also tend to use different rubbers on each side for shakehand style due to the larger limitations for backhand strokes.

This here is an important piece of information. It makes no sense that the rubbers you are choosing for each blade are the same brand as the blade as though you must use Stiga rubbers with a Stiga blade or Tibhar rubbers with a Tibhar blade. You don't have to do that. Figure out the rubbers you want. They can be put on any blade. Figure out the blade you want. They will go well with the rubbers you are choosing.

But choose a blade that is Off- or Off speed rating not Off+ and if the blade is all wood you will develop better strokes because the feedback that an all wood blade provides. I have been looking for a quote from another forum that explains really well why the feedback from an all wood blade actually helps your nervous system, over time, adjust and correct your strokes so that your game improves and why a carbon blade DOES NOT DO THIS.

It has to do with the feedback the blade gives and you feeling when the contact is good and when the contact is not good and how, on a subcortical level, your body begins to adjust so your touch and contact on strokes becomes better and better and that gets put into your muscle memory.

This is also why, at least until your strokes are really top quality, at least until you are about 2100-2200 (USATT rating) an all wood blade that is All+, Off- or on the low end of Off is best for developing and improving. Usually (not always but usually) by the time a player is 2100-2200 their strokes and touch are solid and good enough and the things that keep them from going higher are things other than mechanics.
 
says Spin and more spin.
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Here you go, this is a quote from a post in a different forum:

http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=18107


The function of feedback in blades.

Feedback in blades is referred to as “feel” or “touch” and sometimes more directly as “flexibility”. It is often suggested that flexible blades with a good feel or touch will make it easier to hit the ball just right, improving the quality of your strokes - and they do, but still the matter is not as simple as that.
“Feel”or “touch” is what the muscles and nerves in a hand holding the grip of a bat sense of the vibrations in the blade’s head caused by the impact of the ball when it is in contact with the rubber. These vibrations convey information about speed and spin of the ball – the incoming speed and spin as well as the speed and spin which are a result of making the stroke. Speed is felt as intensity of the vibrations. Spin is felt as quality of the vibrations – a ball will feel “heavy” if there is a lot of spin on it, and the way the vibrations change when contacting the rubber will make you feel e.g. whether or not you are putting good spin on the ball, or whether or not you have made the pips of your LP rubber bend.
Feedback actually is there when the vibrations in the blade’s head are transferred to the hand and processed by the brain. The time during which the ball is “on” the blade – or more precisely, is making contact with the rubber – is approximately a thousandth of a second. In contrast, the nerves and the brain need tenths of seconds to process the information felt by the hand and to respond to it. Time, therefore, is far too short to adjust flaws in handling the ball during the interval the ball is on the blade; if you don’t hit the ball just right, there is nothing you can do about it while you are actually hitting it. However, the information processed by the brain is retained; as such it can be used, first, to help interpret the effectiveness of the stroke (feeling adds information to what you see) and, second, to make adjustments the next time you hit the ball. So, “feel” and hence feedback are not functional immediately, but indirectly.
The good feedback can do a player is then, first, helping him to know how well he hit the ball. This is important tactically, for it helps to decide what to expect from the opponent and how to anticipate on his most likely reaction. Visual information is often not enough to decide this: it is difficult to see how much spin and speed there is on the ball. If, however, you can feel spin and speed, you will far better be able to judge the quality of your stroke and the degree of difficulty the opponent will have handling the ball as a result of it, and from that to decide what to expect and how to anticipate it.
Secondly, a player can benefit from feedback because it is extremely helpful in the learning process. Learning how to perform strokes well using only visual information (the trajectory of the ball, if and how it clears the net, where it lands, how it behaves when contacting the opponents bat) is difficult and comes slowly, because the information is not directly linked to what the muscles do. Feeling how you perform the stroke and handle the ball, by feeling the vibrations in the blade and interpreting them, will train the muscles directly. Muscle-memory is subconscious, you are not directly aware of it, but it is there determining your reflexes; that makes it very important in table-tennis. Feeling the vibrations will also add to your general knowledge of the behaviour of the ball as a result of your strokes; this knowledge is a part of the conscious learning-process.
As feedback is important, so is the ability of the blade to generate vibration and transfer it to the grip. The construction of blades may either maximize or minimize this ability. As for the head, vibration will be less and more complex with every ply added. Single-ply blades have optimal vibration – if the wood they are made of vibrates well. The best wood comes from needle-leaved trees; musical instruments are nearly always built from it. A Stradivarius violin is, as it were, a single-ply Hinoki blade. Multiple plies will dampen vibration and/or make it more complex (as every layer has its own vibrations), but this can be (partly) compensated by gluing techniques, choosing woods that combine well, making the plies thin, and so on. Generally, a blade that is flexible will vibrate well. To have good feedback, however, the vibrations have to be felt in the hand, so the vibrations must be transferred to the grip. Several blade-designs purposely prevent this by putting dampening layers between the grip and the wood of the head in some way. Most designs do not prevent it, but do not purposefully improve transference either. Only one design (as far as I know) aims at maximizing transference of vibrations from the head to the grip, and this is patented by Re-Impact. It does make these blades unique.
Transference of vibrations is also dampened by the rubbers on the blade; the thicker, the more. Therefore it makes very good sense to have especially younger players use thin sponge; this will speed up their development. Feedback is especially important too in defensive and all-round playing-styles, as manipulation of spin and speed is essential to them. Blockers also benefit from good feedback. These players will be best off using blades that vibrate well and transfer the vibration the grip. Hitters and quick attackers have less practical need of it.
 
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