Re-Building the BEAST

UpSideDownCarl · Sep 29, 2015

What kind of glue did you use and did you let it dry fully? If you used a proper wood glue, the glue should dry fully. Heat would not cause it to undry or change shape after it solidifies.

And as Der_Echte says, the trick is to fill the whole hollow space fully. And then to let it dry.

You had WRB so the only thing that needed to be clamped was the plastic label. I was wondering what you thought you were doing trying to clamp it with a laptop. Even rubber bands would have worked better. [emoji2].

In any case, as long as you used wood glue and not the type of glue for your rubbers, it will dry eventually. But you should be able to take the label off and let the glue dry more fully and then add more to fill the spaces that are still hollow. Once it is fully dry, you can glue the label back on.

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NextLevel · Sep 29, 2015

Guys, he wanted some handle rattling to have a beat to his love tapping... seriously, I have to try this mode on one of my rejects sometime.

Der_Echte · Sep 30, 2015

NL you would like it. Android did that with Kinetic series blades...

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UpSideDownCarl · Sep 30, 2015

Der_Echte said:
NL you would like it. Android did that with Kinetic series blades...

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I've heard the android phones have the beast mod, weighted handle feature too.

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aerial · Sep 30, 2015

haha actually it's cause i also put polyurethane on the surfaces and i was scared it would get knocked over if i just let it stand up...

the weird thing is i notice in the handle's insignia is... i can see all of the screws?!?!

does wood glue dry translucent...?

i used elmer's wood glue.

i also weighed it again without any rubber and it's down to 108g... does my bat have a hole somewhere where the glue is leaking too lol

also, i filled it to the very brim. when i put the wood glue in it took a good i wanna say 8 minutes for it to seep all the way through the screws into the hollowness of the handle, and when i put the insignia back in the glue over-flowed a bit and had to be wiped away... so i think it's safe to say it was indeed full when i filled it with glue

also.. nextlevel... stop hating on my love tapping...

[in all seriousness though, after looking at one of the matches i lost at the upstate tournament, i was really all too tentative and did indeed love-tap too much.. sigh..]

UpSideDownCarl · Sep 30, 2015

Okay, Here we go. If you took an amount of glue and poured it on a piece of paper and weighed it while the glue was still wet, it would weigh one thing. And if you let it dry completely and then weighed it again, the weight would change. The solvent in the Elmers Wood Glue, I believe is water. When the water evaporates, the glue weighs less. When the water evaporates, the wood glue will be a different size because, without the water, it will be a bit smaller.

And yes, the wood glue should dry somewhat yellow/translucent.

aerial · Sep 30, 2015

there is a yellow hue on one insignia but the other insignia it is completely translucent. just glued on some new sheets of M1T and MV HPS soft, looking forward to club tonight

UpSideDownCarl · May 27, 2016

Bump for old times sake.

gmiller2233 · May 30, 2016

Great thread! Thanks!

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Der_Echte · May 30, 2016

Bump to confuse the Goon Squads while they look at their smart phones in the middle of traversing the Brooklyn Bridge.

Gene Tuttle · May 30, 2016

Ok, I took the DER_Ehcte "the original" "the real"? Sorry no German since 1984
challenge and put some steel in my Nexy Calix-2 Handle. I left the handle intact and drilled into the center and added 35 grams and then put Epoxy in to hold it stable. The theory of weight in the handle was proposed among others by Jack Nicholas who used to put weight into his golf club handles and claimed it help balance the club and make the swing quicker during rotation relieved stress on his wrists and helped his hands turn over during the swing. It will also dampen vibration during impact and cure the Zika virus.

Der_Echte · May 30, 2016

Nothing will cure bullcrap made up by the government, duct tape cant fix stupid, but it can muffle the sound.

The Beast Mod I did to my Calix II I got from Nexy when I lived in Korea made that blade feel like the BEST blade I ever hit with.

I can see the allure of drilling, it is fun for us guys to do stuff like that.

I think you will like how easier it is to use wrist in both flicks and completing the "Whip" on loops.

Der_Echte · May 30, 2016

35 grams added is a LOT for that blade, but I think you will still like the result. I would target a more "reasonable" 20 or so.

and yes, der echte can mean the original or the genuine.

Gene Tuttle · May 30, 2016

Here is the new weapon

Der_Echte · May 31, 2016

I like your "New" grip. I did that before with Tibhar side tape on a different blade. Calix II was a great controllable blade before my mod, but after, it was like super good feedback feel, great balance, easier to whip and the top gear was better. I always felt Calix II's high gear on an 80% hit was a bit too slow for my liking, but this mod really hit teh sweet spot, confidence high.

Gekko · May 31, 2016

Der_Echte said:
I like your "New" grip. I did that before with Tibhar side tape on a different blade. Calix II was a great controllable blade before my mod, but after, it was like super good feedback feel, great balance, easier to whip and the top gear was better. I always felt Calix II's high gear on an 80% hit was a bit too slow for my liking, but this mod really hit teh sweet spot, confidence high.

Damn it, had to join to look at the lovely pics.

Anyway, I have also beast-modded a few beauties... the H.S.Cryzer (5-ply hinoki), and a Waldner Senso Carbon.

The Cryzer was a second hand blade I picked up and the handle had no chance vs my scalpel. My YEO on the other hand...RIP my good friend, that handle is so messed up that I'll have to get a blade maker to make a new handle.

I have a Nexy Higgs blade that I'm also trying to take off the handle, it is a VERY slow process this time, in fact progress has slowed to a stop.

Ranting over, the FEEL of the blades have improved incredibly, it takes a very brave EJ such as myself to admit that these have been the most beautiful things to hit with. Should my skills improve the Higgs and my old Violin will go through surgery...

Der_Echte · May 31, 2016

Get a $20 heat gun that you would use on floor tiles and cell phones to heat up the adhesive and rest easy. You go progressive with that thing and the handles come right off. Just take it slow and staged. Shouldn't take but 3-5 minutes to get a handle piece off clean.

This is the one I use.

http://www.amazon.com/Wagner-0503008-HT1000-200-watt-Heat/dp/B00004TUCV

Der_Echte · May 31, 2016

In the original thread and probable a dozen plus others, I did it without heat and I got varied results. It ALWAYS took a long time.

Now, with the right use of the heat gun, it takes 3 minutes.

Take off rubbers. Use 1200 watt setting and 5-8 cm away do it on top of handle piece, then wave it back and forth along side of piece, then other side. Repeat 3 times and try to slide in thin knife or artists putty knife. If it doesn't go under, do the heat gun routine again. If it slides under and only goes so far, do the routine again. Eventually, the knife will begin to slide under. Leave knife in and use a little more heat progressively. The knife will soon enough slide under and do the job.

http://www.amazon.com/Water-Palette-Painting-Spatula-Scraper/dp/B00O2N20TU/ref=sr_1_4?s=arts-crafts&ie=UTF8&qid=1464706613&sr=1-4&keywords=artists+putty+knife

gmiller2233 · May 31, 2016

I think I will give it a go on a back up blade and see how it feels.

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gmiller2233 · May 31, 2016

Do you ever just tape led on the bottom to get the feel?

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Re-Building the BEAST

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