Re-Building the BEAST

Der_Echte · Oct 7, 2020

2mm handle inserts will bump up the total circumferance 8mm !!

Hope you want and like that. I think 4mm would be a more reasonable step, but what the heck, this is fun, it is learning, and you can always swap those out for a different size.

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

Der_Echte said:
2mm handle inserts will bump up the total circumferance 8mm !!

Hope you want and like that. I think 4mm would be a more reasonable step, but what the heck, this is fun, it is learning, and you can always swap those out for a different size.

I measured the fextra and force pro and they were 22mm and 20mm in height, the Xiom Solo is only 18mm in height, therefore my thought were 2mm each side.

If it seems to fat I can always sand it a touch. I think I hold the bat looser when the handle is bigger.

Do you think MDF will be ok to use as the ply? Or should I use actual 'real' wood?

Nate4s · Oct 7, 2020

MOG said:
I measured the fextra and force pro and they were 22mm and 20mm in height, the Xiom Solo is only 18mm in height, therefore my thought were 2mm each side.

If it seems to fat I can always sand it a touch. I think I hold the bat looser when the handle is bigger.

Do you think MDF will be ok to use as the ply? Or should I use actual 'real' wood?

I would use real wood. MDF does not do well with moisture.

Der_Echte · Oct 7, 2020

The reason you increase 8mm in total circumference is you have elevated top left 2mm, the top right 2mm, the bottom left 2mm and the bottom right by 2mm...

The circumferance of the 2 handle pieces and the throat remains constant, so don't try to invoke a "mod" of the 2 Pi * r formula... won't hold water. You only increased each side L & R and can only invoke that formula for the small portion of that 2mm... which is very small and almost not a factor... might not add but .5mm (considering all 4 increases) depending on how you rounded it.

To make it easy to understand, you need to multiply by 4 to get a close rough idea of how much more you are increasing...

... but what the heck, you do not need to be precise when you are messing around.

It is only a value to know the impact of your mod before you do it to make a self-check to be sure it fits with your goals of the increase...

... but what the heck again... if your goal is simply to mess around and see what shyt you can stir up for yourself, then you are gunna meet and exceed your expectations.

Der_Echte · Oct 7, 2020

You can cause more shyt on the internet by trying to quantify your contribution of each of the 4 increases by figuring out the radius from edge to center of throat... using the circumferance formula, dividing by the angle actualy made per 360... blah blah blah...

... this gets hard to measure that acurately (the angle)

just accept that increasing with 2mm inserts on each side will increase total circumferance by something a little over 8mm and live with it.

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

Nate4s said:
I would use real wood. MDF does not do well with moisture.

I have decided to take the handles of a fextra (which I love) and glue them on instead. The MDF was going to add about 20g and that is nuts. Even Der-Ecte might find that too much!!

We will see how it feels.

Thanks for the input. The Solo is fantastic and right in my ball park, but the handles was annoying me too much and I do not like grip tape as it numbs the feedback from the blade and makes my hand sweat too much.

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

Well that is that!!

Feels great!

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

Now this is the blade to end all EJing!!

Nate4s · Oct 7, 2020

That was very quick. How did you get the handle swapped over and rubbers glued in that short amount of time? If you used wood-glue, make sure to give it the proper amount of time to dry (likely 24 hours).

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

I used PVA. Shall I stick it back in the clamps for 24 hours?

Nate4s · Oct 7, 2020

MOG said:
I used PVA. Shall I stick it back in the clamps for 24 hours?

Clamps are fine - you would generally want to leave it clamped for a few hours at least. I find rubber bands to do a great job of applying pressure while also keeping the handles centered with respect to the blade (while traditional clamps can allow the handles to drift if the glue is still wet).

MOG · Oct 7, 2020

Nate4s said:
Clamps are fine - you would generally want to leave it clamped for a few hours at least. I find rubber bands to do a great job of applying pressure while also keeping the handles centered with respect to the blade (while traditional clamps can allow the handles to drift if the glue is still wet).

Thanks for the tip! I have some gentle clamps (with rubber on ends) and I will use blocks to protect the handles!

UpSideDownCarl · Jan 22, 2024

Bumping this thread for material related to something that came up in another thread.

rbtitco · Jan 22, 2024

than

UpSideDownCarl said:
Bumping this thread for material related to something that came up

thanks for bumping this, new handles from ali express came today and am about to perform surgery on the old nittaku acoustic. Heat gun it will be, MOG has inspired me.

Ishmaelkhan · Jan 24, 2024

hi guys, I've been thinking for some time to make a similar modification to my fextra one blade.
I want to ask, how does one reliably remove the handle of the blade? I don't quite trust myself picking at it with a sharp knife...
also, what to fill it with? is wood filler more preferred or random stuff like bolts, nails, stapler pins etc would do fine?

Re-Building the BEAST

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