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    1. Top | #1
      xVill is offline
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      Talking Dian-Chi oil does not work.

      Hi guys, I was just wondering, what are your opinions on this stuff? I purchased some in the hope that it would soften up my Hurricane 3 (had already tried falco on a separate sheet, still like concrete....) I tried this method. 3 layers of glue, one layer of booster, let it dry overnight then add another layer, I repeated this process until the rubber had about 4-5 layers of booster on it. I waited two weeks for it to flatten out, once it did I glued it to my viscaria using Free-Chack 2 but the rubber is still like concrete.... My friend also boosted his TG-3 with a similar method but it too was still concrete hard. The club I play at a fellow player uses dian-chi oil and his hurricane rubbers are like butter so soft and fast, mine are fast but only if i hit the ball with extreme pace... I am dumbfounded as to why my sheets have stayed like concrete? Might be time to bite the bullet and return the expensive stuff.... (Tenergy)

    2. Top | #2
      dannyreventon is offline
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      Just so you know, The hurricane and skyline series (neo, non-neo) have different sponge hardness. In your case, you and your friend might have gotten a harder sponge compared to your fellow player, which is why you feel that yours is harder "like concrete" compared to the "butter" soft rubber of the other. Also, if you keep on boosting/re-boosting the rubber. It will get even softer.
      Is sanity the price to pay for power!?

    3. Top | #3
      mahomedy13 is offline
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      rather put booster before putting glue.

    4. Top | #4
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      To start out, the title of this thread is misleading and inaccurate. Why is it misleading and inaccurate? The title says Dian-Chi Booster does not work! And then you say that you use the booster and your rubber CURLS UP!!!!!!! THAT MEANS IT WORKED. Sorry, but if your rubber curled up, the booster expanded your sponge and that is what it is supposed to do and that is how it works. DIAN-CHI booster apparently worked fine on your H3.

      Now, the flaw with your method is probably that YOU WAITED 2 WEEKS to put the rubber back on. You waited till the rubber was completely flat. I know, I know, all those boosters say you should wait till the rubber uncurls. But honestly, that is sort of stupid. Where the booster is having the most effect on the sponge is when the sponge is most curled. I think they say to wait 3-5 days to put it on. But, even with those directions you are wasting the best part of the boost. And boosting only lasts a few weeks. So if you waited 2 weeks and your rubber was not on your bat, the boost effect wore off enough so that the sponge became flat which means it is no longer having much effect on the sponge.

      Really what you should do with the rubber is wait till it has uncurled enough for you to put it on the rubber without it curling off, like maybe 1 or 2 days at most. Or, if you are brave and don't care, you can put it on while it is still almost fully curled and just deal with the fact that it will keep trying to come off your bat.

      However, what DANNYREVENTON has said about sponge hardness is fairly accurate. You probably, inadvertently got a hard version of H3 like 42-degree hardness and your friend with the soft one probably has 38-degree hardness. Those are worlds apart. And your harder version may never be as soft as that softer version.

      Besides, booster softens the sponge a tiny bit. But not as much as you are expecting.

      And the plain and simple fact is, that if the booster curled up the sponge, it worked. I would say, try again and just put the H3 on as soon as you can, like the next day or even 6 hours after the last coat. The edges may keep curling away from the blade. But see how it feels. Keep pressing the rubber back on. Then you could feel like all the top Chinese players. You know when they keep trying to press the edges of their rubber back on to their blade in the middle of a match? Now you know why. They don't wait.

      Good luck.
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    5. Top | #5
      Der_Echte is offline
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      Baby oil will go a LONG ways towards softening the sponge without providing much an increase in speed and some increase in spin.

      Be sure to completely remove the old glue. many ways to do this. I like to use a coat of oil on the sponge, wait until the glue absorbs it, then it will be a soft gooey mess, but still heaps easier to remove than other classic ways. Once the sponge is totally free of glue, then it will soak in the baby oil. Try out a couple medium heavy coats spaced within a few hours, as soon as the sponge is ready for more. Wait a day, add another medium heavy coat, let it sit another day or two and wipe the sponge off with a towel. Use a LOT of rubber cement, like several medium heavy coats. Add extra to the edges. Add a couple medium coats to the blade. Add extra to the edges. Wait 10 minutes for the sponge to finish doming peak and catch it on the way down.

      Carefully put on your rubbers. Have a bat press ready to go and place bat in the press overnight.

      If you do not have a press, find a heavy sturdy book, put it on a straight hard surface like the floor out of the way and put a few pieces of paper over it to protect it. Place your bat over the paper all the way to the handle, so that the entire surface of the rubber only is over the paper on top of the book. Be sure to place the red rubber facing down. This is kinda like a charm the Asians have similar to sleeping towards the East. Find a medium sized hard cover book. Place a few pieces of paper over the top of the black sponge. Carefully place the book over the paper. Find the largest hard cover sturdy book you can and place it on top of the medium sized book that is on top of the black sponge. Add around 6-10 kg of weight on top of the large book. Find weight that is as even as possible. More heavy big books are great. This is a good time to get some use from encyclopedias you last used 10 yrs ago for school. Otherwise, anything that will be wide, heavy weight. I sometimes will add a few books than add a 4 litre bottle full of water on top, sometimes a heavy cast-iron 12" skillet. Use what you can so your wife or mother doesn't THROW the frypan at you and do all this stuff out of the way of any traffic in your place.

      You need to do this at evening or night time and let it set overnight while you dream about how Ur H3 is going to play.

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    6. Top | #6
      huri is offline
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      Best way to use dian chi on h3 imho is put glue on ... 2 to 4 layers depends on glue thickness, then first layer of Dian Chi, it takes about 5 6 mins for the first layer to dry, this time naturally no hair dryer. Then second layer, this time it takes about 10-15 mins to dry, then 3rd layer, it takes about an hour or so to dry. By this time your rubber will start curling and you just put the last layer and leave the rubber for 5-6 days then you just put one layer of glue on the blade and glue the rubber on but this only apllies for initial boosting of new sheet ... then you reboost with one layer only ...
      Last edited by huri; 12-02-2014 at 08:57 PM.

    7. Top | #7
      xVill is offline
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      Thanks guys, I will try and find a sheet of H3 that is 38 degrees and boost it again, does anyone know where I can purchase 38 degree H3? All of the sites in my country do not specify sponge hardness

    8. Top | #8
      mahomedy13 is offline
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      try ebay or taobao

    9. Top | #9
      Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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      Carl is right about 2 weeks - its way too long. 3 to 5 days, or max a week.
      Huri's applying method is good, but just becareful the more layers you add = thicking the rubber becomes as well as heavier.
      Some people like to add normal glue inbetween the booster too (ie glue, booster, glue, booster etc)

      Der_Echte recommendation is what I like to do too, since baby oil (johnson and johnson) is so much easier to get than TT branded boosters.
      I normally put 3 layers on (with maybe 12 hours in between) and then finally leave it for around 5 days before putting it on.
      One thing I noticed with baby oil is that the rubber doesn't loose it softness, but rather over time, the sponge becomes not as lively.

      This is with H3 and TG3 Neo

      Only rubbers that require something like 2 weeks to undome with my personal experience is blue sponge versions, the commerical orange sponge doesn't need so much time.

      So good luck in your next attemp.
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    10. Top | #10
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      I think boosters are a scam.

      [QUOTE=Tony's Table Tennis;99885]Carl is right about 2 weeks - its way too long. 3 to 5 days, or max a week.
      Huri's applying method is good, but just becareful the more layers you add = thicking the rubber becomes as well as heavier.
      Some people like to add normal glue inbetween the booster too (ie glue, booster, glue, booster etc)
      2 weeks is too long for a volatile booster. It will evaporate before then.


      Der_Echte recommendation is what I like to do too, since baby oil (johnson and johnson) is so much easier to get than TT branded boosters.
      I normally put 3 layers on (with maybe 12 hours in between) and then finally leave it for around 5 days before putting it on.
      One thing I noticed with baby oil is that the rubber doesn't loose it softness, but rather over time, the sponge becomes not as lively.
      If one uses too much then how can one expect the rubber to compress? Baby oil does not compress much. This would explain why the sponge isn't as lively.

      What people fail to realize is that the baby oil does not generate energy. Only you can do that unless you find a way to burn the oil.
      If people want a softer rubber then why don't they simply buy a softer rubber.

      The only way these boosters can help is if they
      1. reduce the internal resistance of the sponge. Mechanical engineers use models like springs and a dashpot to model real systems. The resistance is modeled by the dashpot.
      2. Make the rubber/sponge lighter. I doubt they can do that.
      Last edited by Pnachtwey; 12-06-2014 at 12:00 AM.

    11. Top | #11
      Tony's Table Tennis is offline
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      There we go - solution - buy a softer rubber
      I agree hehehehe

      And no, it won't make it lighter, normally my rubbers increase by around 5 to 7 grams in weight.

    12. Top | #12
      xVill is offline
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      I am going to purchase some baby-oil tomorrow and try it out... I dont care about weight haha my current setup Viscaria (91g) and tenergy 05 both sides isnt the lightest thing going around.

    13. Top | #13
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      Quote Originally Posted by xVill View Post
      I am going to purchase some baby-oil tomorrow and try it out... I dont care about weight haha my current setup Viscaria (91g) and tenergy 05 both sides isnt the lightest thing going around.
      Dooooonnnnnntttt!!!!! You are going to mess up a very good paddle.
      If you can't play with what you have got there is something else wrong.

    14. Top | #14
      UpSideDownCarl is online now
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      Quote Originally Posted by xVill View Post
      I am going to purchase some baby-oil tomorrow and try it out... I dont care about weight haha my current setup Viscaria (91g) and tenergy 05 both sides isnt the lightest thing going around.
      If you are using Tenergy, what would you want to do that for? Baby Oil is no good for Tenergy. If you are going to boost Tenergy you don't want to do that. Der_Echte was talking about softening H3.

    15. Top | #15
      Der_Echte is offline
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      Yup, tuning Tenergy is touchy with baby oil or paraffin oil, more times than not you make T05 a mushy mess. I would agree you simply ruin a bat that way. Even old-azz T05 is better than a lot of modern rubbers, but a bad tuning job on a Tenergy is easy to accomplish and then you are screwed.

      I agree most of the H series is way too hard and needs a lot of breaking in and sometimes some softening up to get it in the right zone.

    16. Top | #16
      xVill is offline
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      I'm not tuning my tournament/club setup, I have about 7-8 old crappy sheets of H3 that I am going to boost. I am going to put dian-chi oil on my tenergy though when I replace it in three weeks...

    17. Top | #17
      xVill is offline
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      Quote Originally Posted by Der_Echte View Post
      Yup, tuning Tenergy is touchy with baby oil or paraffin oil, more times than not you make T05 a mushy mess. I would agree you simply ruin a bat that way. Even old-azz T05 is better than a lot of modern rubbers, but a bad tuning job on a Tenergy is easy to accomplish and then you are screwed.

      I agree most of the H series is way too hard and needs a lot of breaking in and sometimes some softening up to get it in the right zone.

      Also Der_Echte how does Super Power XP become once it's had baby oil on it?

    18. Top | #18
      Der_Echte is offline
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      I never needed to do that. I tried some parafin oil once on a spare bat and it was better performing but i only need control on bh wing.

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