How to glue long pips out OX (no sponge) rubbers?

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I am making and selling TT blades, mostly with rubbers. I have installed hundreds of pips in and some pips out with sponge, but never an OX rubber. I opened the package with the Palio CK531A rubber today and expected the rubber to have some kind of a body, but the rubber sheet holding the pimples is flimsy and as soft as a balloon.
Can anyone who has experience with gluing this type of rubber help me out please?

What is the best glue to use? I have Haifu water-soluable bond, Haifu Dolphin and Tulpe on hand and usually use them by applying one coat to the blade and 2 to 3 coats to the rubber. Then wait until they are no longer tacky before applying the rubber to the blade. This has worked for me with all sponge backed rubbers, but this flimsy balloon type rubber scares me. How do avoid getting wrinkles into the rubber sheet when applying it? Will the rubber sheet get somewhat stiffer after glue is applied to it?

Any help with this would be greatly appreciated.

Hammerhead
 
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I glued only a few OX LPs with water glue in my old club in Korea (for scouting purposes), but what I did was first add water glue to the blade and the rubber. I had to put rubber pips down and brush on glue holing the base bottom secure and brushing away. I would have ot place the rubber over some newspaper or something to avoid getting the stuff on the club's break area table.

Once I got the glue on both blade and rubber, I would wait for it to half dry a couple minutes, then I would get a long 3 cm thick roller and wrap the bottom part of the rubber pips down over half the roller and leave a little of the bottom of the rubber (with the ITTF mark) hanging over. I would hold the roller over the neck of the blade and get the first 1/2 to 1 cm of the base of the rubber seated right. It isn't easy, you have to hold everything up with one hand on each end and use the thumbs and to get it lined up right and lightly smoothly pressed down secure. I never let the glue totally dry so I could move it a little if I was off. Once I got the bottom cm of the rubber lined up right, I could lower the roller to the blade and let the excess rubber fold over my roller towards the blade handle. All I had to do then keep a small tension pulling rubber loosely towards blade handle with my thumbs as I cm by cm rolled the roller forward and pressed down some.

It is kinda tricky, but if you do not go for too much area at a time and keep your tension not so tight, but not let it be loose at all, it works out.

After the rubber is glued on, I would weight it down with several TT magazines and let it sit on the table in the club waiting area. After I felt it was dry enough, like 10-15 minutes, I would carefully place the bat pips facing down over the cutting surface I prepared on the club's table and use a perforated razor (fresh one I just clipped off) to cut around the rubber. I would need to press down very firmly on the bat while I did this ONE SHOT around the blade, sometimes I would have to turn the bat a little as I cut to keep it where I needed it to finish the cut in one shot. The cutting board we used (usually the cardboard the rubber came in, would allow us to pivot the bat as a whole as we cut around it to allow us to make the cut in one shot to make it look professional.

I only did it a few times for the scout bats I made. Korean coach must have done this so many times in ONE WEEK she could pass out from boredom. 1/2 of the Korean ladies use Grass D-Techs OX on BH and replace it every year.

Once you do this a few times, you will get confident in your ability to do it.
 
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There's a few vids on YouTube showing ways to do this. I don't think there is an 'easy' way but the least tricky is to use glue sheets instead of liquid glue.
 
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I saw someone on OOAK say they got an ADHESIVE protective sheet stuck to the pips side to stabilize the sheet while putting it on. Making the sheet stable is real important. I have seen some coaches do it with their bare hands. I have seen some use the cardboard it came in to stabilize it. At the end of the day it does come down to good coordination.
 
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I saw someone on OOAK say they got an ADHESIVE protective sheet stuck to the pips side to stabilize the sheet while putting it on. Making the sheet stable is real important. I have seen some coaches do it with their bare hands. I have seen some use the cardboard it came in to stabilize it. At the end of the day it does come down to good coordination.

Alex did that, i'm sure one can google is tutorial from his website.
Very good idea too.

I also use water based glue, and depending what rubbers to glue (the KTL Stranger is a stick machine and only way is to stabise the pip out area).
I find gluing it pretty simple, just the cutting is not as fun as ones with sponges.
 
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Thanks, joskelly,
I did find a video on YouTube that is very helpful. It recommends using Tear Mender as a glue which gives you time to move the rubber once it is on the blade. It looks like something I can handle alright. Had to order the Tear Mender from the US as I could not find a supplier in Canada.
Thank you all for your help.
 
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I don't use water based glues when attaching LP 0X to a blade. I have found the water based glues don't hold. The key is patience and care. 755 LP 0X will try to curl over itself and ruin the rubber. It is best if the LP is pinned down before gluing. Then one must wait for the rubber to get to a state where it doesn't curl over on itself. Once the glued LP 0X stops curling I then carefully apply it to the blade. Sometimes I use a wine bottle to roll the LP 0X on to the blade.
 
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