Gluing rubbers when glue is still wet?

says Xxxxxz
says Xxxxxz
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Most glues instruct you to wait until the glue on the blade and rubber have dried before fixing the rubber in place, but does fixing the rubber when the glue is still wet - and then leaving it to dry - also work? Would doing it this way create a stronger bond?
 
says Spin and more spin.
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The question simply shows that you are not fully familiar with how the kinds of glues in question actually work.

The old glues were oil based (VOC based) rubber cements with varying amounts of solvents (VOCs).

The water based glues are basically the same kinds of rubber or synthetic rubber glues that have had a chemical process done to them that makes them soluble in water until they dry. Once the glues dry, they are no longer water soluble. But they are still basically the same as rubber cement. Just synthetic and latex versions.

When these kinds of glues are wet, THEY WILL NOT BIND to anything. They will be wet.

So, if you like the idea of air pockets or the rubber simply falling off or falling half off, go for it.

But how these glues work is when they are "dry" they are sticky. And when they are wet, they are wet but they do not bind: they are not sticky while wet. And nobody would think to glue their rubbers on with something that has wet properties like water. Attaching the rubbers while the glue is still fully wet is kind like trying to glue the rubbers with water. You would even have a rough time placing the rubber onto the blade with wet glue. It would spill onto your counter and floor.

Trying to apply the rubbers with partially dried glue would result in lumps and areas where the wet glue slid off part of the rubber.

It also should be noted that what these glues bind to best is glue to glue. Or to something porous like sponge and wood. Which is also why, if a blade has been sealed with too thick a layer of sealant, a person will have the rubber fall off over and over again because the sealant itself is not porous enough.

When the glue is fully dried it has the strongest potential to bind one surface with glue to another surface that has glue. Which is why you apply the glue to both the blade and the rubber.

So the short answer is, trying to attach the rubbers before the glue is fully dried will result in some problems and will not result in a stronger bond.

If the glue was almost completely dry and there were one or two very small white spots the size of this o, you can get away with it. But you will still be better off waiting for that to dry fully.


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I've just been gluing them up and slapping them together as soon as I finish both the blade and rubber, then tossing them into the press for 20+ minutes. Never had a problem with any falling off yet, or surface pockets.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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I've just been gluing them up and slapping them together as soon as I finish both the blade and rubber, then tossing them into the press for 20+ minutes. Never had a problem with any falling off yet, or surface pockets.

If the glue does not drip off rubber when you place it on, then it is part way dried. If it does not cause the glue to ripple and become uneven, you can get away with doing what you said and letting it dry while being pressed. But 20 min in the press will not fully dry the glue. And sometimes you don't realize that there are pockets where the rubber is not glued on properly and you think you are mishitting the ball when you hit those pockets.

And as dracula, I mean darucla, said, the water still undried in the glue has nowhere to go but into the wood of your blade.


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Well I use Nittaku Finezip and I have read several times that you apply 1 layer to blade and rubber, let it dry, and then apply 1 layer to the rubber and stick it on directly. That's what I have done and it works well. I have the feeling it makes the rubber a bit more springy (good with H3 Neo).
 
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Well I use Nittaku Finezip and I have read several times that you apply 1 layer to blade and rubber, let it dry, and then apply 1 layer to the rubber and stick it on directly. That's what I have done and it works well. I have the feeling it makes the rubber a bit more springy (good with H3 Neo).

Some players in Hungary use this method when they don't have time to press the rubber.
They say pressing the rubber for a night gives them more control (they say if they would have to use numbers the control improves by 20%).
According to them if you don't let the last layer dry completely then it will give a similar sensation.

I can neither confirm nor deny it.
 
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Some players in Hungary use this method when they don't have time to press the rubber.
They say pressing the rubber for a night gives them more control (they say if they would have to use numbers the control improves by 20%).
According to them if you don't let the last layer dry completely then it will give a similar sensation.

I can neither confirm nor deny it.
Sounds like a placebo because those are two completely different things which are said to give a similar "sensation"?
 
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I'm not so familiar with glueing OX pips rubbers, and the few times i tried I just didn't manage to get it perfect.
Now I thought that I'd try to glue it when the glue still is wet, and it worked fine. I used the Revolution No3 Normal viscosity (thinnest version) on the blade and as quick as possible placed my rubber upon the wet glue. Brushed away some air bubbles and let it dry for a couple of hours.
I took it off after testing it, to see how the blade looked, and there wasn't any visible damage what I saw anyway.

Anyone else having experience with wet glueing OX pips rubber?

 
says Table tennis clown
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especially when , after re-boosting, i have to glue a rubber back onto a blade I sometimes feel it would be easier to match if the last glue
would still be wet. One might be able to shift the rubber into position.

Now that others have tried it I will have a go myself. I use Revolution3, one on the blade and two on the rubber.
After all, the wood can not be damaged as there will already be a dry layer of glue there to protect it

 
says Rozena! You complete me.
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Have not tried gluing rubber on wet glue but based on my speculative view:

When you do remove the rubber again and wishes to put on other rubber, the residue glue will be sort of this slimy-gooey thingy that is hard to remove and will prevent subsequent good regluing of other rubber.
 
I never let it dry, never had any problem with binding nor problems with removing from an old surface.
What makes the difference here I thing is if You let it dry its immediately ready for playing, If it is wet You'll need to wait for it to dry before playing.

Cheers
L-zr
 
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especially when , after re-boosting, i have to glue a rubber back onto a blade I sometimes feel it would be easier to match if the last glue
would still be wet. One might be able to shift the rubber into position.

Now that others have tried it I will have a go myself. I use Revolution3, one on the blade and two on the rubber.
After all, the wood can not be damaged as there will already be a dry layer of glue there to protect it

After all, the wood can not be damaged as there will already be a dry layer of glue there to protect it

Smart :)

 
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Have not tried gluing rubber on wet glue but based on my speculative view:

When you do remove the rubber again and wishes to put on other rubber, the residue glue will be sort of this slimy-gooey thingy that is hard to remove and will prevent subsequent good regluing of other rubber.

Well. It was like normal rubber removal. The glue was dried and fine :)

 
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