Advice to prevent ESN rubber shrinkage?

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Nittaku FastArc G-1 doesn't shrink if you glue it without any stretching in the first place (don't push hard when putting rubber to the surface of the blade and rolling it with roller).
Not sure about other ESN rubbers.
 
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I think that esn rubbers shrinks becouse of heavy factory boosting. So only way to prevent shrinking is buy a new sheet, cut the package open and let it sit in a closet for a year. Then glue it to your blade without any stretching. But this way your rubber won’t feel as good as it should feel so I suggest that you glue your rubber to the blade and play it as long as it is time to replace it.
 
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ESN rubbers does include factory booster, so by defeat, it would shrink. Softer sponges are a lot more obvious. Harder sponges not so much.

Other than the option listed by OP, something quite popular on the gluing part is, put the rubber over the blade and trace the blade with a pencil/pen on the sponge (if it is a black sponge, find something to trace)

Then cut out the trace.
This way you would have a perfect fit without glue on.
Then glue as per normal.
A perfect placement would not overlap. Make sure the glue is very very dry.
If it is even slightly wet, it would stretch.
Also, don't put too much glue.

Other than that, when it shrinks, boost it with 1 layer of booster, and it would expand a bit.
 
says Spin and more spin.
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Posts 2 and 3 hint at this: a certain amount of the "shrinkage" of the rubber happens when you roll the rubber onto the blade to make sure no air pockets form. Some rubbers are more stretchy than others, so, some stretch more during that process than others.

Does the factory tuning cause some of the shrinkage? I don't know. That may be the case. But if you roll the rubber onto the blade face, that definitely causes most ESN rubbers to stretch. In my experience, when I placed the rubber down from handle to tip without rolling onto the part of the rubber that had not been pressed into the blade yet, and just pressed straight down on the parts of the rubber already in contact with the glue, I did not get shrinkage. So I am not really sure.

One thing to examine: if the shrinkage is mostly from the tip and not from the sides: that is most likely from the rubber being stretched while being put on. If the total width, at the widest part of the rubber is also narrower than it was when you cut, then that means it is very likely to be from the rubber shrinking as a result of the dissipation of the factory tuning.

In the long run, I personally would not worry about it since you shouldn't be contacting the ball with the edge of the blade and if there was edge tape on the blade you probably would not even see it.

But, that is me and since it appears you would rather not have it, one method I have heard about is putting edge tape on the edge of the blade that is the thickness of the blade (no overhang, tape just on the edge of the blade: the edge tape cut to the thickness of the blade or like edge tape used to be in the 80s and 90s). Then when you put the rubber on to cut, you will be cutting about 1mm larger than the size of the blade face. If the rubber shrinks more than that, you could make edge tape 2 layers so you have a slightly bigger overhang for when the rubber shrinks.
 
I had a rubber on one of my feeder blades, shrink without removal...
Surface of the blade started to appear, and gap become larger and larger. Felt like the sea taking out the land
I got 12 blades with all different rubbers all ESN, never happened to me. No regluing garbage of course.
 
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ESN rubbers does include factory booster, so by defeat, it would shrink. Softer sponges are a lot more obvious. Harder sponges not so much.

Other than the option listed by OP, something quite popular on the gluing part is, put the rubber over the blade and trace the blade with a pencil/pen on the sponge (if it is a black sponge, find something to trace)

Then cut out the trace.
This way you would have a perfect fit without glue on.
Then glue as per normal.
A perfect placement would not overlap. Make sure the glue is very very dry.
If it is even slightly wet, it would stretch.
Also, don't put too much glue.

Other than that, when it shrinks, boost it with 1 layer of booster, and it would expand a bit.
So are you saying that my 2 suggestions actually do help a little?
 
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I use a lot of Rakza 7. The trick is to let it dry thoroughly before gluing it to the paddle. If the rubber/glue is still damp or wet when attached to the blade, the rubber will tend to shrink. This is the wrong way to get "tensioned" rubber.
I would like to see proof that ESN rubbers are boosted from the factory.
 
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In your experience, do ESN rubbers benefit from booster?

Somebody said that G1 is not factory-boosted, so maybe that type of rubber would benefit more than factory-boosted ESN rubbers?
Well. I haven't tried the ESN rubbers enough to verify if they benefit in any other way than that they expand a bit, but of course they change in some way and I guess it's very individual if it works better or worse for you as a player. But if you feel that the G1 is a bit too numb or hard, a little booster could make it softer and perhaps a little bit bouncier.
 
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ESN rubbers does include factory booster, so by defeat, it would shrink. Softer sponges are a lot more obvious. Harder sponges not so much.

Other than the option listed by OP, something quite popular on the gluing part is, put the rubber over the blade and trace the blade with a pencil/pen on the sponge (if it is a black sponge, find something to trace)

Then cut out the trace.
This way you would have a perfect fit without glue on.
Then glue as per normal.
A perfect placement would not overlap. Make sure the glue is very very dry.
If it is even slightly wet, it would stretch.
Also, don't put too much glue.

Other than that, when it shrinks, boost it with 1 layer of booster, and it would expand a bit.
Apart from expanding a little, do you know if booster increases the speed and spin when used on ESN rubbers?
 
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Apart from expanding a little, do you know if booster increases the speed and spin when used on ESN rubbers?
practical experience - yes.

stretch the rubber has been going on for decades. That was all speed glue was about.
And guys like Butterfly just do it better with Tenergy. Hence the world tension, tensor comes out.
Its all about stretching and increasing the spin on the top sheet.
The sponge would provide the "bounciness" from a harder sponge.

Too soft, obviously is the total opposite.
 
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practical experience - yes.

stretch the rubber has been going on for decades. That was all speed glue was about.
And guys like Butterfly just do it better with Tenergy. Hence the world tension, tensor comes out.
Its all about stretching and increasing the spin on the top sheet.
The sponge would provide the "bounciness" from a harder sponge.

Too soft, obviously is the total opposite.
Do certain boosters work better on ESN rubbers than others? for example Seamoon vs Lidu vs Dianchi?

Also, it was said that Fastarc and Rakza are not factory boosted, whereas Evolution is heavily factory boosted. Does that mean that Fastarc will benefit more from booster than Evolution?
 
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Do certain boosters work better on ESN rubbers than others? for example Seamoon vs Lidu vs Dianchi?

Also, it was said that Fastarc and Rakza are not factory boosted, whereas Evolution is heavily factory boosted. Does that mean that Fastarc will benefit more from booster than Evolution?
I like to ask you the sample question
is 2 weeks enough?
 
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