Blade Lacquering

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Hi, I just recently purchased a Timo Boll ALC which has Koto a harder wood as an outer ply. I’m going to glue my rubbers with Water based glue, but I’m considering in lacquering the blade. Should I lacquer it even though I’ll use water based glue and the blade has a hard wood outer ply?
 
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it might all depend on the quality of the manufacturing and of course the top veneer, If both are of high grade then lacquering is not necessary.
If one can not make an evaluation of the above quality maybe better to apply a light cote of water-based polyurethane. I tip a lint-free rag into the liquid and then rub it gently onto the surfaces.
I am not claiming this to be the ultimate method but it works for me
 
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it might all depend on the quality of the manufacturing and of course the top veneer, If both are of high grade then lacquering is not necessary.
If one can not make an evaluation of the above quality maybe better to apply a light cote of water-based polyurethane. I tip a lint-free rag into the liquid and then rub it gently onto the surfaces.
I am not claiming this to be the ultimate method but it works for me

Why Water Based Poly?

I like the old fashioned version. It seems silly to me to put water on a blade when sealing it to protect it from water. But is there a reason for the Water Based version?

I like using MInWax Wipe-On Poly which is thinned and can be rubbed on with a cloth. It takes about 3 min to apply to both sides, maybe a little less. It does take longer to dry. But I like that there is no water in it. And that, as a result of having been thinned, you can put a REALLY thin layer but still cover the whole surface with one thin coat.

In the end, there are lots of ways to go about this. But, I am just curious why someone would prefer a Water Based Sealant. I think the science behind it is cool. I just have not liked any of the ones I tried even though it is convenient that they dry fairly fast.

 
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Should 1 ply hinoki blades be lacquered? I’m about to lacquer mine (it’s my first one), but can anyone suggest a reason to not do so?

Since it’s only 1 ply, there’s no top veneer to get pulled off after all.
 
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Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.
 
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Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.

I do not actually have a preference for water-based polyurethane . I just use it because i had it in my shed 😂
A little "heads-up" about modern water-based varnishes and paints: ONCE DRIED AND HARDENED THEY ARE NOT INFLUENCED BY WATER .
( or water -based glues.)

So no problemo You use solvent based urethane and I use water-based urethane both dry in minutes, both will seal the blade....... BASTA !!!!!! 😁

 
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Also, I don't think you need to seal a TB ALC. I like sealing my blades. But with Butterfly's quality and the Koto top ply, there is no need and it would be a personal choice.

The reason I like to seal is, the sealant I use makes it fairly easy to take the rubbers off the blade. Which is also another reason why I don't love Water Based Sealants. The ones I have tried, the glue adheres to those sealants more strongly than I would want. But I have only tried to Water Based Sealants. So I don't know if that is the case for others that I have not tried.

Exactly why I do it now, so much easier to take the rubbers off after sealing the blade.

 
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Should 1 ply hinoki blades be lacquered? I’m about to lacquer mine (it’s my first one), but can anyone suggest a reason to not do so?

Since it’s only 1 ply, there’s no top veneer to get pulled off after all.

Yes a Hinoki blade should always be laquered. The older it gets the drier and a dried wood splinters easily. Always remember when you rip tho old rubber off to do it across the grains. From left to right not top to bottom.

Cheers
L-zr

 
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I have a nittaku acoustic blade which is known for feel but it has limba outer plys so if i dont seal, it splinter when i take rubbers off. But if i do seal, then it will have less feeling which is not what i want. Anyone can help me with this? I am thinking that I should only seal the outer edges/rim of the blade, this way i will still have feeling in centre, but it may be inconsistent shots, what do i do?
 
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I have a nittaku acoustic blade which is known for feel but it has limba outer plys so if i dont seal, it splinter when i take rubbers off. But if i do seal, then it will have less feeling which is not what i want. Anyone can help me with this? I am thinking that I should only seal the outer edges/rim of the blade, this way i will still have feeling in centre, but it may be inconsistent shots, what do i do?
Really, a thin layer of sealant is not going to change the feeling of the blade. You would have to put on several thick layers of sealant to mess with the how the wood feels.

But there are some people who actually use aerosol hair spray on the blade face to make it so the rubbers come off without creating splinters in the top ply. That would work too if it is just for the rubbers coming off more easily and not for protecting the blade face from water damage from the water in the water based glue.

And I can say for sure, if you glue rubbers onto a blade several times a year, and the blade face is not sealed, the blade will start feeling duller as you continue changing rubbers, because every time you change rubbers and then glue, you are pouring a chemical compound which has a water base, and the water will sink into the wood.

So, from that standpoint, it could be argued that not sealing the blade could ultimately have more of an impact on a blade getting slower and having a feeling that becomes duller over time.

I have not heard anyone talk about this in a long time. But, in 2010-2012, I remember hearing a few pros mention that, because of the water based glue, they had to change blades more frequently because of how the water affects the blade. Having gone from VOC glue to Water Based glue so recently, they were still able to remember how much longer their blades had lasted before they started using WB glue.

Worth thinking about what that means.

 
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Thanks for your reply,

I also need help in which type of glue i should use that will be the least likely to splinter the outer ply. IMPORTANT: i am planning to keep the same rubbers stuck on my acoustic without taking them off for 1 year so please take that into account. (My Rubbers will be h3 neo blue sponge and rakza 7 with no boosting at all)

Can i ask 7 questions and would appreciate help from anyone.

Question 1: Which is the brand of water based glue that will least likely to splinter the outer ply (for limba) after 1 year of using the same rubbers? ( the rubbers are dhs hurricane 3 40° blue sponge and rakza 7)

Question 2: is it better to use a VOC glue or the weakest(least chance of splinter) non-VOC glue to reduce the chance of splintering after one year of use of the same rubbers?

Question 3: If the VOC glue is better for no splinter after one year use of same rubbers, can i get away with not sealing my blade at all and just glue my rubbers with VOC glue?

Question 4: If VOC glue is better for no splinter, what is the best brand/brands of VOC glue that will least likely splinter the outer limba ply?

Question 5: where can i order the voc glues because its so hard to find some online.

Question 6: About the aerosol hair spray that you mentioned, does it have similar affects of regular blade lacquer? Does it make the blade more stiff, or change any property of the (acoustic) blade or make it harder like the blade lacquer?

Question 7: If it doesn’t change any properties of the blade then what are the brands that you recommend that i use? (Never heard of aerosol hair spray)

Apologies for asking so much of your time.

 
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Question 6: About the aerosol hair spray that you mentioned, does it have similar affects of regular blade lacquer? Does it make the blade more stiff, or change any property of the (acoustic) blade or make it harder like the blade lacquer?

Neither will make the blade more stiff and neither will actually change the playing characteristics of the blade. The hairspray would put such a thin layer on your blade that there is no possible way it could change the playing characteristics. If you put a thin layer of sealant, it also would not change the playing characteristics.

But, what Lazer wrote above should be good enough. Remove the rubbers the way Lazer described.

Have you used H3 Neo Blue Sponge before without boosting it?

 
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I have never even used Chinese rubber, im pretty new to this sport iv only been playing for 4 years but i can loop really well. All my loops are a brushing motion which according to my research it’s perfect for me to get chinese rubber.

which is better for non boosting, H3 neo or regular H3? (The blue sponge version)

Which one will last longer in terms of tackiness? H3 or H3 neo? (Blue sponge)

And should i get 39,40,41 hardness for non boosting?

 
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I have never even used Chinese rubber, im pretty new to this sport iv only been playing for 4 years but i can loop really well. All my loops are a brushing motion which according to my research it’s perfect for me to get chinese rubber.

which is better for non boosting, H3 neo or regular H3? (The blue sponge version)

Which one will last longer in terms of tackiness? H3 or H3 neo? (Blue sponge)

And should i get 39,40,41 hardness for non boosting?

Anyone else have any thoughts on someone who has never used Chinese rubber, using it for the first time without ever trying it and thinking they want to use it WITHOUT BOOSTING?

Will that rubber stay on his blade for 1 year without boosting?

 
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omd, you guys probably wont believe me, but i did try the nittaku dhs turbo rubber on a butterfly sardius blade unboosted from my club, i just forgot that this counts as chinese rubber for some reason, and it was a heavy setup and all my shots were more on the inconsistent side but not bad. My shots where fast, probably due to a really fast blade that is not for my level, so i guess Unboosted h3 rubber on acoustic is good for me right?

 
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