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I have bought a hurricane 3 blue sponge 40 degree for my forehand and a 37 degree orange sponge hurricane 3. I also have Haifu yellow oil booster, how many layers should I put?

If you are new I recommend two layers on the BS. If you over do it the sponge is finished. If you under do it you can always boost again.

No boosting on the 37 degree
 
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If you played Chinese before, you could even start with 1 layer. Especially if you put it on a fast blade.
 
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If you are new I recommend two layers on the BS. If you over do it the sponge is finished. If you under do it you can always boost again.

No boosting on the 37 degree
why dont u recommend boosting the 37 degree?
I recently tried a 37 degree OS on my friends setup (AJH TMXi PRO)
He used a very thin layer and the rubber was still too slow for my liking on BH. Needed another layer to come alive I assume
 
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why dont u recommend boosting the 37 degree?
I recently tried a 37 degree OS on my friends setup (AJH TMXi PRO)
He used a very thin layer and the rubber was still too slow for my liking on BH. Needed another layer to come alive I assume

You can over kill soft sponge. 37 degree is on the soft end booster can kill it.

Like I said in many other threads, Chinese fans had batch tested the hardness of commercial H3. They are rubbish.

You buy 5 sheets of 37 degree commercial H3, the true hardness can range + or - 2 degree. Your friend's 37 degree could be a 39 degree who knows.

Same as provincial H3. QC is a bit better but still sucks.

To have true consistency you need the National version.
 
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You can over kill soft sponge. 37 degree is on the soft end booster can kill it.

Like I said in many other threads, Chinese fans had batch tested the hardness of commercial H3. They are rubbish.

You buy 5 sheets of 37 degree commercial H3, the true hardness can range + or - 2 degree. Your friend's 37 degree could be a 39 degree who knows.

Same as provincial H3. QC is a bit better but still sucks.

To have true consistency you need the National version.
My method is to now glue any commercial H3
on my blade without boosting because one really can not tell anymore what hardness it is . After this initial "cold run" I then decide how much boosting (if any) I feel is needed.
I cut my rubbers with scissors and leave a generous 3-4mm overhang so it is then easier to place back for the second gluing.

I found one can not rely on what is printed on the cover as hardness ,just because it sold as a H39 means very little and I also had Rubbers that came with a sticker over the original print on the covers that would (for example) correct a 38 to a 39 etc.

Still, having moaned about it, and even though they are not as sticky anymore as they used to be, I regard the commercial H3 as great rubber at a decent price, good enough for any club play and also some tournament players.
 
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You can over kill soft sponge. 37 degree is on the soft end booster can kill it.

Like I said in many other threads, Chinese fans had batch tested the hardness of commercial H3. They are rubbish.

You buy 5 sheets of 37 degree commercial H3, the true hardness can range + or - 2 degree. Your friend's 37 degree could be a 39 degree who knows.

Same as provincial H3. QC is a bit better but still sucks.

To have true consistency you need the National version.
I have the national os 37 degree, should I boost it?
 
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How do you boost? Do you put glue on first then boost? Or boost straight onto the neo

Neo already has a glue layer on. Just apply a thin layer of oil directly onto it. Once dried you can apply the second layer of oil.

Once dried, apply a good water based glue layer. This is a crucial step because during the curly period booster oil will gradually evaporate. The glue layer helps minimize the evaporation rate = makes the boosting effect last longer.

When the rubber returns to a flat shape, you can glue it. I would recommend a fresh layer of glue.
 
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Neo already has a glue layer on. Just apply a thin layer of oil directly onto it. Once dried you can apply the second layer of oil.

Once dried, apply a good water based glue layer. This is a crucial step because during the curly period booster oil will gradually evaporate. The glue layer helps minimize the evaporation rate = makes the boosting effect last longer.

When the rubber returns to a flat shape, you can glue it. I would recommend a fresh layer of glue.
So after the second layer I should put a layer of glue? And then I’m assuming wait for it to uncurl? And then put more glue to glue onto blade?
 
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So I’m think I’ll put 1 thin layer and 1 thick layer for 40 degree blue sponge and then 2 thin layer for orange 37 degree

Sounds great!!

Btw BS is fundamentally different from OS. At the same degree of hardness, BS "feels" harder. BS can absorb more booster than OS before overkill.
 
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CNT all have now switched to the dry boosting treatment on DHS high-density rubbers, H3 in particular.
China Yinhe 1986 entitled as "exclusive brand owner" for the product.
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Be happy all
 
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