Composition of Blades

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I am taking this list from the Ooak Forums, this is the link to the thread on that forum:

http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=7194

I think that knowing what your blade is made of is very helpful in knowing a range of blades that play similarly that work with your style of play, or if your blade does not work for you, it helps you to figure out what blades might.

I recently switched from a Primorac to a Cornilleau All+. In terms of wood composition I went from limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba, to hinoki-limba-ayous-limba-hinoki. They both have good touch and good snap. When you hit hard the ball goes pretty fast but they have a lot of touch and control for short game and a lot of dwell time for looping and generating spin. But, even though I love both my Primorac and my new Cornilleau, I know that the blades that feel best to me are made in Sweden and the ply construction is: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba: the Eneregy Wood, the Allround Evolution and the Allround Oversize. I love the Clipper as well (two more plies of ayous in the Clipper) but with 7 plies, it is a little too fast for me at this point.

Anyway, here is the list they had. If you know the composition of blades that are not on the list, feel free to post them.

Andro C. Suss Hinoki All+ = hinoki - ayous - ayous - ayous - hinoki
Andro C. Suss Hinoki Off = hinoki - ayous - ayous - ayous - hinoki
Andro Kinetic ALL+ = limba - limba - abachi - abachi - limba - limba Note: abachi = ayous. And yes, Andro Kinetic ALL+ is 6-ply !!

Avalox BT555 : limba - spruce - ayous - spruce - limba
Avalox P500: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto
Avalox P700: limba-meranti-ayous-ayous-ayous-meranti-limba

Butterfly Adolescen: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Butterfly Amultart: hinoki-zlz-kiri-zlc-hinoki
Butterfly Balsacarbo X5: basswood-carbon-balsa-carbon-basswood
Butterfly Gergely Tamca 5000:cypress-carbon laminate-balsa-carbon laminate-cypress 7.0mm
Butterfly Innerforce ZLC: limba-limba-zlc-ayous-zlc-limba-limba
Butterfly Jonyer-Hinoki: 5 ply all hinoki
Butterfly Joo Se Hyuk: planchonello-poplar-kiri?-poplar-planchonello
Butterfly Jun Mizutani: limba-zlc-limba-kiri-limba-zlc-limba
Butterfly Kazan: hinoki-walnut-balsa-walnut-hinoki
Butterfly Keyshot Light = ayous - arylate - kiri - arylate - ayous top ply uncertain whether ayous or koto
Butterfly Kim Taek Soo: hinoki 10.3
Butterfly Kong Ling Hui: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto
Butterfly Kreanga Carbon = hinoki - ULC - kiri - ULC - hinoki
Butterfly M. Maze: limba-arylate/carbon-limba-ayous-limba-arylate/carbon-limba
Butterfly Oh Sang Eun = koto - koto - ayous - koto - koto
Butterfly Primorac: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Butterfly Pter Korbel: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Butterfly Photino: hinoki-zylon-kiri-zylon-hinoki
Butterfly Timo Boll Spirit: koto-arylate/carbon-limba-kiri-limb-arylate/carbon-koto
Butterfly Viscaria: koto-ALC-balsa-ALC-koto
Butterfly Zhang Yining: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba

Cornilleau Hinotec ALL+ = hinoki - limba - ayous - limba - hinoki
Cornilleau Hinotec OFF- = hinoki - limba - ayous - limba - hinoki (just different thickness compared to ALL+)
Cornilleau Hinotec OFF = hinoki - limba - kiri - limba - hinoki
Cornilleau Hinotec OFF+ = hinoki - carbon - kiri - carbon -hinoki

Dawei GTS: hinoki-arylate/carbon-ayous-arylate/carbon-hinoki
Dawei Wavestone: limba-arylate/carbon-ayous-arylate/carbon-limba

Donic Alligator Combi:limba-acajou-balsa-abachi-ash blade thickness is 6mm
Donic Baum Sawtec: ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous 7mm
Donic Burn All+: mahogany - awan - kiri - awan - mahogany
Donic Burn Off-: mahogany - awan - kiri - awan - mahogany
Donic Burn Off: mahogany - awan - kiri - awan - mahogany
Donic Dicon: limba - spruce - ayous - spruce - limba
Donic Dima Sawtec: koto-kiri-kiri-kiri-koto 6.3mm
Donic Liping Kitex: kiso hinoki-ayous-texalium-kiri-texalium-ayous-kiso hinoki
Donic Opticon RS: beech-ayous-balsa-ayous-beech
Donic Persson Carbotec: koto-carbon/glass-tanne-kiri-tanne-carbon/glass-koto
Donic Persson Exclusive Off: limba-koto-balsa-koto-limba
Donic Powerplay = koto - foil - ayous - ayous - ayous - foil - koto
Donic Waldner Dotec Hinoki: kiso hinoki-kiso hinoki-kiso hinoki
Donic Waldner V1 : limba - limba - ayous - limba - limba

DHS H-WL: limba-meranti-ayous-meranti-limba
DHS Hurricane Hao: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto
DHS Hurricane King: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto


Galaxy/Yinhe T10: cypress-carbon-balsa-carbon-cypress
Galaxy/Yinhe T11: limba-carbon-balsa-carbon-limba
Galaxy/Yinhe M-4: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba

Hunter Hawk: poplar-bass-poplar 4.3mm

Joola Chen Weixing: limba-koto-black cloth-kiri-black cloth-koto-limba
Joola Fever: limba-carbon meliorate-ayous-kiri-ayous-carbon meliorate-limba
Joola K5 : limba - limba - ayous - limba - limba
Joola Rosskopf Force: hinoki-carbon-kiri-carbon-hinoki
Joola Trix Fast: cypress-spruce-x (balsa/carbon)-spruce-cypress
Joola Trix Medium: samba-enzo-lilac-samba-enzo-samba
Joola Wing Fast: hinoki-ayous-kiri-ayous-hinoki
Joola Wing Medium: koto-ayous-kiri-ayous-koto

Nexy Color: hinoki-spruce-ayous-spruce-hinoki
Nexy Spear: limba- spruce- ayous- spruce- limba

Nimatsu Tsunami Combi Attack: 0,6mm limba - 2,0mm balsa - 6,0mm balsa - 2,0mm balsa - 0,6mm ayous

Nittaku Acoustic: limba-limba-tung tree-limba-limba
Nittaku Ludeack: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba
Nittaku Rutis: walnut-GCarbon-limba-GCarbon-walnut (G-Carbon = Glassfibre impregnated with carbon resin, no weave. Shatters. Caution: sharp splinters.
Nittaku Septear: 7 ply all hinoki
Nittaku Violin: white ash-white ash-kiri-white ash-white ash
Nittaku Wang Nan: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto

Stiga Allround Classic: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba
Stiga Allround Evolution: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba
Stiga Clipper: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba
Stiga Ebenholz NCT V: ebony-spruce-ayous-spruce-ebony
Stiga Energy Wood: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba
Stiga Offensive Classic Old: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto
Stiga Offensive Classic New: (black walnut/limba)-spruce-ayous-spruce-(black walnut/limba)
Stiga Tube Offensive: limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba

Tibhar IV-L: ayous - ayous - ayous - ayous
Tibhar IV-L Light Contact: ayous - ayous - ayous - ayous
Tibhar Lucjan Blaszczyk = limba - limba - limba - limba - limba

TSP Break 9: 9 ply all hinoki
TSP Break 11: 11 ply all hinoki

Ulmo Duality: (FH=>BH) Samba-Balsa-Poplar-Poplar-Poplar-Balsa-Mahogany

Xiom Amadeus: hinoki-limba-ayous- ayous-ayous-limba-hinoki
Xiom Amati = limba - limba - carbon fleece - ayous - carbon fleece - limba - limba uncertain
Xiom Aria: limba-spruce-ayous-spruce-limba
Xiom Control: hinoki-aramid carbon-kiri-aramid carbon-hinoki
Xiom Fuga: koto-spruce-ayous-spruce-koto
Xiom Ignito: hinoki-energy/zeta carbon-kiri-energy/zeta carbon-hinoki
Xiom Jazz: hinoki-koto-ayous-koto-hinoki
Xiom Maximus: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba
Xiom Ovid = limba - limba - ayous - limba - limba
Xiom Stradivarius: koto-aramid carbon-ayous-kiri-ayous-aramid carbon-koto
[Edit] Xiom Hayabusa ZXi (new): Koto-Zephylium Carbon-Ayous-Kiri-Ayous-Zephylium Carbon-Koto


Yasaka Extra: anegre-limba-ayous-limba-anegre
Yasaka Extra Offensive: walnut-spruce-ayous-spruce-walnut
 
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says Spin and more spin.
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Yes, I actually put this in two other places on the forum, but thought it deserved to be a thread of its own. I know it helped me figure a lot out about how to find blades that really work for me. If I had known how to post a thread, I would have put this one under the equipment category. Now I know.
 
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I know what some of the wood types are like. A wood like limba is soft and slow. But a wood like ayous is light and fast. When you combine them, you have a soft outer ply for touch and short game, and a hard fast inner core which gives the blade the speed when you really dig into the ball. A slower top ply also means more dwell time and therefore, more spin. A wood like koto is fast and if that is the outer on a blade, there will not be as much dwell time but it will be a good blade for attacking. There are so many different kinds of wood. The important thing is that you get a blade that works for you.
 
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I know what some of the wood types are like. A wood like limba is soft and slow. But a wood like ayous is light and fast. When you combine them, you have a soft outer ply for touch and short game, and a hard fast inner core which gives the blade the speed when you really dig into the ball. A slower top ply also means more dwell time and therefore, more spin. A wood like koto is fast and if that is the outer on a blade, there will not be as much dwell time but it will be a good blade for attacking. There are so many different kinds of wood. The important thing is that you get a blade that works for you.

Thanks for the explanation Carl it's really helpful.
 
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Dear Carl,
I want to ask some questions :
What is this carbon on the names of the blades ?
Is all carbon the same ? Or is it different ?
Thx in advance :D

There are a lot of blades with plies of carbon in them. I think the way you would make carbon different is by changing the thickness of the ply or by adding things to the layer of carbon like aryalite or zylon. I am not really an expert on this stuff but I think it is like with plies of wood. A thicker wood ply is faster than a thinner ply of the same wood. Carbon is a very light, hard substance. So it is often used to make a racket lighter and faster at the same time. Blade manufacturers like to say it makes the blade have a larger sweet spot. That might be because the carbon ply is man made and very consistent. There are variables with wood. You can have two pieces of the same wood, they can be the same thickness and they will not be quite the same, or in one piece of wood there might be a little bit of a dead spot two inches away from a spot that is the opposite of dead.

I believe the reason that things like aryalite or zylon are added to some carbon plies is that it makes the ply fast as a result of the carbon, but the aryalite or zylon on top of it makes it soft on the surface until the ball sinks deeper and hits the carbon, so that the ball will stay on the face of the racket for longer dwell time. This means that you have more control of the ball and more time on the racket to spin the ball but you keep the speed you get from the carbon as well. A carbon ply would always be somewhere in the racket. It would never be an outer ply.

The reason I do not love blades that are made with carbon, at least the ones I have felt, is that, the hardness of the carbon makes it harder for you to feel the ball while it is on the rubber. Even with blades like the Timo Boll ALC or Timo Boll ZLC (I have tried both) you do not feel the ball on the racket as well as with an all wood blade. Those blades (like Timo Boll Spirit as well) are amazing and I have never felt a carbon blade that is as good as some of those new technology blades that Butterfly is making. But, even though you have a ton of dwell time, a lot of control and they are pretty fast--an ideal speed for a blade--I still would rather all wood for myself because I can feel what I am doing with the ball a little better. I also like the idea of paying $30-$50 US for a blade rather than $100-$250. :)

But in playing with a setup, the most important thing is that it works for your game. The best way to find that out is to hit with as many different rackets as you can. I ask people I play with if I can feel their setup on a regular basis. After hitting with hundreds of different rackets, I know what I like and what makes my game better. I also know that there are some blades which are fast that I will hit with and think I love them, but then I will play a game with them and discover that they are only good for offensive attacking and not for short game, which ends up meaning you cannot launch your attacks against a player who knows how to keep you from attacking. In other words, they are great for just hitting, but not for playing matches.
 
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thx for this information and share it with us :)
 
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In light of archive month and bringing back old posts I figured I would reawaken this old thread. Not too many people responded to it, but I know the information is really useful to help people get to know what plies are in the blade or blades they use or like. This is a good place to start in becoming more educated about buying a blade that is right for you.

For example: I know I like any and all blades that have limba as the outer ply and ayous as the inner plies. I also know that when Butterfly makes a blade with these woods, they make the outer ply of limba sort of thick and they usually use two plies of limba and only one ply of ayous in the center: for example: limba-limba-ayous-limba-limba. The Korbel and the Primorac have this composition but the plies are slightly different thicknesses so that the Korbel is faster. I am okay with blades like this but do not love them. Whereas, when Stiga makes a blade with limba and ayous the outer ply of limba is usually paper thin and the inner plies are the faster wood, ayous, and they are usually thick: for example: the Clipper is limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba and the energy wood is limba-ayous-ayous-ayous-limba: so one is 7 plies and one is 5, but they have a similar feeling.

The thinner outer ply makes it so you have touch for short game because limba is slow and holds the ball on the racket, but because it is so thin, when you hit harder it is easier for you to get to the inner plies of ayous that are springy and fast so you get this snap and a lot of speed with the extra dwell time.

I also like Hinoki blades because Hinoki is soft but somehow fast with a lot of dwell time. It is a springy wood that has a lot of gears. Blades with Koto as the outer ply give you a lot of speed and power and are also good for looping and short touch game (the Timo Boll blades almost all use Koto as the outer ply).

Hope this helps new readers try and sort out some of the woods that work best for them as I know it has helped me. :)
 
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I have one : Limba-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Limba, and one Limba-Koto-Balsa.

My style is spin-loop with chinese rubber (FH), and Ten05 (BH), which one is best suited ?

Thanks
 
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I have one : Limba-Ayous-Ayous-Ayous-Limba, and one Limba-Koto-Balsa.

My style is spin-loop with chinese rubber (FH), and Ten05 (BH), which one is best suited ?

Thanks

I think the limba-ayous blade might be better for looping. But it really also depends on the feeling you have with different kinds of wood. So, one of those blades might feel better than the other and then you should go with that.
 
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