Does it really matter what paddle to use?

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Does it really matter what blade/rubbers to use? Is there a proper combo? Does it really matter or with proper practice is any combo ok?
You have to look at how you win and defend points and then choose from there. But every equipment makes some things easier and some things harder for you. Faster blade might give you more speed with shorter strokes, but quick rebound might mean less contact time so you need more precision. Some blades have the feeling of being springy, so you feel you are holding the ball more with a trampoline effect and still get good rebound but this might affect the ability to smash precisely because the springy feeling might not be direct. But someone may have a mental model that smashes better with the trampoline effect. I like to topspin almost exclusively so I use sticky rubber on both sides. But someone who punches more may prefer non-sticky rubber on backhand to get speed. But someone may also like sticky rubber for flat hitting because it holds the ball longer and makes them more consistent.

So to answer your question: is equipment the biggest thing that will drive your overall level? No. If you train long enough with anything that suits your overall game, your level should be reasonable no matter what you use. Most people who seriously want to improve are looking for improvements that aren't primarily driven by equipment at the level we play at.

Can equipment improve your overall level: yes, it can, because once you have trained, some things match your game and playing style more and using those things can make you more accurate under pressure in specific key points. Moreover, enjoying what you use to play will encourage you to train more, but over time, your brain will become bored with anything, so one should be careful not to think novelty means you are really better.

Equipment that is too fast or too slow can hurt your game, depending on how you win points.
 
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Yes.

It matters enormously.

If you learn with equipment that is too fast, you never actually learn to play the game properly. Ditto if your playing rubbers are not insensitive to incoming spin.

All you'll get from too-fast equipment in the beginning, is a bunch of bad habits that can in some cases last your entire life.
As a rule of thumb, I recommend people start start with a good, cheap, all-round blade (low to mid speed, but very good control), and then team it with some slightly-slower-than-average, all-round rubber on both sides, that can still however create good levels of spin. (eg: Yasaka Mark V with 1.5mm sponge).

At the start, everything must be about control, control, control.

Once you have the basic fundamentals down, then you can look at going faster... doing so beforehand is just setting yourself up for failure later on.

Good luck :)
 
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I mostly agree with other people in this thread. My controversial opinion is that thin 7 ply + semi-worn MXP/ELP combo is fine for people that are being actively coached.
I think anything is fine as long as you train over time to use it and there is a player using it at the level you aspire to play at (so that you aren't taking a lot of risk). The problem is developing control while playing competitive matches to win points, and that is much harder if you don't want to go slowly. if someone is willing to work hard on training a wide range of stroke speeds, anything is possible if you put in the hours.

 
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Does it really matter what blade/rubbers to use? Is there a proper combo? Does it really matter or with proper practice is any combo ok?
Yes! I have bought a few paddles and I made sure many were very different.
I have my Firewall Plus that doesn't flex and is made of springy Balsa wood. It is good for blocking and hitting and not that good for looping unless I brush the ball more.
I have a TBS and TB ALC. These are typical paddles that are good for all round play.
I have two Samsonov Alphas, They are 5 ply and flex a little for looping. They are all wood and good for close to the table play. When I put Baracuda on them they are very good for making very spinny slow loops. I have had two Tony White Spot blades. They are terribly slow but probably OK for hardbat. I prefery my Toxic 5 for hard bat as it flexes more. Maybe two much.
I have play with someone else Joola R1*. It was way too fast. It is OK for hitting but that is it. I am sure I could loop with it given enough time with it but it would require accurate brushing.
I have a Donic Defplay. It is for chopping. It isn't fast. It does flex a bit.
 
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Yes! I have bought a few paddles and I made sure many were very different.
I have my Firewall Plus that doesn't flex and is made of springy Balsa wood. It is good for blocking and hitting and not that good for looping unless I brush the ball more.
I have a TBS and TB ALC. These are typical paddles that are good for all round play.
I have two Samsonov Alphas, They are 5 ply and flex a little for looping. They are all wood and good for close to the table play. When I put Baracuda on them they are very good for making very spinny slow loops. I have had two Tony White Spot blades. They are terribly slow but probably OK for hardbat. I prefery my Toxic 5 for hard bat as it flexes more. Maybe two much.
I have play with someone else Joola R1*. It was way too fast. It is OK for hitting but that is it. I am sure I could loop with it given enough time with it but it would require accurate brushing.
I have a Donic Defplay. It is for chopping. It isn't fast. It does flex a bit.
Ohh really ???????
Equipment does not have control. This is a lie.🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣 🤣🤣
 
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Does it really matter what blade/rubbers to use? Is there a proper combo? Does it really matter or with proper practice is any combo ok?
Of course it matters. If there is a proper combo for everyone, not sure. I'm sure there are perfect combinations, but it impossible to find them, because even if you find one you think is perfect, there always will be questions marks in you if there are betters (you lie if you don't).
There are several styles in table tennis and each style has their unique and most suitable setup. If you have them, it is good. If don't have a proper setup, it is a waste of time to practice with that, I believe. I've heard stories of players playing for years with the wrong blade or rubber and unable to develop techniques or play certain strokes.
You must be certain what style you are representing and what combos are the best for that particular style. Once you got it, it is a matter of practice how good you are or you will be.

That is my personal approach nevertheless. Good thing this is a topic in which there are no good or bad answers, only attitudes and opinions.
 
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Thanks everyone for the great replies to my question. Now, for a US 1300 level offensive player, do you think my combo of Cybershape Wood blade with Platinum M 2.0 (fh) and Platinum S 2.0 (bh) is ok? Or would recommend something else?
Show us how you play in the Safe Thread.
 
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Thanks everyone for the great replies to my question. Now, for a US 1300 level offensive player, do you think my combo of Cybershape Wood blade with Platinum M 2.0 (fh) and Platinum S 2.0 (bh) is ok? Or would recommend something else?
Do you like cybershape wood due to the model? Since your journey is still so long ahead, consider getting a more conventional blade. And regarding rubber, why would you bother getting stiga bro?
Rather than spending your money on unconventional blades, get something like butterfly innerforce blades. They are good for your growth and that is an investment.
Then you can get slower rubbers rather than stiga rubbers.
For the price of stiga you mentioned previously, I would go for nittaku fastarc G1 for FH and BH.
Fastarc is a very neutral rubber too. Great to begin with. They are also lightweight and costs half the Stiga DNA Plat.
So BTY Innerforce ALC (86gr - 88gr) paddle
Nittaku Fastarc G1 FH
Nittaku Fastarc G1 BH
 
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Do you like cybershape wood due to the model? Since your journey is still so long ahead, consider getting a more conventional blade. And regarding rubber, why would you bother getting stiga bro?
Rather than spending your money on unconventional blades, get something like butterfly innerforce blades. They are good for your growth and that is an investment.
Then you can get slower rubbers rather than stiga rubbers.
For the price of stiga you mentioned previously, I would go for nittaku fastarc G1 for FH and BH.
Fastarc is a very neutral rubber too. Great to begin with. They are also lightweight and costs half the Stiga DNA Plat.
So BTY Innerforce ALC (86gr - 88gr) paddle
Nittaku Fastarc G1 FH
Nittaku Fastarc G1 BH
Thanks for the recommendation. Funny, I have a Butterfly ALC.S blade with Rozena 2.1 on both sides. I never gave it a chance. Do you think Fastarc G1 isn't too fast for my level?
 
Thanks for the recommendation. Funny, I have a Butterfly ALC.S blade with Rozena 2.1 on both sides. I never gave it a chance. Do you think Fastarc G1 isn't too fast for my level?
I was about to recommend you to rozena but i think that is a backhand rubber. Fastarc is not that “fast” like other tensor rubbers such as DNA plat tho. And yet, ALCS you mean Super ALC?
I have that blade too and trust me that aint for new players. It gives good feedback but that is sure a fast blade. Innerforce ALC lets you get the woody feel until you actually penetrate thru the two outermost layers, hence it feels much more woody and controlled. If i were you, i would practice with the SALC rather than the cybershape wood.
 
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I was about to recommend you to rozena but i think that is a backhand rubber. Fastarc is not that “fast” like other tensor rubbers such as DNA plat tho. And yet, ALCS you mean Super ALC?
I have that blade too and trust me that aint for new players. It gives good feedback but that is sure a fast blade. Innerforce ALC lets you get the woody feel until you actually penetrate thru the two outermost layers, hence it feels much more woody and controlled. If i were you, i would practice with the SALC rather than the cybershape wood.
ALCS is the ALC with spruce middle layer between carbon and top, https://en.butterfly.tt/innerforce-layer-alc-s.html
 
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I was about to recommend you to rozena but i think that is a backhand rubber. Fastarc is not that “fast” like other tensor rubbers such as DNA plat tho. And yet, ALCS you mean Super ALC?
I have that blade too and trust me that aint for new players. It gives good feedback but that is sure a fast blade. Innerforce ALC lets you get the woody feel until you actually penetrate thru the two outermost layers, hence it feels much more woody and controlled. If i were you, i would practice with the SALC rather than the cybershape wood.
The Innerforce ALC.S is more spin oriented.
 
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Thanks for the recommendation. Funny, I have a Butterfly ALC.S blade with Rozena 2.1 on both sides. I never gave it a chance. Do you think Fastarc G1 isn't too fast for my level?
The ALCS blade is fine as is your current set up. G1 is a bit harder than optimal in my opinion, you need to swing hard to get the best out of it, though it blocks and flat hits well for an advanced rubber.

The problem when someone doesn't like equipment is rarely with the equipment unless your technique is mature. I know 2000+ level players who use Rozena on forehand, it is something you can change if you spin consistently harder than the rubber can take, and in my opinion, it is rare to do this and even better to be restrained by this for a few months when learning before trying to spin harder. Just play within the limit of the rubber, every rubber has limits somehow.
 
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Thanks for the recommendation. Funny, I have a Butterfly ALC.S blade with Rozena 2.1 on both sides. I never gave it a chance. Do you think Fastarc G1 isn't too fast for my level?
Fastarc G-1 is slower than DNA Platinum M BUT Fastarc G-1 rubber feels harder than 47'5 more like 50. Platinum M is also 47'5 but feels softer than Fastarc G-1. I have G-1 but I must say that Platinum M i superior and easier to use.
 
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Still very fast imo :)
No I have one too I would rate it off-. It’s only fast on hard hits. On loose hits it is really slow. My all+ Alser blade is faster.

Cheers
L-zr
 
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