Equipment weaknesses and how to exploit them

says I want to train...
There are some rubbers or blades that are strong in some aspects and weaker in others.
Every match I play I try to have a look at the equipment of my opponent.
From that I either draw some conclusions or just satisfy my curiosity.

And sometimes I try to use certain strategies or tactics based on what my opponent is able to do, based on his equipment.

Context:
Most people I play are not that high level players with good technique, footwork etc.

For example:

1.
My opponent is using Stiga Allround classic with some medium/soft hardness tensors.
That means his loops will most likely not be overly powerful, but he will be able to block and return a lot of my stronger balls on the table.

My adjustment:
I won't go for longer rallies, where I continously loop.
I'll aim for more 3rd Ball killer shots and try to end the point in less than 2 or 3 attacks.
I might occasionally let him attack in weaker spots and gain an advantage from there.


2.
My opponent is using 2x Tenergy on a faster blade (Off-/Off).
That means he could lack control and be more spin sensitive.
His loops and attacks could have more quality, but will also be more difficult for him to execute consistently.

My adjustment:
A lot of Serve variation and easy 3rd Ball attacks or aces.
I won't be afraid of my loops coming back to many times.
I'll gain advantages over the table and provoke errors.




What do you think?
Are you also doing this?
 
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While checking your opponent's equipment before the match is certainly worthwhile (see #2 in http://www.tabletenniscoaching.com/node/3584), you should always play the opponent in front of you and not his equipment. Anything else can cost you dearly ...
 
says I want to train...
While checking your opponent's equipment before the match is certainly worthwhile (see #2 in http://www.tabletenniscoaching.com/node/3584), you should always play the opponent in front of you and not his equipment. Anything else can cost you dearly ...
True.

Equipment check can sometimes help win 1 or 2 free points per set or catch them off guard.
 
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Not generally correct,
Once, I’ve thought same against a tenergy player, but he was pushing as much as he can, playing only for consistency without rush smash/loop once.

Also, on contrary many slower setup opponents were hitting with full power.

Above some level most ppl use similar equipments or doesn’t matter equipment at all.

Of course, pips, anti, def players are exceptions.
 
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Nah, for inverted you never know. It mostly depends on the player, and a lot of weaknesses have to be tested during matches.

Even for pips, there are a lot of different styles (even with the same setup) which all have different strengths and weaknesses.
 
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you should always play the opponent in front of you and not his equipment. Anything else can cost you dearly ...
+100

play the opponent, not the equipment.
need to learn to read the opponent and learn to read the ball
from there, either you are good enough or not to play the opponent.
if you can't read, then you are on the back foot.

the opponent could use entry level equipment and give the most spin while a noob will use the highest end equipment and generated little spin. So reading the ball is the most important.
 
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There are some rubbers or blades that are strong in some aspects and weaker in others.
Every match I play I try to have a look at the equipment of my opponent.
From that I either draw some conclusions or just satisfy my curiosity.

And sometimes I try to use certain strategies or tactics based on what my opponent is able to do, based on his equipment.

Context:
Most people I play are not that high level players with good technique, footwork etc.

For example:

1.
My opponent is using Stiga Allround classic with some medium/soft hardness tensors.
That means his loops will most likely not be overly powerful, but he will be able to block and return a lot of my stronger balls on the table.

My adjustment:
I won't go for longer rallies, where I continously loop.
I'll aim for more 3rd Ball killer shots and try to end the point in less than 2 or 3 attacks.
I might occasionally let him attack in weaker spots and gain an advantage from there.


2.
My opponent is using 2x Tenergy on a faster blade (Off-/Off).
That means he could lack control and be more spin sensitive.
His loops and attacks could have more quality, but will also be more difficult for him to execute consistently.

My adjustment:
A lot of Serve variation and easy 3rd Ball attacks or aces.
I won't be afraid of my loops coming back to many times.
I'll gain advantages over the table and provoke errors.




What do you think?
Are you also doing this?
You can try...but I think it sounds a lot better in theory than in reality. I think its hard to execute.

I think better to spend 80% of your thought to focus on playing your own game, and the 20% remaining you can think of opponent's weakness rather than equipment.
 
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You can try...but I think it sounds a lot better in theory than in reality. I think its hard to execute.

I think better to spend 80% of your thought to focus on playing your own game, and the 20% remaining you can think of opponent's weakness rather than equipment.
I second that.

And just because someone is using Tenergy, it does not mean their shots are of higher quality. In fact many noobies just use Tenergy to get a fast shot in (but not spinny at all) and block those shots are not that difficult.
 
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I think equipment can give a hint, but you really need to see what the opponent does and adjust from there. Sometimes you can be overly theorizing about how to play and this will make you forget the important basics.

If I see someone with fast equipment on my level, then I will be more passive and control the ball close to the net to make sure I dont give a ball for an easy opener. If I see someone with equipment with a lot of control (less spin sensitive) then I suppose I will try to be more direct and powerful (less spin oriented). However, it can go ever which way, since high throw bouncy rubbers can mean that my opponent has learned to flip short balls very good. You really need to see what the opponent does with the equipment.
 
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1350 german TTR player here.

I win most games using serve tactics since I believe I can consistently serve multiple levels above my rating. It is usually in the open game where I lose points.

Depending on the opponent I will serve either passively/safe to prevent direct attacks or aggressively to force poor returns I can easily attack.

Passive/safe/older/inexperienced opponents:
Mainly serve side/side-topspin, long fast topspin, wide angles. Returns are usually long and slow, easy to attack 3rd ball. Serve short to vary.

Attacking/aggressive/strong/young opponents:
Mainly serve short and half-long. Vary between strong backspin and empty serves. Attack empty serve returns.

I think there is some correlation between the playing styles I described and the type of equipment used. Players with fast carbon blades and high catapult rubbers like Tenergy tend to have more problem with the short game, wheras allwood blades with older rubbers tend to produce less offensive quality.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.
 
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1350 german TTR player here.

I win most games using serve tactics since I believe I can consistently serve multiple levels above my rating. It is usually in the open game where I lose points.

Depending on the opponent I will serve either passively/safe to prevent direct attacks or aggressively to force poor returns I can easily attack.

Passive/safe/older/inexperienced opponents:
Mainly serve side/side-topspin, long fast topspin, wide angles. Returns are usually long and slow, easy to attack 3rd ball. Serve short to vary.

Attacking/aggressive/strong/young opponents:
Mainly serve short and half-long. Vary between strong backspin and empty serves. Attack empty serve returns.

I think there is some correlation between the playing styles I described and the type of equipment used. Players with fast carbon blades and high catapult rubbers like Tenergy tend to have more problem with the short game, wheras allwood blades with older rubbers tend to produce less offensive quality.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.
https://www.samsondubina.com/coaching/modern-table-tennis-styles
 
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I think there is some correlation between the playing styles I described and the type of equipment used. Players with fast carbon blades and high catapult rubbers like Tenergy tend to have more problem with the short game, wheras allwood blades with older rubbers tend to produce less offensive quality.

I'd like to hear your thoughts on this.
Hmmm, not always the case honestly. Me, for example. Ive got quite a strong forehand, using a 5ply wood blade with a 729 Battle III on the FH. I can either kill the ball directly, or play it with an immense ammount of spin. Its the rallies that trouble me. I usually loose such points, as I just dont have enough speed, agility and technique to play such a style.
 
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Aim for the hole, easy !
 
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