SOLD: Excellent condition Nittaku Acoustic Carbon

[Noopster25]

I have a Nittaku Acoustic Carbon in excellent condition for sale for USD 80 including US shipping. US buyers only.

 

[mOUs3y]

Hi Noopster! Are you still in your quest to find your perfect paddle? I think I saw some of your posts as I am currently on that journey and doing lots of comparisons - not only for me but for my wife. Anyways, is this the regular flared handle or the sg flared? I was looking into getting the 5-ply Acoustic in the future but stumbled upon your carbon (maybe it’s meant to be!) By the way, did you sell your Primorac as well?

 

[turbozed]

Hi Noopster! Are you still in your quest to find your perfect paddle? I think I saw some of your posts as I am currently on that journey and doing lots of comparisons - not only for me but for my wife. Anyways, is this the regular flared handle or the sg flared? I was looking into getting the 5-ply Acoustic in the future but stumbled upon your carbon (maybe it’s meant to be!) By the way, did you sell your Primorac as well?

From what I've gathered from reading people's reviews, the outer layer carbon Acoustic feels and plays different enough from the all-wood that the biggest similarity between the two is in name rather than function. In other words, if you were considering the 5-ply, the Acoustic Carbon is probably in a different category of blade than your original criteria.

Also, as far as I'm aware, the SG special handle is only available for the 5-ply Acoustic. The carbon versions have the LG handle available, but that would be indicated on the blade face as well.

 

[Noopster25]

Hi Noopster! Are you still in your quest to find your perfect paddle? I think I saw some of your posts as I am currently on that journey and doing lots of comparisons - not only for me but for my wife. Anyways, is this the regular flared handle or the sg flared? I was looking into getting the 5-ply Acoustic in the future but stumbled upon your carbon (maybe it’s meant to be!) By the way, did you sell your Primorac as well?

I have both the Acoustic and the Acoustic Carbon. While Acoustic Carbon feels different from the all wood Acoustic, it still feels much woody as compared to other outer carbon ALC blades. Paired with the right rubbers, Acoustic carbon is an amazing offensive blade. My Acoustic Carbon is a flared handle. I used the blade for like 3-4 times. The forehand combination with Stiga Dragon Grip (Stiga’s tacky rubber version) was just amazing and the looping was very skinny and effortless.

The reason for selling - in trying out different blades and combinations (EJing ) I found the inner ZLC better suited to my game. SO I ended up with Apolonia and ZLX in that I am trying out and playing with now. The Primorac is gone a long time back.

 

[Noopster25]

From what I've gathered from reading people's reviews, the outer layer carbon Acoustic feels and plays different enough from the all-wood that the biggest similarity between the two is in name rather than function. In other words, if you were considering the 5-ply, the Acoustic Carbon is probably in a different category of blade than your original criteria.

Also, as far as I'm aware, the SG special handle is only available for the 5-ply Acoustic. The carbon versions have the LG handle available, but that would be indicated on the blade face as well.

Agree that the Acoustic Carbon played a lot differently than the all wood Acoustic. I have both. However I felt the Acoustic Carbon more woody than other ALC blades. When playing with tacky rubber (Dragon Grip, Battle II; haven’t played with Hurricane) the looping and spin is just amazing.
While the all wood Acoustic is an amazing blade at times when playing against better opponents, I found the blade wanting for a little bit more finishing power. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a reasonable speed blade, but NAC is better to finish points.

 

[mOUs3y]

Agree that the Acoustic Carbon played a lot differently than the all wood Acoustic. I have both. However I felt the Acoustic Carbon more woody than other ALC blades. When playing with tacky rubber (Dragon Grip, Battle II; haven’t played with Hurricane) the looping and spin is just amazing.
While the all wood Acoustic is an amazing blade at times when playing against better opponents, I found the blade wanting for a little bit more finishing power. Don’t get me wrong, it’s a reasonable speed blade, but NAC is better to finish points.

Ahh I see now. I used to play a lot with the club during college and haven’t played in a long time. I remember the fuss when the 40mm ball was being introduced around 2002-2003 with us and it changed the game. Then I realized it changed again 2014 with plastic balls. So now I am completely lost with what to try haha. Ok i’ll buy your Carbon Acoustic and try it out. My plan before seeing your post was to buy my wife a Primorac with Rosena 2.1 on both sides to learn while making me a Petr Kobel with Ten 05 hard FH and Ten 05 BH both 2.1. I never had a 5ply and was thinking it would help me get a feel of the ball as I practiced with her. But the Acoustic Carbon is a step up from the Petr Kobel right? Or maybe get her the Kobel instead of the Primorac?

 

[Noopster25]

Ahh I see now. I used to play a lot with the club during college and haven’t played in a long time. I remember the fuss when the 40mm ball was being introduced around 2002-2003 with us and it changed the game. Then I realized it changed again 2014 with plastic balls. So now I am completely lost with what to try haha. Ok i’ll buy your Carbon Acoustic and try it out. My plan before seeing your post was to buy my wife a Primorac with Rosena 2.1 on both sides to learn while making me a Petr Kobel with Ten 05 hard FH and Ten 05 BH both 2.1. I never had a 5ply and was thinking it would help me get a feel of the ball as I practiced with her. But the Acoustic Carbon is a step up from the Petr Kobel right? Or maybe get her the Kobel instead of the Primorac?

NAC (Nittaku Acoustic Carbon) would certainly be a step up from Korbel. It would be faster but not drastically faster, so easier to get used to and control. I have played with Tenergy 05 on this blade and it works great. Have never used Tenergy 05 Hard, so can’t comment on that.
Primorac with Rozena is a greater combination to learn and improve the technique. If Korbel, you can get 1.9 Rozena to balance out the speed.

 

[mOUs3y]

From what I've gathered from reading people's reviews, the outer layer carbon Acoustic feels and plays different enough from the all-wood that the biggest similarity between the two is in name rather than function. In other words, if you were considering the 5-ply, the Acoustic Carbon is probably in a different category of blade than your original criteria.

Also, as far as I'm aware, the SG special handle is only available for the 5-ply Acoustic. The carbon versions have the LG handle available, but that would be indicated on the blade face as well.

Hi Turbozed I was half-awake and totally missed your post! Yeah I was thinking that too. Since I was buying two and saw the price of the Carbon AC, I was thinking why buy Primorac and Petr Kobel. If the next progression from 5 ply is this one for sale, I was thinking of jumping the gun because it’s so similar in price to the Kobel. I would then just use my wife’s paddle if i wanted to get the muscle training from the 5 ply. I really wasn’t even considering the Acoustic Carbon but only the regular Acoustic but I read an article saying it was lacking speed with the new plastic ball and to look at the Acoustic Carbon instead.

 

[turbozed]

Hi Turbozed I was half-awake and totally missed your post! Yeah I was thinking that too. Since I was buying two and saw the price of the Carbon AC, I was thinking why buy Primorac and Petr Kobel. If the next progression from 5 ply is this one for sale, I was thinking of jumping the gun because it’s so similar in price to the Kobel. I would then just use my wife’s paddle if i wanted to get the muscle training from the 5 ply. I really wasn’t even considering the Acoustic Carbon but only the regular Acoustic but I read an article saying it was lacking speed with the new plastic ball and to look at the Acoustic Carbon instead.

If you want a pretty detailed look at some 5-plys that include Korbel and Acoustic, here is some good reading: https://ttgearlab.com/2017/10/16/classic-5-ply-wood-blades-comparison/

Maybe this will help your purchasing decision on your wife's blade, if you are determined to get a carbon blade. $80 is a great price anyway for an Acoustic carbon even if you decide to shelf it for being too fast and preferring the 5-ply when starting again.

 

[Noopster25]

The blade is sold and not available anymore. Thanks.

 

[mOUs3y]

If you want a pretty detailed look at some 5-plys that include Korbel and Acoustic, here is some good reading: https://ttgearlab.com/2017/10/16/classic-5-ply-wood-blades-comparison/

Maybe this will help your purchasing decision on your wife's blade, if you are determined to get a carbon blade. $80 is a great price anyway for an Acoustic carbon even if you decide to shelf it for being too fast and preferring the 5-ply when starting again.

Thanks for that link it was very insightful. Holy cow the science behind all of it! Well looks like the blade sold during this conversation - maybe it wasn't meant to be That said, would the fastare g-1 work better with the NAC and/or the NA vs using T05 rubber or either would work?

Well since the Acoustic Carbon sold what you think my progression should be since I no longer will have the Carbon:

Primorac > Petr Kobel > Acoustic > Acoustic Carbon or should I skip the 5-ply Acoustic and go straight to the Acoustic Carbon after time with the 5-ply Primorac/Kobel?

Edit:
After looking through the information on that link again, it looks like this would be the progression:
Primorac > Acoustic > Petr Kobel >NAC

I guess I'll go for the Acoustic. Have either of you tried the different handles? Looks like it's near impossible to find the SG handle so it's either FL or Large FL for me. How big of a hand do I need to have to go for the large FL or is it mostly if I'm going to use heavier rubber that I would need to go large?

And I read something about the Acoustic having a chance of splintering when changing rubber and they you recommend sealing it so it doesn't happen. Ever hear about that?

 

[turbozed]

Thanks for that link it was very insightful. Holy cow the science behind all of it! Well looks like the blade sold during this conversation - maybe it wasn't meant to be That said, would the fastare g-1 work better with the NAC and/or the NA vs using T05 rubber or either would work?

Well since the Acoustic Carbon sold what you think my progression should be since I no longer will have the Carbon:

Primorac > Petr Kobel > Acoustic > Acoustic Carbon or should I skip the 5-ply Acoustic and go straight to the Acoustic Carbon after time with the 5-ply Primorac/Kobel?

Edit:
After looking through the information on that link again, it looks like this would be the progression:
Primorac > Acoustic > Petr Kobel >NAC

I guess I'll go for the Acoustic. Have either of you tried the different handles? Looks like it's near impossible to find the SG handle so it's either FL or Large FL for me. How big of a hand do I need to have to go for the large FL or is it mostly if I'm going to use heavier rubber that I would need to go large?

And I read something about the Acoustic having a chance of splintering when changing rubber and they you recommend sealing it so it doesn't happen. Ever hear about that?

I'll try to answer all your questions in order since you've got quite a few in your post. I'm not an equipment expert compared to a lot of these guys here. But, I was in your position about 6 months ago when I bought my Acoustic, and have read a lot about equipment since then, bought a couple more, and played with people's blades at different clubs.

First off, sorry to hear that you were too late on the Acoustic Carbon. I thought for sure it was you who bought it.

Second, G-1 and T05 are completely different rubbers. I played with T05 just yesterday on a Fan Zhendong ALC and the slightest touch sent the ball flying. It generates a huge amount of speed and bounce with the smallest movements. I hated it immediately.

I like to have way more control, and to provide my own power in a linear fashion. If the ball goes fast, it's because I've hit the thing hard and put my whole body into it. What I put in is what I get. I don't want my racket to be some on/off switch the blasts a ball into the moon.

G-1 is more suited to what I want out of a rubber. But it's a $40+ rubber and I play with a $8 rubber currently. That's by choice and not by budget. I can afford to buy the most expensive blades with the most expensive rubbers without any issue. However, I'm still a beginner and have a more athletic style I want to develop in mind that forces me to get to the ball early and set up for more powerful full body strokes. I also realize that, at my level, high level rubbers are counterproductive to my goals and are therefore a waste of money.

My suggestion to you is go with some cheaper rubbers to start with. There are great rubbers that can be bought for $15-$25 that will be fine for the vast majority of players (and will be enough for nearly all beginners). Play with this long enough where you know what you like and don't like about a rubber for both your FH and BH. Only then consider upgrading to more expensive rubber.

I expect to play with all wood blades and slower Chinese rubbers. When I've gotten every ball on the table consistently and want more speed/power. I'll upgrade to slightly bouncier rubbers and maybe boosted versions of them). I don't expect to play with composite blades anytime soon.

I wouldn't worry about your 'blade' progression at all at this point when you're picking up your first one. Unless you were a beast in college and you regain your skills at lightning speed, then any of those all-wood blades will be playable and good for developing for years. By that point you will know what you want your play style to be and what you want out of a setup. Some people stay with all-wood despite playing for over a decade. There's no progression plan that is one-size-fits-all.

There was a poll on this site about what all-wood blade would members choose for developing and the Acoustic came out on top, with Korbel coming in second. Here is the link: https://strawpoll.com/polls/B2ZB3PxGByJ/results

So you are probably not going to go wrong choosing an Acoustic and using that for a while. The only caveat is that the blade handle has to be comfortable for you. Acoustic regular is very thin and not suited for large hands. Acoustic LG some people love and some people think is too big. There's an Acoustic SG which is hard to find. I'd see if I could get them all in your hands to feel before making a decision. If you don't have access to a TT store, then go to your local TT club and feel the grip of various handles of different blades. Find one you like the most. From there maybe someone on forums can infer which handle will suit you.

 

[NextLevel]

I'll try to answer all your questions in order since you've got quite a few in your post. I'm not an equipment expert compared to a lot of these guys here. But, I was in your position about 6 months ago when I bought my Acoustic, and have read a lot about equipment since then, bought a couple more, and played with people's blades at different clubs.

First off, sorry to hear that you were too late on the Acoustic Carbon. I thought for sure it was you who bought it.

Second, G-1 and T05 are completely different rubbers. I played with T05 just yesterday on a Fan Zhendong ALC and the slightest touch sent the ball flying. It generates a huge amount of speed and bounce with the smallest movements. I hated it immediately.

I like to have way more control, and to provide my own power in a linear fashion. If the ball goes fast, it's because I've hit the thing hard and put my whole body into it. What I put in is what I get. I don't want my racket to be some on/off switch the blasts a ball into the moon.

G-1 is more suited to what I want out of a rubber. But it's a $40+ rubber and I play with a $8 rubber currently. That's by choice and not by budget. I can afford to buy the most expensive blades with the most expensive rubbers without any issue. However, I'm still a beginner and have a more athletic style I want to develop in mind that forces me to get to the ball early and set up for more powerful full body strokes. I also realize that, at my level, high level rubbers are counterproductive to my goals and are therefore a waste of money.

My suggestion to you is go with some cheaper rubbers to start with. There are great rubbers that can be bought for $15-$25 that will be fine for the vast majority of players (and will be enough for nearly all beginners). Play with this long enough where you know what you like and don't like about a rubber for both your FH and BH. Only then consider upgrading to more expensive rubber.

I expect to play with all wood blades and slower Chinese rubbers. When I've gotten every ball on the table consistently and want more speed/power. I'll upgrade to slightly bouncier rubbers and maybe boosted versions of them). I don't expect to play with composite blades anytime soon.

I wouldn't worry about your 'blade' progression at all at this point when you're picking up your first one. Unless you were a beast in college and you regain your skills at lightning speed, then any of those all-wood blades will be playable and good for developing for years. By that point you will know what you want your play style to be and what you want out of a setup. Some people stay with all-wood despite playing for over a decade. There's no progression plan that is one-size-fits-all.

There was a poll on this site about what all-wood blade would members choose for developing and the Acoustic came out on top, with Korbel coming in second. Here is the link: https://strawpoll.com/polls/B2ZB3PxGByJ/results

So you are probably not going to go wrong choosing an Acoustic and using that for a while. The only caveat is that the blade handle has to be comfortable for you. Acoustic regular is very thin and not suited for large hands. Acoustic LG some people love and some people think is too big. There's an Acoustic SG which is hard to find. I'd see if I could get them all in your hands to feel before making a decision. If you don't have access to a TT store, then go to your local TT club and feel the grip of various handles of different blades. Find one you like the most. From there maybe someone on forums can infer which handle will suit you.

You can get G1 from tt11 with the four for 3 deal usually coming close to $30 per sheet. That was probably the basis of your calculation anyways, but just wanted to point that out.

 

[turbozed]

You can get G1 from tt11 with the four for 3 deal usually coming close to $30 per sheet. That was probably the basis of your calculation anyways, but just wanted to point that out.

Thanks for the heads-up. G-1 is on the top of my list of non-Chinese FH rubber to try in the future. I live in Vietnam and luckily Nittaku products retail for 15-25% less than everywhere else (was able to pick up my Acoustic here for $120 for example). G-1 retail is $35.

From what I gather, Nittaku's strategy is to make things slightly cheaper here to account for Vietnamese income and Butterfly's popularity.

 

[mOUs3y]

I'll try to answer all your questions in order since you've got quite a few in your post. I'm not an equipment expert compared to a lot of these guys here. But, I was in your position about 6 months ago when I bought my Acoustic, and have read a lot about equipment since then, bought a couple more, and played with people's blades at different clubs.

First off, sorry to hear that you were too late on the Acoustic Carbon. I thought for sure it was you who bought it.

Second, G-1 and T05 are completely different rubbers. I played with T05 just yesterday on a Fan Zhendong ALC and the slightest touch sent the ball flying. It generates a huge amount of speed and bounce with the smallest movements. I hated it immediately.

I like to have way more control, and to provide my own power in a linear fashion. If the ball goes fast, it's because I've hit the thing hard and put my whole body into it. What I put in is what I get. I don't want my racket to be some on/off switch the blasts a ball into the moon.

G-1 is more suited to what I want out of a rubber. But it's a $40+ rubber and I play with a $8 rubber currently. That's by choice and not by budget. I can afford to buy the most expensive blades with the most expensive rubbers without any issue. However, I'm still a beginner and have a more athletic style I want to develop in mind that forces me to get to the ball early and set up for more powerful full body strokes. I also realize that, at my level, high level rubbers are counterproductive to my goals and are therefore a waste of money.

My suggestion to you is go with some cheaper rubbers to start with. There are great rubbers that can be bought for $15-$25 that will be fine for the vast majority of players (and will be enough for nearly all beginners). Play with this long enough where you know what you like and don't like about a rubber for both your FH and BH. Only then consider upgrading to more expensive rubber.

I expect to play with all wood blades and slower Chinese rubbers. When I've gotten every ball on the table consistently and want more speed/power. I'll upgrade to slightly bouncier rubbers and maybe boosted versions of them). I don't expect to play with composite blades anytime soon.

I wouldn't worry about your 'blade' progression at all at this point when you're picking up your first one. Unless you were a beast in college and you regain your skills at lightning speed, then any of those all-wood blades will be playable and good for developing for years. By that point you will know what you want your play style to be and what you want out of a setup. Some people stay with all-wood despite playing for over a decade. There's no progression plan that is one-size-fits-all.

There was a poll on this site about what all-wood blade would members choose for developing and the Acoustic came out on top, with Korbel coming in second. Here is the link: https://strawpoll.com/polls/B2ZB3PxGByJ/results

So you are probably not going to go wrong choosing an Acoustic and using that for a while. The only caveat is that the blade handle has to be comfortable for you. Acoustic regular is very thin and not suited for large hands. Acoustic LG some people love and some people think is too big. There's an Acoustic SG which is hard to find. I'd see if I could get them all in your hands to feel before making a decision. If you don't have access to a TT store, then go to your local TT club and feel the grip of various handles of different blades. Find one you like the most. From there maybe someone on forums can infer which handle will suit you.

Really thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions. You know, I could never find the words to describe how I play and how I like to play. The way you described your play style at least with body movement and effort is exactly what I do. I always wondered why I'm so soaked with sweat and my opponents are barely sweating mind you we are just rallying back and forth but I'm twisting my entire body and doing full strokes hard I could probably break the paddle if it hit my head.

I was trying to read all the posts here to get more information and peoples thoughts on everything; however, I think all it did was make me "think" too much about things and I should just go and practice and my questions will naturally be answered. Before I do that I have three last questions

1. Should I even care about the different weights of an Acoustic 5-ply or just take whatever I get and pick the rubbers I want?
2. Should I lacquer this Acoustic? I remember reading something about splintering. I guess the glue changed since 2005.
3. Any experience or thoughts between Butterfly Lezoline Rifones vs Mach?

Again thank you and to everyone who posted here!

P.S. - I stopped myself from asking about side tape hahahaha.

 

[turbozed]

Really thank you for taking the time to answer all my questions. You know, I could never find the words to describe how I play and how I like to play. The way you described your play style at least with body movement and effort is exactly what I do. I always wondered why I'm so soaked with sweat and my opponents are barely sweating mind you we are just rallying back and forth but I'm twisting my entire body and doing full strokes hard I could probably break the paddle if it hit my head.

I was trying to read all the posts here to get more information and peoples thoughts on everything; however, I think all it did was make me "think" too much about things and I should just go and practice and my questions will naturally be answered. Before I do that I have three last questions

1. Should I even care about the different weights of an Acoustic 5-ply or just take whatever I get and pick the rubbers I want?
2. Should I lacquer this Acoustic? I remember reading something about splintering. I guess the glue changed since 2005.
3. Any experience or thoughts between Butterfly Lezoline Rifones vs Mach?

Again thank you and to everyone who posted here!

P.S. - I stopped myself from asking about side tape hahahaha.

You should specify a desired weight for your blade especially if you're paying around $150 for it. You may get some outlier thats too heavy or too light for your taste. I got a 78g Acoustic that I wish was heavier (I ended up putting lead tape around the edge to get a bit more stability).

If I had to do it again I'd ask for one between 83g and 85g.

If you buy from a reputable shop like tt11.com then they offer blade sealing. I've not heard of splintering problems with the Acoustic but one thin layer is probably a good idea anyway.

I only have experience with Mizuno shoes because they offer wider foot models. They also look much better imo.