FS: SDC Blades

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I'm selling some of my personal blades, along with some experiments and prototypes. They are all in good condition, some might have minor dings but that is stated in the description.


#157 - Composite: 6 wood + 3 - Off-

This one was the prototype for my asymmetric handle.

Composition: Ako / Glassfiber / Maple / Ayous / Aramid / Ayous / Maple / Glassfiber / Ako
Weight: 86.7g
Thickness: 5.8mm
Handle: FL/AN (25x100x32)
Head size: 158x149mm
Freq.: 1290Hz
Balance: 3.1cm (Med)
Condition: Used

Price: 30€ plus shipping

157%201%20jpg.jpeg


More Pics:
https://i.ibb.co/RBj5Lss/157-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/G9wjXSb/157-3.jpg

#338 - Composite: 5 wood + 2 Aramid - Off-/Off

The structure on this one is a bit different than usual, the outer and medial plies are vertical, while the core is horizontal. This makes the blade stiffer, but with a softer feel.

Composition: Framiré / Aramid / Spruce / Kiri / Spruce / Aramid / Framiré
Weight: 86.5g
Thickness: 5.9mm
Handle: ST (23x102x29)
Head size: 158x151mm
Freq.: 1400Hz
Balance: 2.6cm (Low)
Condition: Refurbished

Price: 40€ plus shipping

338%201%20jpg.jpeg


More Pics:
https://i.ibb.co/Xt0x6nJ/338-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/QvSRsfp/338-3.jpg

#360 - Composite: 5 wood + 2 ALC - Off-

There is really not much to say about this one, it's a inner fiber blade, not particularly fast but not slow either. It has a nice feeling with just the right amount of vibration (for me at least). I've used it a couple of times before getting injured, but since I'm not playing it doesn't make sense to keep it. It has been refurbished so it's as good as new.

Composition: Limba / Ayous / ALC / Ayous / ALC / Ayous / Limba
Weight: 90.8g
Thickness: 6.05mm
Handle: ST (23 x 101 x 28.5)
Head size: 157x150mm
Freq.: 1290Hz
Balance: 2.6cm (Low)
Condition: Refurbished

Price: 60€ plus shipping

360%201%20jpg.jpeg


More pics:
https://i.ibb.co/dWM6x6L/360-2.jpg
https://i.ibb.co/kJxdbB2/360-3.jpg
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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7.


My first ALC blade.


Composition: Maple/ALC/Beech/Balsa/Beech/ALC/Maple - 84.4g - 6.0mm - 1470 Hz
Head size: 156x149 mm
Speed: Off > Light, hard and fast
Price: 30€ plus shipping

View attachment 20795

How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?
 
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It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.

How was the process of making the blue and black colored parts of the handle? Easy? Tricky? Is it just blue and black colored stain?
 
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says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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It's a tricky process. Blue parts are stained, black part is a different material. I have to glue the parts to make the blanks, shape them, get them on the blade to do the fine adjustments, remove them, stain and seal and finally glue them on the blade.

You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.
 
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I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

You seal the handle? Doesn't that make it slippery?

I had a friend who used to seal the handles of his rackets. I really did not like the way that felt.
 
says Spin and more spin.
says Spin and more spin.
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Dec 2010
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Read 11 reviews
I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

Great explanation. Thank you.
 
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I don't seal all handles, just the ones that are stained. And I don't use varnish, that's what makes it slippery. There are several ways to do it, in this case I used true oil, and I can guarantee you that it feels very good in the hand. The downside is that it takes a long time to fully cure. The other way I do it is by using a water based lacquer applied in very thin layers, just a couple. Then I bring it down to a matte finish with a fine sanding mesh. I use this method in more porous woods so that the handle still maintains some texture. However, none of these have the feel of raw wood in the hand, and I don't recommend them to people who sweat a lot.

Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
Great blades by the way!
 
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Yes, you are right GinjaNinja. And I should have made myself clearer, it's not the product that makes it slippery, it's how you apply it. I like the water based stuff because I can apply it thinly and quickly, also it's safer to use and has no smell. I use Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer if you would like to give it a try.

Although the exact quantity of ingredients in Tru-oil are a 'guarded secret' it is thought to be a blend of PU varnish, Tung oil and mineral spirits, so not really a straight oil based finish such as Tung, Teak or BLO. For me, I've never found a well thinned and light coat of PU varnish to cause a handle to be slippery in any way. Perhaps it depends on how much you add, personally I don't like the water based varnishes. I can see Tru-oil working well but it's not cheap!
Great blades by the way!
 
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Yes, you are right GinjaNinja. And I should have made myself clearer, it's not the product that makes it slippery, it's how you apply it. I like the water based stuff because I can apply it thinly and quickly, also it's safer to use and has no smell. I use Chestnut Acrylic Lacquer if you would like to give it a try.

Thanks Hipnotic, I'm not really making blades at the moment as I've been too busy making guitars. This has led me to use shellac as my my main varnish, great stuff, much softer than PU varnish and gives a great finish when used to French polish. Also it's a great barrier against moisture. Not sure if it would for a TT blade though, I wonder if anyone has tried it?
 
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That's great GingaNinja. I have some shellac on the shelf for a long time but I never tried it. I on't think it would work in a TT blade but it would look great in a bat case.

Thanks Hipnotic, I'm not really making blades at the moment as I've been too busy making guitars. This has led me to use shellac as my my main varnish, great stuff, much softer than PU varnish and gives a great finish when used to French polish. Also it's a great barrier against moisture. Not sure if it would for a TT blade though, I wonder if anyone has tried it?
 
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