How do you block a flat fast drive from short pips?

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Today I played a penhold SP puncher. Whenever he punched a shot into my bh, the ball would just fall off my paddle and land on my side of the table or low into the net. There is just no topspin on the flat punches.

How do you block this shot? Whenever I tried adjusting my angle more upwards, it either isn't enough or its adjusted so much that it is essentially just a slow lob and easy to kill.

In a real match if you take several games to "adjust", the entire match is over by the time you can adjust.
 
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Today I played a penhold SP puncher. Whenever he punched a shot into my bh, the ball would just fall off my paddle and land on my side of the table or low into the net. There is just no topspin on the flat punches.

How do you block this shot? Whenever I tried adjusting my angle more upwards, it either isn't enough or its adjusted so much that it is essentially just a slow lob and easy to kill.

In a real match if you take several games to "adjust", the entire match is over by the time you can adjust.
I either open angle counter it back (which gives no spin), or open angle spin it back (but pretty much with the spin coming from the fingers). If you try doing nothing with the block it is indeed going down straight into the base of the net unfortunately.
 
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You can not passively block those balls. You need to be more active. Best bet is a short, flick like motion right off the bounce (mini bh topspin).
yes you can't block passively. you have to be active / counter them even if slightly.

tbh the best thing is to avoid giving those players the chance to take a full swing drive, especially if they can hit deep with low arc on your BH side, its usually a winner for them. Serving long with backspin to BH or half-long serve to FH is what i think works usally best against these type of players. On receiving side, if they serve with pips, assume there is not much backspin.

against SP, as for me, when it gets to rallies, i think its better to try to spin as much as possible all the balls, doesn't matter too much if the arc is high, and to go for a later timing, AFTER the top of the bounce. Most mistakes would come from trying to hit too early. Taking a half step back will help
 
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Also, Bh SP punch from penhold player is a lot different from bh SP from a shakehand player. Shakehand player's bh makes more spin, and it feels more normal.

Penhold feels flatter, and even with a bit of sidespin. It's very awkward and hard to deal with.
 
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I am one of those sp punchers. I get tired if I have to kill multiple times every point!
I agree with Jan, except a LOT of practise.
open the racket and relax.
Tip: if he forces you back think of your block as a close range lob. If goes to your FH try counter drive.
practice makes perfect.

good luck
 
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As you noted the ball has very little topspin on it -- so you have to create the spin yourself. But the ball is coming fast so you don't want to add much pace or the shot will be hard to control. This is hard to do if you're more comfortable blocking/driving rather than looping on the backhand (same idea applies to forehand as well).

The shot you need is one that makes a relatively large amount of topspin but adds little pace, i.e., a brushy loop type of shot. You also want to keep the motion very short/quick because the timing on the fast ball is difficult. The main things to think about are focusing closely on the location of the ball and timing a quick brush or flick to add spin. You can even practice this timing/feeling with "kick-kick" backhand rallies against other inverted players. It will be slightly different against a dead or knuckle ball than against topspin but once you have the feeling of using a short stroke to add spin you'll be able to adjust quickly.
 
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As you noted the ball has very little topspin on it -- so you have to create the spin yourself. But the ball is coming fast so you don't want to add much pace or the shot will be hard to control. This is hard to do if you're more comfortable blocking/driving rather than looping on the backhand (same idea applies to forehand as well).

The shot you need is one that makes a relatively large amount of topspin but adds little pace, i.e., a brushy loop type of shot. You also want to keep the motion very short/quick because the timing on the fast ball is difficult. The main things to think about are focusing closely on the location of the ball and timing a quick brush or flick to add spin. You can even practice this timing/feeling with "kick-kick" backhand rallies against other inverted players. It will be slightly different against a dead or knuckle ball than against topspin but once you have the feeling of using a short stroke to add spin you'll be able to adjust quickly.
I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
Hahah, well -- short pips have disadvantages too, which I'm sure you know. But aside from switching to short pips, it may help to view them as a worthy challenge which will push you to improve your game. That quick/active/brush loop is a very useful shot against all kinds of balls anyways. Long fast dead serves to BH for example, or even making really safe and effective counters off of regular loops.
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
But OTOH, you can shut down short-pips players if you know how to play them, say, serving really tight (just over the net) and short no-spin to their short-pips side, slip in a few backspin long serves for a change and watch them fume. If you manage to get past their 3rd or 5th shots (mostly the sinking shots) and overwhelm them with heavy loops, they become sitting ducks. Yes, it's easier said than done, but once you get the hang of it, you'll see the fun in playing combination players, which is unique to table tennis.
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
Ahem, we ALL have special equipment 😉
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
Yep it is unfair, and there is no reason why you shouldnt join them too LOL. You should watch this:


This is also what I plan to do with anti, I feel like I can easily transform the rally into whatever i want, be it topspin counter or dead balls or even sinking fast light underspin balls or heavy spin strong reversed underspin blocks.
 
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Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
Tensor
maybe you don't realise the hours of practice and physical training that a strong sp player does in order to be successful. And you also need to have a talent for hitting the ball with early timing. Punching and hitting flat is very risky because we don't give the ball a good arc of clearance over the net, and if the blocker/lobber (you for instance) has the skill to block and lob deep to the end line its very hard for us hitters especially if you change direction from bh to fh and vice versa.
I could tell a few. stories of sad defeats against lobbers and blockers, but I'll never complain, because his 100% did better than my 100% sometimes. Luckily I am an amateur so wins and losses are normal.
But the opportunity to learn, and the joy of a good fight. is always there.
 
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I think I understand what you are saying. But easier said than done.

Somehow it feels unfair. The SP player just blocks or punches a regular shot, not taking any particular risk and the special equipment creates a awkward and difficult shot.

On my end, I am forced to take risk by using a more difficult and advanced stroke just to respond/compensate to his equipment.

It's like I have to pay $1 to buy 75 cents.
The grippiness/tackiness of a pimples-in rubber is what reduces the risks of fault. Like the copolyesters allowed more spin in tennis and allowed fewer unforced errors. The SP player is the one taking the more risk of all players, because it does not have the spin to help him put the ball on the table.
 
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