How to Clean your Blades?

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Hi and Morning from Kuala Lumpur.

Took me awhile to decide on posting this because I wanted to make sure I googled for the info beforehand.

Its pretty hot and humid here in KL and as we play, we tend to sweat a lot.

I know how to clean the rubber, but failed to find any articles on cleaning the blade itself eg HANDLE

I wonder what s the best method to do so without getting to much water soaked into the wood.

What is the proper method to clean the blade dark, dirty, use marks?

Thank you in advance dear TTD Members for your valuable inputs.
 
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A little bit of water on a sponge will do it. If you want you can buy a cleaner liquid from a TT manufacturer but it’s not necessary, plain water will do.

This was actually about cleaning the rubber. Sorry I didn’t read your post properly. I never cleaned a handle actually. On untreated wood I always use linseed oil, the boiled type. But ALWAYS BEFORE I start to use it. Remember it takes anything from 1 week to 4 weeks to hardened and you don’t need a whole lot.


Cheers
L-zr
 
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If the dirt is ground in, there is only so much you can do. You can try bleach or scrub it with some other cleaner, rinse and wipe the handle dry but prevention is better than cure. Next time treat the handle with something like Watco's Danish Oil which is a boiled linseed oil with drying additives. This will keep sweat and dirt from soaking into the handle but yet retain the natural texture of the wood unlike polyurethane finishes which can make it feel like plastic.
 
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A little bit of water on a sponge will do it. If you want you can buy a cleaner liquid from a TT manufacturer but it’s not necessary, plain water will do.

This was actually about cleaning the rubber. Sorry I didn’t read your post properly. I never cleaned a handle actually. On untreated wood I always use linseed oil, the boiled type. But ALWAYS BEFORE I start to use it. Remember it takes anything from 1 week to 4 weeks to hardened and you don’t need a whole lot.


Cheers
L-zr

Hi. Thanks for the clarification.

Linseed oil. Ok. Do you apply it over the blade as well besides the handle? I assume its the same as 'sealing'? Or use lacquer for the blade and linseed oil for the handle?

 
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Hi. Thanks for the clarification.

Linseed oil. Ok. Do you apply it over the blade as well besides the handle? I assume its the same as 'sealing'? Or use lacquer for the blade and linseed oil for the handle?

One or two thin layers of Minwax Wipe On Poly for the blade face and Watco Danish Oil (or whatever BLO with drying additives available) for the handle. Do not mix the two. The wipe on poly is the right thing to use to seal blade faces, not the BLO.
 
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Hi. Thanks for the clarification.

Linseed oil. Ok. Do you apply it over the blade as well besides the handle? I assume it’s the same as 'sealing'? Or use lacquer for the blade and linseed oil for the handle?

No never on the blade only on the handle and only if it’s untreated. On the blade I always use a thin layer of good old varnish.

Cheers
L-zr

 
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Ok. Thank you for your inputs guys. Too late to do mitigation work on the present blades. I have two more blades. Will do the necessary to them
 
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Ok. Thank you for your inputs guys. Too late to do mitigation work on the present blades. I have two more blades. Will do the necessary to them

It's not too late do treat your current blade. Cosmetics aside, you can clean up the handle as best you can to remove old sweat, let it dry and then treat the handle with the Danish Oil so that it does not get sweat soaked anymore.

 
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I occasionally clean my handle with rubbing alcohol. Stay away from any plastics. It (the rubbing alcohol) can lift off some sweat/grime (depends how long it's been there). Again, this is what I do. Best part it doesn't contain harmful chemicals.
 
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Natural beeswax gives wood a nice sheen and protects it from perspiration to a certain extent; nevertheless, it has to be reapplied monthly or more often.
 
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