How to reglue a recently glued and boosted H3N on a new Blade

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Hey,

2 Weeks ago I boosted my ( at the time) new H3N BS.
After 3 days or so I glued it on my blade.
I used 2 layers of DHS No 15 on the rubber and 1 layer on the blade.
Now I just got a new Blade and I am not sure how I should reglue.

Should I peel the old glue off the rubber,
if yes do I boost again? ( How to boost this time around)

If I dont peel the old glue of How many layers do I put this time?

What other things to watch out for.

I dont wanna mess with the boost in any major way and I want to do it as cleanly as possible.

What do I do?
 
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no 15 glue comes off very easily.
have you removed the rubber yet?
if you have, I do believe, some of the glue is already off, so you will have no choice but to remove all the glue.

There will still be booster alive in the sponge.
What booster did you use?
 
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2 layers of glue after 2 layers of boost
okay, this is what I will do (not a fixed answer, since everyone will have they own ways)

2 weeks has passed, the booster would have started to evaporate and become weaker.

I think you can add 1 layer of glue, wait for it to dry, add 1 layer of booster, wait a day or so then add another layer of glue. Then add 1 layer of glue on your blade and you should be able to glue onto your blade.

If your rubber reverse domes (where top sheet is bigger than sponge), then use 2 layers of booster.

If your rubber still domes from the initial booster, your wait time after that 1 layer of booster could be a bit longer, just wait for it to settle before adding glue on. If the dome is pretty strong, add 2 layers of no 15 glue on before gluing.
 
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It might be off topic but,
I have a xiom omega VII Euro on backhand,
Is there any point in boosting that as well? Would it harm the rubber or do anything at All?
these rubbers are pre boosted already
Euro is pretty soft, I don't recommend boosting too soft of rubbers, as it will get softer.
If you do want to boost, 1 layer is enough. I would put 1 layer of glue on sponge first though.

or if the rubber is old and lost a bit of kick in it, then a layer can bring some life back. again, a layer of glue first
 
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Just to sum up and understand correctly,

- I remove the H3N from the blade
- I remove the glue from the rubber
- I put 1 layer glue on the rubber and let it dry
- I put 1 layer Booster on the rubber and let it sink in for the next day
- I put 1 layer glue on the rubber and 1 layer onthe blade
- Then stick them together and be happy with new carbon blade
 
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Just to sum up and understand correctly,

- I remove the H3N from the blade
- I remove the glue from the rubber
- I put 1 layer glue on the rubber and let it dry
- I put 1 layer Booster on the rubber and let it sink in for the next day
- I put 1 layer glue on the rubber and 1 layer onthe blade
- Then stick them together and be happy with new carbon blade

yes,
 
If your rubber reverse domes (where top sheet is bigger than sponge), then use 2 layers of booster.
So you say, a reverse dome means, the booster is (mainly) gone?

I yesterday had to re-glue a H3 BS, that was boosted 10 weeks ago. Almost impossible to put glue because of the reverse dome. Another thing I realized, the glue (Revolution No. 3) was greasy, so apparently a mixture of booster (Falco long) and glue, right? Of course, the result was awful. :mad:
 
says Table tennis clown
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So you say, a reverse dome means, the booster is (mainly) gone?

I yesterday had to re-glue a H3 BS, that was boosted 10 weeks ago. Almost impossible to put glue because of the reverse dome. Another thing I realized, the glue (Revolution No. 3) was greasy, so apparently a mixture of booster (Falco long) and glue, right? Of course, the result was awful. :mad:
Booster needs to be applied in thin layers, not a whole flood of it.
8 to 10 hours drying time between application and at least 24hrs drying time for the last layer.

Reverse dome can be "corrected" in minutes by application of 1 or 2 layers of the "olde speed glue". Dries in minutes and you can watch the rubber go flat.
Then proceed as usual.
 
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Booster needs to be applied in thin layers, not a whole flood of it.
8 to 10 hours drying time between application and at least 24hrs drying time for the last layer.

Reverse dome can be "corrected" in minutes by application of 1 or 2 layers of the "olde speed glue". Dries in minutes and you can watch the rubber go flat.
Then proceed as usual.
I'm aware of the needs with boosting. My seller told me, sometimes the Falco long is the problem.

@ Reverse dome: are you talking about the old voc-glue or really the speed glue, which was more special, if I remember right.
 
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these rubbers are pre boosted already
Euro is pretty soft, I don't recommend boosting too soft of rubbers, as it will get softer.
If you do want to boost, 1 layer is enough. I would put 1 layer of glue on sponge first though.

or if the rubber is old and lost a bit of kick in it, then a layer can bring some life back. again, a layer of glue first
Why one layer of glue on, say, Xiom Vega Europe, and let it dry, before putting on a layer of booster?
 
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Why one layer of glue on, say, Xiom Vega Europe, and let it dry, before putting on a layer of booster?
correct, so booster don't go straight into the topsheet.
I would how ever not boost such soft rubber, unless the rubbers has strunk and you need to expand it (which I have taught many coaches working with kids who can't change rubbers often, on how to do this)
 
says Table tennis clown
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Why one layer of glue on, say, Xiom Vega Europe, and let it dry, before putting on a layer of booster?
I always regarded this as a kind of harebrained idea.
If the layer of glue is stopping the booster going through to the top , it will also stop the booster going to the sponge ----well, we know it is not doing this.
If one follows the simple rule to apply only thin layers of booster and avoid flooding the sponge with the stuff every thing is okeydokey.
 
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I always regarded this as a kind of harebrained idea.
If the layer of glue is stopping the booster going through to the top , it will also stop the booster going to the sponge ----well, we know it is not doing this.
If one follows the simple rule to apply only thin layers of booster and avoid flooding the sponge with the stuff every thing is okeydokey.

I try to spread the booster very evenly. This is easy with dense sponge, but even there I prefer to apply thin layer and spread quick and well - you can observe the booster gets in quickly. With bubbly sponge, on the other hand, it is easy to spread non-evenly. I believe that is the main reason why Tony recommends to put a layer of glue first - because it is then simply easier to spread evenly and right amount. However it is not impossible to spread evenly without the glue, so if it works for you, fine and good. At the same time, I really do not think it is harebrained idea.

Boosting is such a grateful topic, isn't it @Der_Echte ?
 
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