Is it necessary to glue the blade and rubber?

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I normally only glue the blade and just stick on the rubber, but is it actually necessary to glue the rubber as well?

I notice that sometimes the rubber visibly sticks onto the blade and I don't see any air holes or detachment, but when I bounce the ball there is a weird "dead" feeling. It feels like the rubber isn't actually attached to the blade when it visibly appears to be.

Do rubbers actually perform differently if you glue both the rubber and the blade?
 
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I normally only glue the blade and just stick on the rubber, but is it actually necessary to glue the rubber as well?

I notice that sometimes the rubber visibly sticks onto the blade and I don't see any air holes or detachment, but when I bounce the ball there is a weird "dead" feeling. It feels like the rubber isn't actually attached to the blade when it visibly appears to be.

Do rubbers actually perform differently if you glue both the rubber and the blade?

Welp. Most wtb glues are contact glues. They love each other the most. All official (made by manufacturers) guides were using glue on both surfaces. I suggest doing the same.

 
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Welp. Most wtb glues are contact glues. They love each other the most. All official (made by manufacturers) guides were using glue on both surfaces. I suggest doing the same.

I think some rubbers come with a premade glue layer on it though. I would probably still put on another glue layer

 
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I highly suggest putting another layer over yinhe pre glued sheets. They are way too strong.

I've used a lot of Yinhe rubbers (and some others) with the factory glue layer and always glue just the blade. I've never had any problems. Actually wish all rubbers came that way, so convenient. I also use the same method when boosting over old glue. Just glue the blade and stick. But either way, I have glue on both blade and rubber.

 
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I didn't put any glue on H3 Neo rubber that already has factory glue layer on it. Just on the blade.
Is the second layer of glue needed?
 
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The "glue layer" on the rubber is not glue, but booster.
You still need to add glue to those rubbers.

Depending what type of glue you use, you may need 1 to 2 layers min.
I think 2 is a good guideline and with 1 layer on the blade.

Booster does not form a layer on the sponge. As it dries out it completely disappears.
The glue -layers crudely applied over the boosted sponges is likely there to avoid the
booster effect to wear off while the rubbers are on the shelves in shops, the vacuum packaging is there for the same reason.
Otherwise i agree with you : 1 layer on the blade and 2 on the rubber

 
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The "glue layer" on the rubber is not glue, but booster.
You still need to add glue to those rubbers.

Depending what type of glue you use, you may need 1 to 2 layers min.
I think 2 is a good guideline and with 1 layer on the blade.

That layer is sticky as any glue, it can't be booster, oils are not sticky, right? It is some sort of glue.
​​​​​​
 
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Booster does not form a layer on the sponge. As it dries out it completely disappears.
The glue -layers crudely applied over the boosted sponges is likely there to avoid the
booster effect to wear off while the rubbers are on the shelves in shops, the vacuum packaging is there for the same reason.
Otherwise i agree with you : 1 layer on the blade and 2 on the rubber

Trust me, that is booster (or booster + glue) that you see on there.
That layer is not strong enough to be used as glue and too weak of a layer of booster for any one serious to use (most just remove it and add they own layers)

Manufactures don't have time to add boosters then add glue (while waiting for both to dry on the production line)
they add one layer on and that is booster (with some glue mixed to it)
For those that don't know, you also get commercial booster/glue available - of which you need to use like 2 to 4 layers minimum (if you not going to use glue)

I had clients that thought it was glue, so only glued the blade. And he asks me why the rubber doesn't stick.
Even the manufacture that add those "sticky" layer on, they still tell you to glue the rubber too.

The only people that has proper glue is Xiom with its - iswitch

 
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Trust me, that is booster (or booster + glue) that you see on there.
That layer is not strong enough to be used as glue and too weak of a layer of booster for any one serious to use (most just remove it and add they own layers)

Manufactures don't have time to add boosters then add glue (while waiting for both to dry on the production line)
they add one layer on and that is booster (with some glue mixed to it)
For those that don't know, you also get commercial booster/glue available - of which you need to use like 2 to 4 layers minimum (if you not going to use glue)

I had clients that thought it was glue, so only glued the blade. And he asks me why the rubber doesn't stick.
Even the manufacture that add those "sticky" layer on, they still tell you to glue the rubber too.

The only people that has proper glue is Xiom with its - iswitch

welp. I have opposite experience. Yinhe booster-glue torn my limba on Donic Appelgren. That particular example I would not call exactly weak.

 
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Trust me, that is booster (or booster + glue) that you see on there.
That layer is not strong enough to be used as glue and too weak of a layer of booster for any one serious to use (most just remove it and add they own layers)

Manufactures don't have time to add boosters then add glue (while waiting for both to dry on the production line)
they add one layer on and that is booster (with some glue mixed to it)
For those that don't know, you also get commercial booster/glue available - of which you need to use like 2 to 4 layers minimum (if you not going to use glue)

I had clients that thought it was glue, so only glued the blade. And he asks me why the rubber doesn't stick.
Even the manufacture that add those "sticky" layer on, they still tell you to glue the rubber too.

The only people that has proper glue is Xiom with its - iswitch

I did exactly that and haven't had any issues. H3 Neo 37 fresh out of the package without any glue added on the rubber, only 1 glue layer on the blade.
It's been 6 months since and min 100 hours of play and no issues at all.
 
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When I put together a paddle for someone else that I know will not change the rubbers, I put two coats on the blade and on the rubber. I wait for the rubber cement to dry thoroughly before applying the second coat. I then wait for the rubber cement to dry thoroughly again before applying the rubber to the blade and cutting it. The rubber is firmly stuck on the blade. The rubber cement must be dry before attaching the the blade so the rubber shrinks before cutting and not after.

Since I change rubbers a lot, or use to, I only put rubber cement on the blade if the rubber sponge already has a layer or two of rubber cement on it.

I try to put extra rubber cement where on the FH side that will make contact with the table while pushing. I try to keep the FH rubber from peeling off.
 
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Hurricane 3 Neo: The Neo sponges are DHS' answer to the ban of the speed glue and the plastic ball. The topsheet should be the same as for the classic H3 and is just as tacky. The rubbers come boosted/tuned and with a layer of glue already applied from the factory. You only need to apply glue on the blade side, no additional glue is needed on the sponge.

Source: DHS Hurricane 3 Ultimate Thread from other forum
 
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Hurricane 3 Neo: The Neo sponges are DHS' answer to the ban of the speed glue and the plastic ball. The topsheet should be the same as for the classic H3 and is just as tacky. The rubbers come boosted/tuned and with a layer of glue already applied from the factory. You only need to apply glue on the blade side, no additional glue is needed on the sponge.

Source: DHS Hurricane 3 Ultimate Thread from other forum

I can tell you, that Ultimate thread is not any where close to being ultimate

 
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